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Becareful who you let build your nv5600 sence mine failed I've manage to get it pulled out, had metal in the oil, pulled the tail housing and found that unit was built with worn out parts, the main shaft nut was put on with a chisel and almost broked and not tight, this unit came from cummins performance parts i got took dont let this happen to you

Thank you all so much for your support, after extensive testing, swearing, and kicking, I discovered that the electrical connecter to my map sensor was damaged. The 3 prongs were making terrible contact, and a slight wiggle snapped them. A little soldering and a lot more swearing later, the green beast is doing celebratory burnouts. Thank you again for the assistance! Hopefully some one else has a typical issue this can help them.

Here's a thread I posted not to long ago..... https://mopar1973man.com/topic/11909-are-you-looking-for-replacement-engine-fan/#comment-143713

Finally someone found the DOT laws on gravity fed tanks. Thanks to Pcarlson15 over on CF. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-non-powertrain/2210985-cutting-up-bed.html#post25696489 GRAVITY FEEDING IS ILLEGAL Here are some laws (regulations) which pertain to gravity feed fuel tanks, and why they are illegal. 1. 49 CFR CH.III (393.65) 6d; Gravity or syphon feeding is prohibited. 2. 49 CFR CH.III (393.67) 7.4.5.; Fuel withdrawal fittings. The fittings through which fuel is withdrawn from a tank must be located above the normal level of fuel in the tank when the tank is full. In other words, the fuel must come from the top of the tank and not from a fitting on the bottom. For safety reasons. When in doubt, look at your factory tank. There also the venting laws: FMVSS 301 1. Safety Venting System. A liquid fuel tank with a capacity of more than 25 gallons of fuel must have a venting system which, in the event of fire, will prevent internal pressure from rupturing the tank's body, or seams. 2. Each fuel tank must be equipped with a non-spill air vent (such as a ball check valve). The air vent may be combined with the fill-pipe cap or safetry vent. ATTA tanks have a minimum of two sources of vents. Atta sending units come with an anti-siphon ball check valve vent and we use an OEM style pressure relief cap. 3. Fuel tanks must be clearly and permanently marked with the manufacture's name, manufacture date, gallon size, and must state "Meets all FMCSA requirements for non-side mounted fuel tank", and "not to exceed 95% of capacity." And the fuel fitting and connection laws: VESC-22 1. The fuel connections from the auxiliary fuel tank to the primary system, including a selection control valve, shall not render inoperative any of the functions of the primary system. The auxiliary fuel tank lines, fittings, valves, and connections shall, for purposes of fuel flow, be of a size at least equal to the primary system. Basically, No connections or selector valve can prevent the factory fuel system from working in normal functions from any part failure. if the selector valve fails, it cannot prevent the factory system from working. No portion of the selector valve or fittings shall be of smaller size than the factory fuel lines that might restrict fuel flow.

I had a leak problem with a factory replacement back sliding glass two years ago when I had the original replaced since I accidentally knocked a hole in it with a piece of firewood. The leak returned about a week ago and i saw where the track for the slider itself had worked loose on the glass itself and caused the leak and causing the back window track to flop around when you slide it open/closed. My glass guy, who has been in business 30 years said he ordered another replacement glass from factory (chrysler) and it had the same problem. He called them and told them to fix the problem and ship him a good one and the same thing again. That's 3 faulty rear sliding glasses and a week with my truck in the glass shop. Anybody looking to replace a rear glass might want to consider an aftermarket replacement back glass if you need one to avoid going through this problem. Just heads up guys!

1. Set this at a PSI that is above your normal DD cruising PSI. This limit is set to prevent cruising time from engaging if boost is above that limit, IE going over a hill. Typically in the 8-12psi region is where I would set it, but that depends on your psi at highway cruise. 2. That's a known bug in the IOS version of the software. Typically you want this setting at 2 - 4 * of advance for optimal mpg at highway speeds. Keep in mind this is a base 17* setting at 2400 rpm. So if you want 20* at 65, set your cruise timing to ~3 -4 * so that when RPMS are at 2k then your timing will be at 20* Mess with it some to find what works best for you. Just remember it is setting your max cruise timing at 2400 rpm, it will ramp down in a linear fashion to 1400 rpm, 3* span or ~ 1* per 330 Revs.

I've been using Dextron ATF in my transfer case for years now. No issues to date.

Very common where people upgrade turbo way before needed. Like one gent I talked to upgraded turbos with +50HP injectors. He's wondering why it won't build boost like the old stock HX35W turbo did. Too big of a turbo will create much more lag and more issue with smoke because you'll have to build more drive pressure to build boost. Like myself I could upgrade but it leaves me hanging with even bigger problem of replacing the exhaust brake.

turbos work on pressure difference across the turbine. A t4 will flow more, but it will take more volume to get the same pressure. IE it will take more revs to get the turbine moving. If you had a need for the flow of a t4 then you might want ot consider it, but for your setup a t3 will flow more than enough for your power goals. Generally speaking there is no need for more than a T3 on a VP44 5.9 and single turbo

Thanks Wild and Free. I believe those few recent pictures are possibly the ones the workers got fired over. And if you notice, there isnt much showing whats going on now. Everything is only from a few days ago.

Big government loves a crisis. Cali loves big government. The drought they just got out of would have been a good time to get their hydro infrastructure fixed.

Here is a link to tons of pictures of the Oroville spillway fiasco. http://imgur.com/a/OeOJ5

And just to clarify, you only replaced the steering box with the one from blue top? Do you have a steering box brace, track bar, after market steering links? Just curious so I can get an idea of how mine might react to putting in a new box.

Oh believe me MM.....its crazy down here. They just let everyone come back after forcing 200k peeps out of their homes with hours notice.....only to re-implement the evacuation but making it "voluntary". For whatever reason they wont show any pictures of what going on, they even fired some Oroville Dam workers for posting pictures on line, the have a no fly zone anywhere near the dam so no drones can look, and they're expecting another 10 inches of rain from the up and coming storm. I'm not really sure why they're handling this the way they are but people are worried because the integrity of the dam and overflow are at risk with . And.....its being said that if this dam happens to fail catastrophically for any unknown reason, the amount of water to be instantly released would cover 300 sq miles of land. Thats a lot of people who would be affected by this.....

Now I ask you, why isn't that darn media showing the public the latest flooding out of the OD area. This is not a picnic!!!! These people have got to be furious. MM https://doomerdoug.wordpress.com/2017/02/19/oroville-main-spillway-failing-2-19-2017/

Do you have the crossover tubes removed?

i saw a youtube video where a guy used a flan clutch from a v10 and the fan from a ford..... i'm searching for it now... found it... but it's for a 06.. not sure if that matters...

Ryan is a one man show and does his best to keep his customers happy on top of shift work @ full time job with overtime mixed in with his family too. I am not sure when he eats or sleeps.