I got the quick connect w/ the big line kit. But it only goes to the filter. So from the filter to the VP44 is the stck line. Does anyone make a big line kit that goes the rest of the way. it doesn't have to be a quick connect. I have a standard cab & the connections were a pain in the neck to find a place to make work. Sort of looks rigged the way I have it. I'll see if I can post some pix!Thnx, Dave

http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffip.htm

I had my AD150 installed... besides the AD filter & separator I kept the OEM filter, just replaced the element with better. I used oversized fittings from Vulcan throughout & used 1/2 lines all the way to the VP44. It is a relief to get it done.

I'm also running stock fuel filter housing with fleetguard filter against my AirDog 150 system. Now I'll tell you its been great because the stock filter captures all the little bit of debris that sneaks pass the AirDog filter. I figure about every 50-70K miles the stock filter needs to be changed. But as for fuel pressure I typically idle at 17 PSI and at WOT 55-80 MPH I can barely pull down to 15 PSI. So no the stock filter will not hamper the performance.

Hey you just as well buy a few extra fittings and a another 20 inches of hose and go from your fuel filter housing to your VP it is worth it.

Hey you just as well buy a few extra fittings and a another 20 inches of hose and go from your fuel filter housing to your VP it is worth it.

Yes Sir, that's what I want to do! I'm running a low pressuse warning light off of the VP44 is the only thing I'm not sure of unless I can run it off the other port off of the fuel canister. Does it matter where the low pressure light is? I would think that the same pressure would be on top of the canister or a foot or so down the line on the VP44. Might even save the sensor by not getting hammered by the IP. Thanks for your replies guys, Dave

You need a fuel pressure gauge instead of a warning light! All a warning light is going to do is to tell you that you WILL be buying a injection pump. A pressure gauge will help you prevent you from buying a pump. Usually a light comes on at 5 psi (the damage is done at this point) and the pump needs a minimum 10 psi to operate. Most of us are running between 14 and 20 psi.

Like my Cummins low pressure light comes on at 3 PSI... But I'm running 15-17 PSI on the gauge when I see 14 PSI its time for a filter change...

When I ordered the parts from Vulcan, I ordered a tapped elbow which screws into the VP44. It is suggested to use a grease pump hose to connect to a "needle valve" which is mostly close to damp the pressure pulses which are hard on gauges & sensors which are attached next.

Grease gun hose not needed... I'm tapped right into the line with the needle valve and adjust accordingly... I personal don't think a grease gun hose is damping the pulses being a grease gun hose is rated for hundreds of pounds of pressure without swelling. The vulcan line is not rated that high and it doesn't dampen the pulses... But now a small orifice like a snubber or a needle valve actually stop the pulses. The old myth was the engine vibration caused sender failures on the electric gauges... Not true it was the fact they place the sender directly at the VP44 (source of the water hammer) and no protection (snubber or needle valve).Working for the last 7 years!

 

Edited February 11, 20223 yr by Mopar1973Man

Well I had trouble with my electric sender until I installed a grease gun hose.

I don't think the grease gun hose would dampen pulses, just a cheap "pre-made" way of geting a strong hose. I always thought it was to isolate the sending unit from the engine vibrations.

You need a fuel pressure gauge instead of a warning light! All a warning light is going to do is to tell you that you WILL be buying a injection pump. A pressure gauge will help you prevent you from buying a pump. Usually a light comes on at 5 psi (the damage is done at this point) and the pump needs a minimum 10 psi to operate. Most of us are running between 14 and 20 psi.

I'm running both. Low pres on vp44 & Gauge off of the top of my 98 stock fuel can. At idle I have 17psi or so & at 55 I have 15psi. I was a little concerned about having to put a switch on the +hot line, I read that some guys were having issues w/ startup pres on the vp44's diaphram, but not the case w me. Maybe only a half a crank more if I need usethe grid but starts just as soon as i touch the key. Better than any gasser or anything eles I've ever had 13yrs old w almost 190K I think that's pretty amazing! Keep mine Cummins, Dave

what is your pressure at wot?

I don't know, I haven't done a WOT!The tech at the Chrysler garage said last year that I have a weak TQ, so I don't push my luck!I changed my fluid & filter in my trans & now it sometimes slips between 2&3. With hay season soon to be here & a Canada vacation, easy does it for me for now. Someone is going to do a 47 rebuild & post it all, that will help me big time!Dave

What's a WOT?

What's a WOT?

Wide Open Throttle...Floored

i've still been putting off making a big line kit between my fuel filter and vp...and still have my electronic pressure sensor straight onto the vpit bounces around somewhat but still works (or seems to?) :banghead: think possibly that my stock line between the filter and vp is restricting the fuel enough so that even though im reading 15 psi its actually not getting enough fuel into the vp to really be safe?

yes it is a restriction and with your pressure gauge bouncing around it would bring into question the accuracy of the gauge. the IP will beat a gauge or sending unit to death if you dont isolate it from the water hammer effect it produces.

yea i should have done something about it a long time ago i guess i should get on that asap