Mopar1973Man

Whiner... I was out cutting trail all afternoon without a jacket on and sweating bullets... Still got lots to do as far as trail... It still really narrow and tipped outward over a cliff straight off... Now I got lots of shovel work. I guess since the weather is nice today I might be back up there again working the trail...

I might have to get one...

This is indian summer / fall for us... Just wait it gets better yet...

So that's what that little plug us for... Ohhhh... Never bothered to mess with it...

Thanks all...

If it wasn't for the poor weather and all the crap I loaded on the ATV I would of got pics of the snow above me that looks killer too... It only a mild 44*F this morning... http://forecast.weather.gov/MapClick.php?site=boi&textField1=45.24133&textField2=-116.33183

Well I was up on the hill with the ATV and misc chainsaw tools working the trail behind the house... Man oh man the snow line is creeping down the mountain. From the house you can't tell looking up but up on the hill its pretty to look at all the white stuff... On my way down I flushed out 4 grouse and wish I brought a pistol or shotgun...

Manual trans just stick it in high gear and set the parking brake. As for the Automatics not not sure... I think Wild & Free or ISX might have an idea...

W&F is right. Yea... Remove all addon performance boxes and such and then re-check everything...

Welcome to the site. Stick around and enjoy the group...

Water lines... Water pipe freeze nicely below 32*F... So since the water heater is in the shop and the rest of the plumbing is between the kitchen and bathroom... Well it just best to heat than trying to blow all the lines out fill with anti-freeze etc... So I burn 1 fire down in the guest house every 2-3 days heat it up to 75-80*F and then it takes 2-3 day to drop to 45-50*F.

Try this... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2625-P1488-5-Volt-Supply-Voltage-Low and... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/2587-P0522-Oil-Pressure-Voltage-Too-Low

Just because the light is not on doesn't mean you don't have error codes... There is a lot of error codes that will not trip the light.

I agree it going to be exponential in calculation but how to make it work is beyond me... I'm not that good at math...

Thanks...

But remember the test results from DieselPlace was using untreated diesel which scored at 636 HFRR then typical pump diesel should score ~520 HFRR typically. But I've got a feeling that when you look at it from a general point of view. You take like my 17 year old Sthl Chainsaw that is running on 50:1 ratio of 2 cycle oil and GASOLINE. It still got 130 PSI of compression. So looking from a general point of view at 50:1 there should be a score of roughly 0 HFRR because there there was a number above zero then my chainsaw should of wore out long ago...

People wonder why the ricers get 30-40 MPG... They got tiny tires and the weight of the tirees are no more than maybe 30 pounds, have little to no rolling resistance, rotational mass is by half. Then even with my 7,900 pound truck on the scale I still touched a high mark of 25.3 MPG... My typical is 21-22 MPG. So if you going to aim for the actual MPG mark and not going to be towing it would be better to change the gears out for 3.55 gears. But if you towing heavy I would leave it alone.

Best man I know that could possibly answer that question would be Wild & Free... Sorry I'm not much of a transmission guy...

I'll talking to CajFlynn on the phone about this and he suggest pulling the Trans Relay temporarily and see if it stall yet. He feels the TQ conv lockup is still occur some how and stalling it. He's running a triple disc TQ Conv and no problems...

128:1 ratio is my current ratio I've been using since Aug 2006 which makes 91K miles since I started using 2 cycle oil. My VP44 is still going with 126K miles. Then topped my MPG out at 25.3 MPG hand calculated. As for the 128:1 ration that make the HFRR score in theory under 400 HFRR which meets and exceeds Bosch suggested fuel HFRR scores... The 200:1 ratio is used for the Common rail engines.

This is one reason I will not modify the stock wiring if all possible. There is a crap load of APPS mods for TQ Conv issues but the funny part is the trans and TQ Conv issues were never there for over 8-9 years now there present. Now people don't look for the reason why it fail or cauing problem they would rather hack up the wiring in a mod to attempt to fix something. Even my High mod doesn't cut or modify the stock wiring I used the right sockets and connectors to adapt to the stock wiring to do my mods so if there is a issue I can unplug the mod and return to stock without chopped wires... If you going to repair a stocking harness I highly suggest all wiring is soldered and shrink tubed... I'm done with my rant... Pet Peeve...

The red sliding lock has to be move to the left (if present). The squeeze and pull.

How about 12.5 cords of firewood... The splitting rig... Heating 2 buildings... There is no other form of heat in their building just wood heat...

Ummm... Disconnected battery, bad grounds, and a few other things can create this issue... As for the APPS sensor the carbon track in it over time will wear out and the resistance value changes. So the calibration gets lost over time then eventually its so far off the APPS and the ECM battle for values and POP... P0121, P0122 or a P0123...

Well I suggested to ISX while he was doing the work for John to put it in Neutral and let it idle for while and then drop it in gear. I guess he tried than and no luck... I was hoping that idling in Neutral would warm the fluid a bit and help in the stalling problem. I know some of the older trans had problem with drain back... Throwing all my ideas and thought on the table...