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Always moar powah

@015point9I do my online filter shopping at www.filterspro.com, but they don't carry everything. For the airdog I recommend the BF1275 and the Donaldson P551315 or DBF5816 @Mopar1973Man I would put a different f/w sep on there at your next change. The suction filter is the best place for a f/w sep, as you don't want to be putting the water thru the 3µ filter if you can help it. Also it's not even a 20 GPH filter and the suction filter on the AD has the most flow since the return is after it. It can't hurt anything to put an actual f/w sep on there. @Dieselfuture Filters are recommended to be changed after time because they can break down internally. Many, not all, of them contain cellulose media and/or glue. If the filter starts to fail you won't necessarily see a pressure drop. I change mine every 30K miles, 18 months, or at a visible pressure drop. Based on my current driving habits with the truck I do an 18 month change. It's probably overkill for plugged filters, but like I said filters do wear out. If you look at industrial motors, which have very robust OEM filtration setups, they generally recommend 12 month or 500 hour filter change intervals. They almost all have staged filtration with lots of media, but that doesn't extend the service life of a filter. My last change was stretched to 20 months due to some out of town time for work. They were on for 15440 miles, 482 hours, and 1091 gallons of fuel burned. Being a diesel most the fuel gets filtered more than once. The in-tank pump runs at around 50 GPH under pressure. That means the filters had over 24K gallons of fuel pumped thru them, which is why time is also a factor in replacement. I'll be doing another filter change in September when I do my annual oil change before elk hunting.

That's a pretty accurate description ^

Here’s what @Dynamic did on mine, which he rates to 550-600hp.

In short and repeat as many times as necessary

When I check tire, brake, or bearing temps by feel on road trips, I am not looking for a specific temperature - I am looking for a different temperature between like objects doing the same duty, for example: one front hub bearing being considerably warmer than the other front hub bearing. - John

If you want 500-550 hp then I would choose the 62/68/12 VP trucks do much better with a 12cm exhaust rather than 14.

You could add a transmission filter in the power steering return line. This would help keep contaminants from reaching the hydroboost and steering box.

Bling you can't see!

It's the second diesel vehicle I've purchased out of Boulder... My pickup came from the north side of town. This wonderful piece of engineering came from Pearl Street. i'm surprised it was allowed to be that close.

Needs an intercooler as well. But that'll be easy. Oh, and #firstmod is a Cummins sticker on the back window, to show how little we care.

Basically, you want to unhook the steering box return line. Now cap the pump nipple to keep fluid in the reservoir. Now route the return line to a waste container. Now jack up the front axle. Now with the ENGINE OFF, KEY OFF position to unlock the steering wheel. Now slowly go from lock to lock. The steering gearbox will pump the fluid out. Keep the reservoir full and keep doing this till the fluid runs cleanly on the return line. Typically I use close to 1 gallon to flush and refill the system. The steering gearbox by itself holds close to a quart of fluid. Turkey baster will not work at all.

that's why the ad says it didn't drive. They were scared to.

Over the years I've never read on the various forums where anyone gained any appreciable mileage gains with the various lock out hub kits. Even a small gain would be nice. I think, the biggest advantage is being able to easily maintain the and check for wear. When my OEM bearings finally give out I may look into a locking hub kit.

Even though I have a stick, it is what you dont see that is the most fun. No one ever expects my old beater to be capable of any thing, but it is even with my limited mods.

Its an okay filter for the application. The specs on the BF1275 are better thou.

I don't think there has been enough time for them to do the repairs if it did get hit, so you are likely in the clear.

At the time it was built it was a little higher around 5-550. Now I’ve pretty much settled at 350-400 even though @trreed says otherwise.

Bought it off a hippie in Boulder. Always for sale, for cheap! This is the first deal I've come across like this, and I didn't even find it.

Obviously the most obnoxious hater pipe I can fit! You also might have heard 300/200's and a 467.7.....

I did not. Jon said it wasn’t neccesary with my power goals. Whats not included in that list is a billet flexplate which I had him install as well for my own piece of mind. As far as any hesitations to drive out there and install and drive home, I didn’t exactly that, over the Cascades to boot and zero issues or worries. @gipperkid Being as close as you are to firepunk is definitely nice being that it’s not cheap to rebuild and being close to the builder adds that piece of mind. Again since I have personal experience with Jon, I wouldn’t hesitate to pull/ship my trans to him if I ever were to do it again.

OMG... 7.3L Ford are killer engines to play with. Once you get that turbo straighten out and a tuner dropped on with some fresh injectors I'm sure that thing could haul the mail down the track.

Call Jon @Dynamic he'll be more than happy to help you out. He builds kits so you can do the transmission work yourself.

Headlight build is again on hold until I get a new retaining nut from Morimoto, as the little thin one stripped . Meanwhile, I now have this: So if you care, come check out the newest level of degenerate shenanigans courtesy of me.

Not worried still got my stock filter in places for catching water. To this day I rarely ever fine water in either filter so the whole worry of water separation is not even an issue. After 60k miles I might have a teaspoon worth of water in both the stock can and the AirDog filter. Nothing to worry about. Now as for filtration. I've got 3um on the AirDog ar a Donaldson filter, Then I've got the stock can with a filter 10um as well. The thing is I change filters every 60k miles roughly. I started cutting filters open and checking the media and found that 15k filter changes are a waste. Then even the second filter in the stock can was catching stuff the 3um was passing. 15k filter... Still brand new. After 60k miles.

Me... I've designed around my driving and local highways. I've got my truck built for good quick power for passing semi-trucks on a two-lane highway with short passing areas. Then keeping the power limit down to keep the MPG numbers up. Then to top it off keeping the longevity of the truck high. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

@jlbayes I generally agree with why you have your stance. For most people they will get the expected longevity from factory level filtration, aside from early CR's and even then all 5.9 CR's. Now that ULSD is standard fuel, and the lubricity additive isn't missed like it was when ULSD was new, I feel the same about fuel lubricity requirements. I do see more issues on peoples vehicles that are only maintained with OEM quality, but not to the point where it can be completely quantified. I also realize that the type of person who runs the cheapest anything is not the type of person to spend time of forums of this nature. All that being said I still run 3 fuel filters and lubricity additive every tank. (as well as better oil, bypass filter, coolant filter, etc..) I do realize it won't show me any gains in 100K miles, but over the life of the truck it should help. There is also varying degrees of benefit, such as economy, power, and efficiency. Call Vulcan and ask what filters they are. Do you still have your OEM filter in-line? There are several AD filter options that have WORSE than OEM filtration, like the one moparman appears to just have showed you . That looks like the WS-100, aka FS19768. It's actually not really designed as a fuel/water separator but has the FS designation due to the drain (directly from Fleetguard). It's only rated for 50% f/w separation and 0% emulsified water separation, at a mere 19.82 GPH... so basically it won't do crap for water issues at the rated flow of the AD. For reference the OEM 10µ filter is rated for 95% free water and 95% emulsified water separation.

Man it's been a Hot Topic lately, are solar flares increasing and taking out alternators

I'd rather have faded paint then holes

This is the beauty of opinions. I want both of you to consider how many of these trucks were built and still on the road with only the factory style filter. Across all the year ranges not only 2nd gens. If the factory filter was so bad we would see much more injector failures, pump failures as well as eroded fuel lines from pumping debris. It simply is not the case. For circumstances you drive @JAG1 as well as @Mopar1973Man I agree better filtration is something to consider. For joe schmoe pavement queens (me ) it is a waste with very little benefit. So I will stand by my statement that the factory filtration is more than sufficient for the general population. I am by no means attempting discouraging others. If you want better filtration seek it out by all means.

So the blue one is the one that was hail damaged? I'm a little confused.