I know this has been hashed about before but I gotta ask. I'm thinking about a set of RV275's for my mostly stock '02 with 118,000 miles, see other stuff in my signature. I do haul a pretty heavy camper and tow a boat. The truck has a Quad ZXT+ chip thingy (pretty mild by most standards). My question is...amd I just wasting my $'s or will I see a REAL difference?Second question: Can I install them myself? I not a total idiot with a wrench and can follow directions. I was thinking it's also about time to adjust the valves too. Thanks to all for opinions.

you would not be wasteing your money .the rv275 is a nice upgrade they work really well for both power and mpg increases you would be very happy with them.if you are no stranger to a tool box you should have no problem changing them /doing your valves

if you can adjust the valves, changing the injectors i think would be easier.just got to folow the steps, mainly when putting it all back together, drop in the injectors but dont lock em down then insert injector tubes then install injector lines and get them sorta fully tight then lock down the injectors, then tighten the injector lines down. You will get leaks any other way. While you have the injector tubes out replace the orings (dont lube them), clean the mating surfaces with green scotchbrite pads and replace the banjo bolt sealing washer on the back of the head (sooner or later it will dry up rock hard and leak)when you are done you will need to reprime. crack injector lines 1,3,4 on the head and start turning it over it will hit and miss or just start right up and run rough till you lock down those lines. takes about 5 minutes. then clean up the bit of fuel that spit out. wear glasses or goggles if you have someone turn the key while you are over the engine.

I just installed a set of RV's in mine and picked up a nice power increase. I had some fuel leaks from the head and the rear banjo bolt cummins spoke of. even with the leaks i pickup abotu1.4 mpg. Just got all the leaks fixed and dont yet know what true mpg I picked up, but it can only get better.This was the first time I had ever seen an injector, but the install is very straight forward and simple to do. Just follow whatMr. Cummins said and you will be happy you put them in.

where to get orings and banjo seal thingy?

I got o-rings from cummins but they are a couple bucks a piece. I have heard of someone matching them up at a hardware store or something and being just a few pennies each.

I know this has been hashed about before but I gotta ask. I'm thinking about a set of RV275's for my mostly stock '02 with 118,000 miles, see other stuff in my signature. I do haul a pretty heavy camper and tow a boat. The truck has a Quad ZXT+ chip thingy (pretty mild by most standards). My question is...amd I just wasting my $'s or will I see a REAL difference? Second question: Can I install them myself? I not a total idiot with a wrench and can follow directions. I was thinking it's also about time to adjust the valves too. Thanks to all for opinions.

you would not be wasteing your money .the rv275 is a nice upgrade they work really well for both power and mpg increases you would be very happy with them. if you are no stranger to a tool box you should have no problem changing them /doing your valves

TH Racing is right RV275 is a really good mild injector... I'm running RV275's and Edge Comp as well... EGT's are in check no problems with EGT's with towing either. As for doing both projects... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/61-injectors-removal and http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/121-valve-lash-adjustment

Thanks to all. You've convinced me that these are my next "projects". I looked at my 2001 Shop Manual CD and the instructions given are Spot On. Good info for me. I'm not unsure of working on a Model A Ford but a CTD is another animal. Thanks again and now on with the work.

I concur with everybody else. Have them and think they are worth while investment.

i went a step above the 275's and got 60HP injectors, they give you a real 275HP, over the 40 or so you see with the RV 275's. as for install and removal of injectors see my write up guide here http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/255-24v-injector-install-video it includes videos and everything.

i went a step above the 275's and got 60HP injectors, they give you a real 275HP, over the 40 or so you see with the RV 275's. as for install and removal of injectors see my write up guide here http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/25-fuel-system/255-24v-injector-install-video it includes videos and everything.

So how do you like the 60 hp injectors? Any mpg improvements like the guys see with the 275's? i'd like to go as big as I can with my stock turbo and still not have egt problems.

I would go with 7x.009 or roughly 100 hp. You should be fine with these, My first injector upgrade was 75hp and I could hardly tell a difference and it turns out I already had some kind of upgrade injectors maybe 50 or 75hp. The next week I jumped to 150hp and could definatly tell a difference then but my mileage still suffered. Now im running some 7x.010 built by Lee at Contagious Diesel and they are great. My mileage is the best its ever been and plenty of power. http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Contagious-Diesel-Performance/147994165231032

So how do you like the 60 hp injectors? Any mpg improvements like the guys see with the 275's? i'd like to go as big as I can with my stock turbo and still not have egt problems.

i like them alot, you do feel the difference, and with the edge comp you will be maxed out on your turbo. i went with 60's over 75's because i never planned to upgrade the turbo, but if your going to swap to a HX 40/35 then 75's or 100's would be good too. The most you want to go with a stock turbo (and your maybe a HY-35(not HX-35) then i wouldn't go much over 60-75HP because of EGT's. you must factor in the other things (so 215HP, 60HP+60HP is 33.5), meaning you need to run 34psi of boost, but if yours is a HY-35 then your the 235 pump which puts you right at the max for your Turbo which is 35.5psi. MPG wise i saw about 2-2.5 mpg gain, better low end response and the turbo lights quicker.

I would go with 7x.009 or roughly 100 hp. You should be fine with these, My first injector upgrade was 75hp and I could hardly tell a difference and it turns out I already had some kind of upgrade injectors maybe 50 or 75hp. The next week I jumped to 150hp and could definatly tell a difference then but my mileage still suffered. Now im running some 7x.010 built by Lee at Contagious Diesel and they are great. My mileage is the best its ever been and plenty of power. http://www.facebook.com/home.php#!/pages/Contagious-Diesel-Performance/147994165231032

He has to be careful because he is a 200, were not sure if he is a HX or HY turbo, if he i a HY then he will be maxed out with 60's.

I was thinking it was for the op with a 5speed truck.

I have the HX turbo. Pepsiocean could you please explain your calculation figuring out the boost requirements? Thanks for the help, I feel pretty dumb when it comes to the turbo/injector aspect of my truck:duh:

I have the HX turbo. Pepsiocean could you please explain your calculation figuring out the boost requirements? Thanks for the help, I feel pretty dumb when it comes to the turbo/injector aspect of my truck:duh:

the rule of thumb is that for every 10 HP you require 1 psi of boost, now of course the engine will draw what it needs on its own, but that is rule of thumb. it is a close calculation as running a larger turbo will mean more CFM thus lower boost numbers, a HX40/35 will run the same cfm running 3-4psi less. So when your buddy says i have 500 HP and you say what is your boost, and he says 30psi you know he is full of ____. In order to really see any use out of the 60HP injectors you need a boost elbow, adjusted to 30psi. why? because now your allowing the engine to grab what it needs to be happy. The example.. Your engine is 215HP pump, add your 60HP injectors and you now have 275HP, but your still only running about 225hp because your waste gate will only let you build about 22psi of boost. adjust it with a boost elbow and you will have your 275HP because you can hit the loose estimation of 27.5psi. Now add a smarty (another 60HP), and you went from 275 to 335 HP, convert over to 33.5 and you are now almost to the ceiling of the HX-35 turbo. Now to skew the numbers. The smarty will add 60HP with stock injectors, add more mechanical changes and your HP level may be closer to 65-70HP(because the change in injectors can account for a variable. The reason i say stick with 60 or 75's is because if you tow and tow heavy you will find you will be around your top MAP for the HX35 turbo, especially if you have a programmer, because the programmer will allow for more fueling, and thus raise your boost requirements. Also i too planned for a VP-44 change, the SO 215 pumps no longer exist they are all 235 pumps. So for me 235+60+60 is 355, or 35.5psi meaning the HX35 is now at full capacity. Like stated above it is not an exact science but it works good for loose calculation:smart:

So for me 235+60+60 is 355, or 35.5psi meaning the HX35 is now at full capacity. Like stated above it is not an exact science but it works good for loose calculation:smart:

Last Dyno run was in 07... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results I'm at about ~400 HP now with the RV275 added... Still only seeing 35 PSI of boost... Not to turn this into dyno competitions... But I'm a odd duck when it comes to dyno numbers and boost pressures... Yes Pepsi is right the 10 HP for each 1 PSI of boost is a rule of thumb. But doesn't always hold true either. Just to let you know.

I have the HX turbo. Pepsiocean could you please explain your calculation figuring out the boost requirements? Thanks for the help, I feel pretty dumb when it comes to the turbo/injector aspect of my truck:duh:

Last Dyno run was in 07... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results I'm at about ~400 HP now with the RV275 added... Still only seeing 35 PSI of boost... Not to turn this into dyno competitions... But I'm a odd duck when it comes to dyno numbers and boost pressures... Yes Pepsi is right the 10 HP for each 1 PSI of boost is a rule of thumb. But doesn't always hold true either. Just to let you know.

like i said its a good loose calculation method. Im curious to see what mine will run on the dyno once i get the whole thing together with the smarty unlocked.

Thanks for the awesome info guys:thumb1:

so with whats in my signature your saying the rv 275 would be my best bet?:ahhh:ps i have to edit my sig its an automatic

so with whats in my signature your saying the rv 275 would be my best bet?:ahhh:ps i have to edit my sig its an automatic 1999 qcsb 4 wd auto fass 95 draw straw gauges 4in mbpr with muffler edge comp boost elbow amsoil bhaf cooper 265 75 16s

You really close to my setup...http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500