In my 01 Sport Cummins HO 6 speed 4x4, I have 3.55 gears, 295/70R18 tires, 4" full exhaust system (no muffler), stock HX35, AFE intake horn, older EJWA, S & B air filter setup, Industrial Injection HO VP, and Airdog 165 LP/filtration system, stock HO injectors. I do have DAP 100 HP injectors to put back into it when I receive them back from DAP. They are new but I sent them back and they found that two of them were at 302-303 bar instead of 310-312 bar, which was causing my idle to be a little bit lopey like a muscle car camshaft.

 

In 6th gear on cruise control running 60 mph, my EGTs are running around 650 - 715. Is that normal or high?

 

I don't remember my 99 Cummins 4x4 with a 47RE but with the same like other performance mods, running that high of EGT at 60 mph.

 

The question I have is: go to 5" full exhaust, or can I control it better by removing the EJWA and installing a Quadzilla Adrenaline with tunes?

 

for your setups that's about right I think.  

 

The quad will give you better control, but it takes some effort on your part to figure out what tune works for you.  with some more timing at your cruise speed you might drop egt's some, but I dont think there is a lot to gain.

Would I lose more temps going from a 4" to 5" exhaust system, vs a different tuner?

1 hour ago, 99_Cummins_4x4 said:

Would I lose more temps going from a 4" to 5" exhaust system, vs a different tuner?

 

 

What level on the Juice are you running? 5" exhaust will not help, you are not producing much flow at 60 mph is 6th. With your gear and tires, 60 in 6th is almost lugging. Try 65 in 6th or 55 in 5th and see. 650-700 is not high.

Did your auto have the same tires on it?

More power always means more heat. Doesnt matter what programmer turbo or injectors.

You can likely tune quad to runn cooler but im undecided if it's worth messing with until the truck can mechanicly manage the heat produced from more power

 

600-750 is perfectly normal running lower rpm with bigger tires.

I'd be surprised to see Temps drop by switching to a quad.

 

My truck runs similar cruising Temps but at about 1800rpm. But I can't really compare because I have 7x009 injectors 62 turbo and smarty.

I will acasionaly see 800 with cruise on pulling a semi steeper flat grade if that makes since.

 

I saw Temps drop 100ish going from 4-5. Not sure thats really worth the expense and time. With the bigger turbo my max temp pedal on the floor pulling a grade with a trailer im 1100ish. If I lugged on it or pulled the ground slower I'd probly be above 1200. I like to pull grades at 2000-2200 were shes moving some air removing the heat.

 

Good luck and have fun with it.

9 hours ago, NIsaacs said:

 

 

What level on the Juice are you running? 5" exhaust will not help, you are not producing much flow at 60 mph is 6th. With your gear and tires, 60 in 6th is almost lugging. Try 65 in 6th or 55 in 5th and see. 650-700 is not high.

I'm running the EJWA on level 3. At 60 mph in 6th gear my rpm is 1,500 - 1,600.

 

My auto trans pickup had 295/75R16 tires on it with 3.55 gears.

 

 

Thats lugging it  id be hazing pretty black at that rpm. 

Yep that is pretty low rpm at 60. Mine runs about 1800 at 60. I do have smaller tires though. But as others have mentioned you are not in a danger zone on EGT's.

Just for Info...

 

245/75 R16 (30.5 Inch tires) at 66 MPH I'm prefect 2,000 RPM's making my final ratio 3.69:1 and hover about 550*F EGT's with boost at 2 to 3 PSI tops in 5th gear (0.75:1). Even at 2,500 RPM at 82 MPH I'm still like 650 to 700*F EGT's.

 

Tuner can help but final ratio helps better. Being with your 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears makes the final ratio 3.21 which is to tall geared hence your EGT's rising because of gearing loads. You would benefit with a gear swap either 3.73 or 4.10. 

Probly not worth the expense to do gears or buy tires when you can just grab the stick or push the throttle further down

 

 

Hence why I end up with the vehicles with massive front end damage, steering box is trashed and possibly a melted piston. More common than you think, because of this exact thinking. Instead of doing it right people want quick fix to make there truck look cool but then skip all the stuff to make it right. Proper gear ratio, proper caster adjustment, thrust angle adjustment, etc. Wonder why steering sucks on these trucks or got overheating issues or high EGT's... 

Edited January 28, 20214 yr by Mopar1973Man

On 1/28/2021 at 6:47 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

people want quick fix to make there truck look cool

I must say these trucks do look good on 35s, especially the long beds. That said, I'm rolling on 30.5" tires. 41 years old, two kids under five. My cool days, if I ever had any, are behind me!

8 hours ago, LorenS said:

I must say these trucks do look good on 35s, especially the long beds. That said, I'm rolling on 30.5" tires. 41 years old, two kids under five. My cool days, if I ever had any, are behind me!

 

Agree... They do look good on 35 inch tires but rarely does anyone do the modification right.

 

I'll give away a street racing secret. Take a truck like mine where the ratio is correct and sitting on 245's. (3.69:1 final ratio) Now go to big city and find a truck jack up with 35" to 37" tires (3.20 to 3.00 final ratio) and egg him on to race. The other truck ratio is too tall and they struggle to keep up with me. This typically because EGT's jump high really quick for them.  Not to mention being high up in the air wind drag is a huge factor I've got less drag. I usually pull a good truck length on them. Being I've got all my low end power I can walk away and gain my lead right out of the hole. 

 

99% of the time all they done was pull the stock wheels off and up sized to there new tire. Then added a leveling kit. No  readjustment of thrust angle or caster angle. Then whine about how bad it steers now. Then complain about poor MPG, steering and suspension issues. Just like the 2005 sitting in my yard that @Blue-Top Steering just rebuilt the steering box and its on its way back. Now if was done right with adjustable track bar, adjustable lower control arms, then re-gear the tire for your tire size and reprogram the computer for revs per miles. But alas 99% of the time just wheel swap and hope for the best. 

 

Why not ask why I know how to rebuild 1960's to current sagnaw steering boxes? Because my first truck 1972 Dodge Power Wagon I done just like all you change the wheels and tires and went up a size. Ended up adding more stress for the steering box and was constantly rebuilding them even in my younger years for friends around me that drove Chevy's and Dodge's. Hence why I made the promise to my parent when I bought the 2002 I would never lift and run over sized tires. RIP Mom and Dad but I kept my promise. On that 1972 Dodge I broke wheel joints a bunch. Then wore out ball joints like candy. Steering boxes always leaked. Axle bearing failed more after the wheel and tire change which made me monthly task of repacking the bearings. 

 

Since I've never done all the lift and oversized tires to my current truck... I've never had any of the steering issues you boys do... 

Edited February 3, 20214 yr by Mopar1973Man

So you did ball joints on 2 trucks with big tires

9 hours ago, Evan said:

So you did ball joints on 2 trucks with big tires

 

I pass them down the line... I really don't like doing them at all. I know way of doing them easier but I still don't want the mess and headache of fighting someone rusted out ball joints on a oversize tire truck.

 

As for my own truck my current ball joints have 248k miles and still good. All I can say is stock sized tires don't have the issues of big tire trucks. 

I just wish I didn't listen to some stories about how you can't have any travel up and down on lower joint but you can on upper, my original joints had about 16th of an inch up and down upper and lower, so I was like ok lowers are going out. So after I changed them with new I had exactly same travel  oh well they are new now. I still think about how can you possibly check upper without moving the lower without disconnecting the whole assembly  so there's that. For all I know I didn't had to change them for another 100 or 200k hey they have anti-seize on them now  same with axle joints on front I changed them because they we're right there when doing ball joints, looked rusty and old but when I got them apart like new inside, so that was a waste too, my own stupidity on that part. On the other hand changing my Y style steering to T was one of the best things I've done, Y wasn't bad yet but it made a nice improvement in how it acted.

I'm not worried about the up and down movement. Its the side to side movement I worry about being once that happened now the camber is being lost. Up and down isn't going to change geometry much but if it can change the camber angle then it needs to be addressed. Like my truck has vertical movement in the ball joints but the alignment is spot on and tires are wearing flat. Why dig in and change ball joint because it sliding up and down the upper ball joint which is a straight shaft. Where the bottom is a actual ball joint. As long as neither ball joint has the ability to lean inwards (negative or positive camber) there is no need to change.