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Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/12/2016 in all areas

  1. I feel like this is turning into my own blog! Anyways, in case anyone was wondering, turns out, YET AGAIN, it was the stupid check ball and spring. I pulled it out to check it and sure enough, this is what I found. if if you look close you can see the spring has pushed in over itself on the bottom, causing the lean. The ball is pressed so firmly into the spring that even falling over wouldn't cause it to fall out. I have no clue what's causing these things to fail on me so quickly. Like I mentioned before, FASS seems to think its air leaking somewhere causing higher cavitation (I say BS) but that doesn't add up. I replaced it with an Airdog 17psi spring and Viton rubber ball. I attempted to use the Airdog fitting as well but it seemed slightly too long and wouldn't snug so I kept with the FASS fitting, which has grooves where the spring seats. LEFT: FASS fitting, spring & buna ball RIGHT: Airdog fitting, spring & Viton ball So far pressures are exactly 18 after getting even slightly warm. PSI drops with rpm increase and drops when voltage is pulled from grids. I'll obviously keep you all posted on the longevity of this setup. All in all, pretty wild to think that spring and ball was causing something that seemed clearly electrical.
  2. 1 point
    Sounds like a decent deal considering.
  3. 1 point
    So a long awaited update to this. shocks. some *** hat put the wrong length shocks on the truck and what i thought was bottoming out over bumps was the shock topping out and not letting the suspension move up. they were holding the spring in a compressed state. SO that explained the lower stance. I have sense replaced all 4 with Bilstines and what an amazing difference. it now rides close to my 04.
  4. 1 point
    The engine temp gauge "normal" area is 160*F and 220*.
  5. Thanks for your reply... I did check the alternator (which is new as of a couple months ago) for AC noise.. and all is well there. There are no other symptoms that suggest it is AC noise. I'm going to do away with the Edge and just run the Smarty.. which I have always favored anyway.. and go up a little bit with injectors and be done for awhile. Thanks..........
  6. 1 point
    You could also go with a 47RH transmission. Then all you'd need is a switch for OD and lock-up.
  7. Have you driven in this same manner before? IE loaded with a camper at those speeds on the same types of roads? IE is the possible that this issue has always been there, but you have never driven in the manner before?
  8. Start with the easy stuff. Take the smarty off and leave the edge alone. Then take the edge off and leave the smarty on. If it's gone on both of those the programmers are fighting about something.
  9. So far so good. Just that winter weather is coming and eventually force me home. Remember I've got wood fire heat at home. Just going one day at time for now. I'm back down here with Mom now.
  10. Hey, if it makes you feel better im working for the next three weekends and this is my first time hunting in 4 years! [Forrest gump]Duck gumbo, fried duck, grilled duck, duck creole, popcorn duck, ... (much later) coconut duck, peking duck... and i think thats about it. [Forrest gump]
  11. For stock (or near stock) power levels, I would definitely recommend my Stage 2 build, with a Stage 3 billet triple disc torque converter. This is, by far, the most common setup that leaves my shop. I will run this setup up to about 400 hp. Here is what is included in the Stage 2 build: STAGE 2 47RE · 5 disc direct clutch (full thickness Borg Warner frictions/Raybestos full thickness steels) · 4 disc forward clutch (full thickness Borg Warner high energy frictions/Raybestos full thickness steels) · 6 disc OD direct clutch (full thickness Borg Warner high energy frictions/Raybestos full thickness steels) · 10 disc OD direct clutch (stock setup) · Raybestos Pro Series intermediate band · Sonnax billet intermediate servo cover (w/pin o-ring) · Sonnax billet dual seal accumulator piston (scarf cut Teflon/D-ring at each end) · Sonnax billet low/reverse servo piston · Superior reinforced band strut · Heavy duty Borg Warner low roller clutch · Heavy duty Borg Warner OD roller clutch · Low roller clutch direct lube modification · OD brake clutch cooling/lube modification · Forward clutch diaphragm spring · Complete OD thrust bearing set (w/updated sun gear thrust plate) · OD output ball bearing · Dimpled bronze pump bushing · Heavy duty direct drum bushing · OEM OD/TCC solenoid set (w/internal harness and case connector) · Custom calibrated valve body features: o Full cooler flow/converter charge in park o Increased line pressure o Modified TV pressure and curve o Full time lube modification o Custom shift calibrations (tailored to customer’s usage and preferences) o Modified to allow 3-4 and 4-3 locked shifts (external switch required) Optional: 1st/2nd gear lockup ability (external switch required)
  12. 1 point
    Take notice to my coolant gauge here I've marked the green area as normal. You can see the open temperature of my thermostat. So I would have to say your thermostat is sticking. Heater core is going south if your smelling anti-freeze in the cab. Most likely got a small crack and the expanding coolant with pressure is force out a small crack or pin hole. Highly suggest a fuel pressure gauge. Most idiot light come on way too low. Like my old Cummins low fuel pressure would trip at 3.5 PSI. You need to be able to keep 14-20 PSI optimally. 10 PSI is stock low fuel pressure limit.
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