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I want to install a new draw straw and 1/2" fuel line from the tank. I'm torn between dropping the tank and lifting the bed. Understand that I work in gravel and don't have a lot of jacks/tools. I even saw a YouTube video where a guy cut a hole in his bed to gain access. That's even a consideration. Problem is that the tank unit sits right under a support bar of the bed. But a couple holes on each side of the cross member might be adequate. Having perminant access to the tank unit would be cool. But not sure I have the guts to go that way. So looking for opinions about bed tilting or tank dropping. I can invision a pully system to lower and raise the tank.

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even on my rusty truck the bed tilt was a total breeze.I tilted the bed when I did my fuel lines, but after that I sprouted a transfer tank and the toolbox gained even more crap, so it wasn't worth it to empty the bed and I dropped the tank when I did my sending unit.Unless you have a hard bed to empty, just tip it up in front. Leave the rear bolts in and loose so it doesn't slide.

2 straps and a drop are way easier and faster than messing with the box in my opinion.:2cents: Dropped many tanks over the years and probably only replaced a couple of straps that were due to be changed anyhow.

caveat: easy when the tank is empty. 30 gallons of diesel is not light.

And yet folks find ways to drop trannies and t-cases with no issues..:think: One needs to plan ahead or find a few clean containers!:wink:The mine rigs I work on hold up to 1000 gallons of fuel.

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Ok, I'll get all my supplies together and drop the tank. I think with the limited tools I have that should be easier. I bet I can figure out some kind of pully system front and rear to lower and raise. This will also allow for cleaning out the tank of any gunk. I put my hand up on the tank unit area to get an idea of room up there between the bed and tank unit. Got lots of residue up there, so something is leaking a little. I've had no drips under the truck, but its diesely dirty.

Parts list:(1) 15mm deeeep socket(1) 1/2" (or 3/8") ratchet driver & extension.(1) floor jack.(1) 2"x6"x~3' long board.I did it twice - once with an empty tank, and once with about 4 gallons in it. If a 140 lb skinny white-boy can do it, I'm sure you can. :lmao:

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Parts list: (1) 15mm deeeep socket (1) 1/2" (or 3/8") ratchet driver & extension. (1) floor jack. (1) 2"x6"x~3' long board. I did it twice - once with an empty tank, and once with about 4 gallons in it. If a 140 lb skinny white-boy can do it, I'm sure you can. :lmao:

Hey, that's helpful! Thanks! :tongue: But I'm only 97# tweeker. Well, plus a couple hundred to be honest.

Just drop it slow, so you don't bend or crimp anything you're not supposed to. If you can afford it, I highly recommend replacing your fuel gauge sending unit while you have the tank down. I didn't, because I'm cheap, and luckily it still works. (and it's pretty dern accurate) :tongue:

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Just drop it slow, so you don't bend or crimp anything you're not supposed to. If you can afford it, I highly recommend replacing your fuel gauge sending unit while you have the tank down. I didn't, because I'm cheap, and luckily it still works. (and it's pretty dern accurate) :tongue:

Mine is still really accurate. I'll see how it goes, but leaning towards not replacing it just to save money.

I have a friend with a Chevy 2500 gas rig. He used a six inch hole saw right over the sending unit of his tank, then made a cute little aluminum tread plate cover for it.. It might sound extreme but its a wonder the factory never thought of it

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I have a friend with a Chevy 2500 gas rig. He used a six inch hole saw right over the sending unit of his tank, then made a cute little aluminum tread plate cover for it.. It might sound extreme but its a wonder the factory never thought of it

I think the factory isn't much interested making it easier to work on. I'm going to make a bed access plate. I will cut the corrugated bed so that the lowest ribs are longer to hold the plate and be flush with the higher ribs. I don't care about that cross member.... I'll figure something out for that after I cut it open. I'm thinking about a sleeved cross member that slides into the existing. Just slide it out of the way inside the other.

When I had to drop my tank it was full. I used 2x4 blocking to drop it a little at a time without getting too sloshy on me.

I'm wih these guys; drop the tank. I use 2 floor jacks and a 2x12 for the tank to sit on as it's stretched across the floor jacks. This is really helpful when the tank is full. Once it's on the jacks, I just lower each one a little bit, alternating, until it's down.Same for reassembly.

I must be the oddball of the group. I will never drop the tank. The bed is like 4 bolts, the filler neck, unplug the tail lights and its off. I hate getting under the truck and battling that crap. If the cab was easier to take off I would do that to change a clutch. Plus with the bed off you can power wash everything. I don't know how much it weighs, I just use the front end loader. http://www.mopar1973man.com/isx97/Truck%20Stuff/Ryan's%20Dodge/Exterior/Fuel%20Tank/IMG_1644.JPG

While I would agree with having the access to clean every thing, mine has a 5th wheel hitch and taking it out every time would be a pain. both times I removed mine the tank only had 3 or 4 gallons in it and was easily manageable. I did not have a friend to help me with the tank or the beer. I handled both by myself quite well.

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While I would agree with having the access to clean every thing, mine has a 5th wheel hitch and taking it out every time would be a pain. both times I removed mine the tank only had 3 or 4 gallons in it and was easily manageable. I did not have a friend to help me with the tank or the beer. I handled both by myself quite well.

:lmao2::lmao:

Neither did I for the first go around. But the second go friend offered to help so he dove in. Either method you choose to use you'll get the job done. But I highly suggest you be smart and make sure you get every thing done right the first time so you not back a second time. :wink:

:lmao2::lmao: Neither did I for the first go around. But the second go friend offered to help so he dove in. Either method you choose to use you'll get the job done. But I highly suggest you be smart and make sure you get every thing done right the first time so you not back a second time. :wink:

Had I done it right the first time I would have missed out on all of that experience I gained the second time.:tease:.

Tank drop done twice here too. :whistle:

First time I did it and the second time my buddy did it while I drank beer.

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:lmao2::lmao:I love this! I can fetch a wrench with my free hand with the best of them, while not spilling a drop of Bud Light. Having a buddy like this is priceless :thumbup2:

Is your drive shaft on the floor just so you could get the tank down? :think:

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Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

We are privately owned, with access to a professional Diesel Mechanic, who can provide additional support for Dodge Ram Cummins Diesel vehicles. Many detailed information is FREE and available to read. However, in order to interact directly with our Diesel Mechanic, Michael, by phone, via zoom, or as the web-based option, Subscription Plans are offered that will enable these and other features.  Go to the Subscription Page and Select a desired plan. At any time you wish to cancel the Subscription, click Subscription Page, select the 'Cancel' button, and it will be canceled. For your convenience, all subscriptions are on auto-renewal.