I am not understanding why it is favorable to drill under the fuel module basket as I have read? Do the tanks have any walls/ baffles in the smooth flat area closer to the front strap? Does everyone like the Beans sump ?

 

Thanks

My suggestion, don't drill for sump.

 

So far I know of two people that have drilled for the sump and ended up hunting bone yards for a new fuel tank. Best not to drill or add any sump. I've been using a draw straw (outside the basket) for years. Just remember once you make a mistake of drilling or cutting into your fuel tank bottom there is no fixing after that! 

3 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

My suggestion, don't drill for sump.

 

So far I know of two people that have drilled for the sump and ended up hunting bone yards for a new fuel tank. Best not to drill or add any sump. I've been using a draw straw (outside the basket) for years. Just remember once you make a mistake of drilling or cutting into your fuel tank bottom there is no fixing after that! 

Plus it is illegal to do the sump, needs to have a way to stop flowing if a fire starts in a wreck.

We have menbers here that have. But me personally I would not do it  for the above reasons. Impull the fuel from and it will drain the tank. Has worked fine for the 10 years since install of the AD.

 

To answer your question, there are not baffles of any kind in my tank. Open from one end to the other. As far as I know all the 2nd gens are that way.

Edited June 19, 20213 yr by dripley

Ok sounds like I am dropping the tank. I appreciate the information 

20 minutes ago, Dmaxgpe said:

Ok sounds like I am dropping the tank. I appreciate the information 

Just to be sure I edited my post to say there NO baffles in my tank. Left that important word out.

1 hour ago, dripley said:

Just to be sure I edited my post to say there NO baffles in my tank. Left that important word out.

 

I am glad you edited your post because I was baffled.

 

- John

DAP draw straw  job done...... confusing to me why you call it a draw straw, I put a straw into a drink or I did, I'm too old to drink out of a straw, my grandkids use a straw

tank suction, fuel tank suction tube, tank stand pipe, fuel suction line  

I will check out the DAP draw straw. If I am dropping the tank it makes me wonder if i should just get the Fleece kit ? I have had great luck with the Air Dog 100 on a previous 2nd gen but it was installed into the stock fuel module ports. I understand that you cannot use the 165 kit with the small feed and return used on the stock module. I also looked at the module mod kit that comes with the AD. Looks fairly straight forward. My truck has the block mounted lift pump vs updated conversion.

 

Thanks!

Just now, Dmaxgpe said:

I will check out the DAP draw straw. If I am dropping the tank it makes me wonder if i should just get the Fleece kit ? I have had great luck with the Air Dog 100 on a previous 2nd gen but it was installed into the stock fuel module ports. I understand that you cannot use the 165 kit with the small feed and return used on the stock module. I also looked at the module mod kit that comes with the AD. Looks fairly straight forward. My truck has the block mounted lift pump vs updated conversion.

 

Thanks!

Me personally I wouldn't use any kind of electric lift pump, my truck has a mechanical lift pump driven off of the crank pulley, I'll not say I've not had some concerns with it BUT I use a Caterpillar filter head and filter to 3 microns

If a DTT or similar mechanical pump has a belt on it it pumps fuel end of, if the crank turns, no Dodge joker electrics involved, doesn't matter about the ECM, PCM  or any other POS electrical junk engine turns it will pump

15 minutes ago, wil440 said:

Me personally I wouldn't use any kind of electric lift pump, my truck has a mechanical lift pump driven off of the crank pulley, I'll not say I've not had some concerns with it BUT I use a Caterpillar filter head and filter to 3 microns

If a DTT or similar mechanical pump has a belt on it it pumps fuel end of, if the crank turns, no Dodge joker electrics involved, doesn't matter about the ECM, PCM  or any other POS electrical junk engine turns it will pump

'Pump Iives Matter'            right wil440 ! 

Edited June 20, 20213 yr by JAG1

1 minute ago, JAG1 said:

'Pump Iives Matter', right wil440 ! 

Careful with that but 

A mechanical pump sure sounds good to me, but availability is more important to me. Having the electric fuel pump on the frame, it can die in the middle of nowhere and I can find a pump at any parts store in America that will work to at least get me home. A few months ago, no one I could find had mechanical pumps in stock. And if for some reason a guy wants a Fluidampr, I believe that rules out the mechanical pumps.

With the electric pump on a relay instead of directly powered through the ECM, I don't expect any issues.

I definitely would use a mechanical pump if availability was better, or cheap enough to carry a spare.

1 minute ago, LorenS said:

A mechanical pump sure sounds good to me, but availability is more important to me. Having the electric fuel pump on the frame, it can die in the middle of nowhere and I can find a pump at any parts store in America that will work to at least get me home. A few months ago, no one I could find had mechanical pumps in stock. And if for some reason a guy wants a Fluidampr, I believe that rules out the mechanical pumps.

With the electric pump on a relay instead of directly powered through the ECM, I don't expect any issues.

I definitely would use a mechanical pump if availability was better, or cheap enough to carry a spare.

Only spare you need is a belt and if you want to be belt(scuse the pun) and braces a front seal and Fluid damper.... hands up how many have that

I remember asking about a Predator pump from PDD and they told me it was discontinued due to failures? I see GDP has something similar that has been out awhile. I like the idea of mechanical too. What is the best most proven mechanical option?

17 minutes ago, Dmaxgpe said:

I remember asking about a Predator pump from PDD and they told me it was discontinued due to failures? I see GDP has something similar that has been out awhile. I like the idea of mechanical too. What is the best most proven mechanical option?

 

17 minutes ago, Dmaxgpe said:

I remember asking about a Predator pump from PDD and they told me it was discontinued due to failures? I see GDP has something similar that has been out awhile. I like the idea of mechanical too. What is the best most proven mechanical option?

speak to @dieselautopower there is no best proven as if the belt is on it pumps no matter what pump made by who, mine is DTT just because everyone said they were bad and I just don't follow the herd, as said my filter is a Caterpillar head and filter to 3 micron, there are several threads on here about fuel pressure mine is around 7psi ish at idle to 25psi at it's highest , might be more but I don't bounce valves, 2200 is my max, my fuel temps are low, highest was a week or so ago at 112F towing heavy in tiny roads/villages

I've been doing okay with my latest version Raptor 150's. Both my 2nd gens got them about the same time. The work truck Daily driver has 50 k on the lift pump now showing no signs of weakness. I like them okay. Biggest problems were the isolator leaking and inaccuracy of a F/P gauge that wasn't an Isspro gauge.

 

@IBMobile had a problem with his mechanical Lift Pump after a couple years but, can't remember what caused it. Hoping he adds to the conversation about that.

The fuel system on these is exactly why I started learning about these and found this website.  I had no reason to learn anything about 2nd gen's other than to check the oil cuz they last forever right?  In our RV travels about two thousand miles from home the 11-year old Fass pump broke.  In Yuma Arizona there's not much to choose from,  the dealer said it'd be 2 weeks to get in and when I said it's got a Fass pump on.  They said. OUR dealership only puts on OEM or back to OEM.  And two Mom and Pop places that were commended could not get service for about a week.  So one place said pump was good but I needed a different type of sucking straw.  Have to order one "over night from Phoenix"  arrived UPS by truck. Lots of " Air Freight prices" total rip!  Broke down an hour and a half from Yuma.  Big towing Bill back to Yuma too the second shop.  Second Shop says oh you need a sump,  but pump is working good.  About an hour and a half outside of Yuma no fuel.  Another big Towing bill.  Spoke with the FASS people.  Decided just to put on a new pump.  Second Shop couldn't put on a Fass pump because he couldn't read the directions in English.  But his brother 30 miles away has installed air dog pumps before and translated.  So the decision of airdog or FASS didn't come down to the pump came down to read the directions in English.  So then about an hour and a half outside of Yuma, discover that the sump was leaking.  Drove from Yuma to Seattle changing diapers and bailing wire on the sump about every 75 MI.  

Then Between this website and Vulcan diesel came up with what I think is robust system in my opinion.  Pump mounted up in back of the cab,  all 1/2 line.  Shut off valves to swap out pump for a cheap carter pump.  Carry it under back seat, takes two crescent wrenches and 15 min to change out. 

Found replacement tank after a lot of looking.  

So now after about 2 grand of learning experiance at least I know something  about the fuel system.

Next step is the elec on these wonderful things.  

 

Another choice I had the fun to install was a fleece lift pump. replaces factory and will use factory lines if you want, but you can route 1/2” lines if you want. 
been good so about 8k now and climbing, the person I installed it for seems happy with it so far. And he’s not exactly gentle on the truck either, it’s a farm truck and travels from Michigan to Tennessee a few times a year.

Great to know. I really like the look of the Fleece kit. 

 

Thanks again guys for all the info!