Mopar1973Man

Thor now has a full set of military terminals, and the copper lugs are all crushed on. Sadly, my crimping tool is not designed for large copper lugs like 2/0 and 0 AWG wire sizes, so it pinched the copper on one side, but still made a solid lugs. Improved starting performance, it spins over stronger now. I no longer see power fluctuations like before. There is a few thing I'm going to do is reroute the positive lead for the TIPM so its no longer hanging up the fuse box cover. Driver Side battery Passenger Side Battery

Could you grab a live data tool and check the IAT temperature with the ECT temperature and see if it a real temperature issue or not (electrical problem maybe?) As for the engine not shutting off there is some sort of electrical issues that is keeping the ignition up. I can say if there is a Quadzilla tuner on board and you happened to jump start your dead battery you could of shorted out the Quadzilla, and the engine will not shut off till you unplug the Quadzilla tuner.

You're basically covering up a piston ring(s) issue, typically or bad tuning. Why? Well, normally, these trucks will not produce excessive crankcase pressure or blowby gases. Now, someone who runs worn injectors, then your timing could be advanced by the weaker springs in the injectors. Now, you're creating this extra blow by. might see more slobber of oil out of the crankcase vent (gear case vent). I suggest keeping injectors changed out at 100k miles. After that point your rolling the dice. For every 10 bar of pop pressure loss is about 1 degree of advancement. If your injectors haven't been changed in over 100k miles, I'd start there. Yea,h sadly, the only reason I know to add more vent/filter to the valve cover is that the factory breather is not keeping up because of the vacuum line disconnected (added pressure from the vacuum pump), poor rings on the pistons, worn injectors with low pop pressure (less than 293 bar). Now, like Thor, I have a bad ring in Thor, and Thor starts and runs, but the exhaust is white smoke from the low compression, and there is extra crankcase pressure on Thor from the blowby, and the blowby isn't bad, but still it would help to have an extra vent at that point, but... Better to fix the problem. Yeah, I've got plans to rebuild that 2006 in the future. First problem, I need a shop to work in once again. Another trick is you could create a vent pipe to keep the slobbering down some. Remember, this will not fix excessive blow-by.

I show up... The member who pops up in this type of stalling issue is @pepsi71ocean he had a DTT transmission built and had a similar issue with stalling. It turns out that the torque converter is too low of a stall with the temperatures. If your valve body has the mod done to pump in park, it would help with warming the fluid up, making it a bit thinner before you shift into Drive or Reverse. The problem is that the fluid is thick and cold, and the low stall converters don't do well in cold climates at all. Basically, the best choice is to set the parking brake and put the transmission in Neutral to get the pump flowing. As the pump is flowing, you have the heat exchanger on the passenger side, which should bring warmth to the fluid faster. Give that a shot and see if that helps out.

When you find the magic timing on the Quadzilla it should make it hard to warm up just got to add more miles till warmed up.

Tip for next time: leave the thermostat out of the head till the coolant is full to that point. Install the thermostat and top off with more 50/50 mix coolant. 200℉ is not bad for oil temperature, but was the block temperature hotter? Could you do a write up for the brake lines if possible? I'll make it worth your while. 200℉ Thermostat. So you are going for the higher temperature as well. Let me know how its working for you. I'm still running my Gates 200℉ and no issues to report. Excellent heat in the wintertime and excellent idle performance after extended idle times, it might get a bit smoky the first day till it fully warms up. I'm still running so efficiently that idle will not even warm up the block to even close to open the thermostat (Coolant temps 155℉ to 170℉ and outside temp of barely 35℉)

Wound up delaying the install, finding out the wiring map supplied by Mopar FSM is actually incorrect for some of the battery gauge sizes the 3rd Generation truck are actually 2/0 AWG cable not the stated 0 AWG. Lost most of my warm part of the day going back to get the right rings for this project.

That's so true. Back in the 1990s, I had a long ponytail I kept for many years. Then, after getting stuck under a truck (Beast), I cut the tail off mostly. I kept a shorter version for a long time, too. Then got snagged under a truck again. I chopped it off completely about 2 years before my cancer. Then cancer made me bald. The wigs and colored hair just became fun for me, since I was bald and sick from the chemo. Now I've gotten my hair back, but I can't dye bright colors or even bleach it out because my hair falls out from chemical exposure. I became a master of wearing wigs and having a colorful style after a doctor told me my life could be shortened if the cancer spreads. At that point, I didn't care what the world thought; it was my way of handling a very stressful moment in time, and do it with a Gothic style flair.

Today I'm going to get myself together and get out and do the battery terminals on Thor. Yeah, it's a cold start here this morning. It's going to be a warmer day heading into the mid 50's at least. I want to get the new battery terminal and copper lugs installed today. I figured I would check over the website. @yohon and his rebuild, and helping out where I can. Every day can be a battle for me. I love what I can do, but my body tells me all about it when I try too hard. This is the depressing part for me, doing simple things, but still have to keep my hands clean, so if I have to touch my ostomy bag. (infection risk) This is part of the risk that the other categories will be added to the site. Remember, I'm working in the mud at this point, and certain jobs I just CANNOT do, such as the ostomy bag and infection risk. Those days I cannot work outside on vehicles. I got to have something else to do, so I brought the Computer knowledge to the table and then the fun side of my makeup artistry, which has blown up to +780 followers on TikTok. I'm trying to move more back to my website. Again, I lose ownership of my video and photos when posted on other websites. I own my own webspace, use it! I'm still the same guy who knows tons about the Cummins trucks, but I cannot do the wrench work at a commercial level any longer. I still want to help people, just with the whole loss of my shop and nowhere to even work on my own stuff makes it super rough. This is why posting slowed down for me was depressing to want to build an article, but have no shop and cold weather, and mud to work in. Those days I tend to just stay in and practice my makeup artistry, which today I'm going to do red for another purpose, but I need some photos. Then, since my wife told me to build us a business-class network, I did, and I've learned so much about the Linux operating system and the networking equipment. Amazing to have internet quality tha blow most away! I want to share what I have left. The Titanium and Cloud 10 Computers are open to messages for registered users (unpaid). Please don't post diesel questions in these areas, we will delete those posts.

The overheating is not good on a fresh rebuild, as it expands all the parts during the overheat. Strange to see a Cummins overheat without a fan. I ran several winters without a fan clutch and fan assembly. Might be the call for a full inspection of all thebrake lines. You might hunt around; there are a few here that have replaced with stainless steel brake lines and are using all premade brake lines. Opps. Yeah, we all make weird mistakes. The The NAPA 375-190 thermostat has treated me well. I typically always put a fresh thermostat in with fresh coolant. When you are changing coolant every 60k to 70k roughly, so your additive package doesn't degrade. (pH stabilizer, etc.)

Purchasing a replacement hydrobooster the right way!Beast lost his hydrobooster while my wife and I were down in Boise. While I was down in Boise, I made the call and got a hydrobooster ordered, thinking just direct replacement. Nope! Removal and InstallationSo to remove the hydrobooster your going to need a few tools. Take a 15mm socket deep well and remove the two nuts holding the master cylinder to the hydrobooster. Now carefully capture the rubber seal in the back of the master cylinder too. Pull the master cylinder forward just enough to allow the hydrobooster out. Now remove the 3 pressure lines with a open end 18mm wrench and move those out of the way. The return hose is a spring clamp and just squeeze the clamp and slide back. Pull the hose off. Last step out here to pull the batteries so the brake lights are not burning. Now under the dash locate the rod from the hydrobooster and remive the clip on the pedal pin. This might be a bit tricky but it has tab that laps over the pin to lock and you need to lightly flex it up and over the pin whil pulling the tab. Capture the flat washer on the pin. Noe up in the dash there is 15mm nuts hold the hydrobooster in place deep well sockets are required. The top right hand nut you need to come in from the top there is a passage hole for the socket to fit through. At this point you should be able to remove the hydrobooster carefully. Reassemble in reverse. Just remember to put the fresh o-rings on your pressure hoses so it sealed properly. Be aware...The documents in the box from NAPA are very clear; you need to swap parts from your old unit to make the new unit work. The shaft that pushes the master cylinder, you might have to swap as I did. The new shaft was 10mm too long, which is the brake dragging issue. Then the rubber boot on the input shaft has be pryed off the input shaft collar. Yea! I got that. Then, the adapter plate that mounts the brake reservoir / master cylinder. Rubber boot that goes on the input rod. Approximate length of the rod installed in the new hydrobooster. The master cylinder adapter so the master cylinder will mount! Adapter all on and tight. As for changing the rod that is done by flipping the armed washer like a freeze plug and then work the two arms out of the groove. WARNING: Flying part hazard. The armed washer and the spring will fly so be careful and aware! View full Cummins article

Like whats up with it? What kind of problems?