Well I've made it home for the summer and it's time to start tearing this thing apart. I will begin tomorrow, but yesterday I took it to the dyno. Laid down 503 / 1215. I was very pleased with the numbers, but the knocking is getting worse to it's time to take it apart.

 

The tappets need to spin and if they don't then bad things happen.

Let it cool, adjusted valves then ran it again.

 

It's part of the break-in procedure cam. They want the initial 5 minutes at 1200-1500 rpms to ensure that the cam hardens, and then recheck the valve lash. Not enough oil pressure or rpms can kill a cam right away so it is quite important.

 

Typically additional ZDDP is also recommended, especially if the break-in will be done on CJ oil. I ran Hamilton's ZDDP additive on my initial oil change and ZDDP Plus on my 3 Delo changes. When I went back to my regular Amsoil CI 4+ AME I stopped using the ZDDP additive.

Mike here is the link. If it doesn't work go to hamilton's site, click on FAQ, then cams, then how do I break in my cam

http://www.hamiltoncams.com/howshibrmyne.html

 

School me on CJ oil?? I am using rotella 15w-40. School me on the amsoil CI 4+... is that synthetic? I was told not to run synthetic in this motor. My original plan was to change over to amsoil full syn but not anymore. 

 

I did put 3 bottles of zddp additive in it. Talk about expensive at $12 or so per 4 ounces. 

 

I've got a front main oil leak so I'm taking the front end back apart tomorrow. The machinist who ordered the rebuild kit installed an wear sleeve on the front of the crank, but I'm thinking he didn't order the rebuild kit with a seal made for the sleeve. I also know he installed the sleeve before the rebuild kit showed up, so I'll give him a call tomorrow.

This should keep you busy for a bit. This is old already and the next low emission oil is already on the cusp of being released. Gawd forbid an engine would happen to burn a teaspoons worth of oil and plug up the emissions system and pollute our environment, running air through a new diesel engine emissions system actually cleans it and comes out the exhaust cleaner than it goes in the engine in certain areas of the country they claim.

 

http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/1036/diesel-engine-oil

 

http://www.apicj-4.org/2009_ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf

Majority of all oil sold today is CJ-4 API grade, There is a rare once in awhile that you'll find CI-4 CI-4+ oil for sale. Basically the CJ-4 is low emission oil as Wild & Free points out.

 

Here is a document TDR did...

TDR57_Oil.pdf

That's a lot of ZDDP! Should be good for the cam.

I don't understand why you where told not to run synthetic. Being a high hp motor you want synthetic for the higher temperature stability, better sheer point, and clinging properties. The only time you don't want the synthetic is during the break in. You will want to put around 10K miles on Dino oil before switching to synthetic, if you switch.

CI oil is the last oil before the DPF era oil. CI generally has more ZDDP additive and a higher TBN which means longer oil life. That being said the 6.7 was built for CJ oil and still uses a flat tappet cam. Personally I won't run CJ oil until I can't buy CI oil. The Amsoil CI AME was one of the best CI oils and is still available.

The Arafat article was decent at the time but is horribly outdated and not worth much anymore. Very few of the oils in it are even available anymore and they didn't even test the most common Amsoil.

Consider this, Almost all vehicles come from factory with synthetic in most all compartments now and especially true with Euro and Asian vehicles. So why then is this old school thought still exist of needing dyno for break in yet?

It's more of a cost thing to me. I am going to do more frequent changes on a new motor so why put in expensive oil? That is probably 90% of it.

Are machine shops getting the final fit and finish of OEM? I am not sure. I would guess it is better but compleatly depends on the machine/machinist.

Yes many OEMs use synthetic but I am not aware of any that have group IV synthetics in them and I wonder if that make a difference? It may and it may not.

VW uses and recommends it in all literature even on our old 03 TDI.

These engines were not designed for synthetic oil specifications. When you break them in, the rings will have a much harder time seating if synthetic is used. I still may switch after, but that's a debate for another time. 

 

For tonight: Pulled trans apart and have most of it back together. I just have to get the mainshaft back into the case, put the keepers in and set the lash. I did find the source of my rough 3rd and 4th gear shifting.... Some of the carbon fiber came off of the syncros. I'm not sure if the PO ever used the wrong oil or what, but it should be good to go for a long time now! Honestly these transmissions are SUPER easy to rebuild. Other than the special tools, everything is simple. I just kept everything in the exact order it came off and put it all right back on.

 

4th gear

 

3rd and 4th gear

 

Here's just a bunch of pics I took.

 

 

 

 

 

Old stuff

 

 

I forgot to take a pic of how it sits now. the stack of gears is on the mainshaft now. I also got the front end ripped back apart to do the main again. (Don't worry I put covers over everything before I went in!)

nice!    sorry about the seal....but i guess that happens.   go get some [lots!] of sleep!   

Could you show a picture of the special tools for the transmission rebuild?

Have you considered a write up about the transmission rebuild?

Could you show a picture of the special tools for the transmission rebuild?

Will do. I don't have a couple of the parts but I make due...

 

Have you considered a write up about the transmission rebuild?

I did, but it's so hard to give accurate descriptions of exactly how to do things. I have the rebuild book and am considering a way to scan it in and place it in the download section.

Will do. I don't have a couple of the parts but I make due...

 

I did, but it's so hard to give accurate descriptions of exactly how to do things. I have the rebuild book and am considering a way to scan it in and place it in the download section.

 

What's the name of the book and where did you get it? I'm considering doing a manual swap next year and I know nothing about the NVs.

I have the dodge NV4500 service manual in PDF, never thought to upload it till now. I also have a parts breakdown PDF, I'll upload them now so we all have access to them.

 

I'd be interested to see what you used for specialty tools for the transmission, I've had mine partially apart for a 5th/reverse sychro dog issue and also found 5th gear nut backed off, I just did a band-aid fix for 5th at the time but someday I'm going to have to put the updated mainshaft in it.

Got the ones for a NV5600??

I would really like one of the 5600 as well. I am looking to pull mine apart in the next year or so. Needs bearings real bad and the synchros are leaving a lot to be desired!! Might be to big a project for one guy to take on in his driveway though...

I think I do, I'll check when I get back on my computer. Now back on topic lol

Well i was just trying to stick my head back in the forum and this was the first thread i saw. It took me 2 hours to read the whole thing. But it was worth it. TF this is a hell of a thread and a hell of a job. I look forward to reading the finish.

 

Hello to all of you and i hope you will forgive me of my long absence.

 

Mikey, I believe I owe a couple of phone calls.

Sorry Mike I was unable to get pics of the tools today. Today was not a good day.....

 

These transmissions are pretty dang simple.... I can't see the 5600 being any different other than another set of gears, meaning it shouldn't be bad with the correct tools. When I have the chance I'll get pics of the tools I have and list the others with pics from the book.

 

dripley, thank you for reading everything! It is a pretty dang long thread and I look forward to the days of posting about how the new parts work together.