Mopar1973Man

Wow! What a PITA... Change out both the connector tube/o-ring and then the high pressure tube... Ok the other thing I was told to look for is check the body of the injector for damage where the two meet. Which your thinking the leak if from...

Well thanks for bring that tidbit over to the forum... Now I got a question for ya... What is the warranty of the Holley?

Might be a good idea to check all driveline and the front axle u-joints like MnTom suggested... Then check the front wheel bearings too... Something isn't right that for sure.

What sad about this in a nut shell is that the American public has to live on a set budget (namely your income) and live within your means... But the Gov't on other hand can continues to keep pushing outside the budget... I really do hope they audit the IRS... That would be a sight to see...

Like mine that I bought I bought mine BEFORE the XGauge function... That's how old mine is... But they had a offer to re-program mine and send it back for free with the updated XGauge software so I sent it in... So now you see my time frame of age plus now looking forward to how the increase of sales... It makes sense...

If I owned one I would be too... But alias I don't... They look too fun...

What your power steering fluid look like? If its dark colored from light tan to black (bad news) time for a flush job... Power steering fluid is one of the most forgotten fluid that should be changed every 30K miles...

Typical... I head the pancake style was common to fail at the diaphram... As for the cylinder style it seem to be holding up better but still I hear of people loosing anti-freeze out of the system and the gauge fall on it face... As for direct connect I've been plumbed this way now for over 6 years now and not a since issue... Other than breaking the tube off at the tap point...Usually it my big hand pushing parts or tools around and I'll break it right at the ferrule... :banghead: Ok... shut the valve... Drive to town spend a hole 10 cents for a ferrule and hook it up again... One of these day I'm going to have to replace that line and hide it better... Matter of fact I'm planning on getting some tubing from NAPA and a set of fitting from Vulcan and change my filter to vP44 line with the newer setup to elminate this problem... Put the tap on the bottom of the filter where it was in the first place out of the way...

Well as for swapping that is not a cheap adventure either... The 6 speed trans (NV5600) is no longer produced so when parts run out that it... As for swapping to a 5 speed (NV4500) that doable but still costly. The fact remains you still need to change out the PCM or have it reflashed for a manual trans. As for trans life the trans temp is critical to trans life. Most don't like seeing temps over 200*F... As for the studder and shifting odd most tend to add a second ground lead to the APPS sensor... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/downloads.php?do=file&id=18 By chance do you have any error codes present? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/obd2-error-codes/obd2-error-codes.htm But as for first thing I would consider doing a fluid change and a band adjustment... During this time you can see how much debris is in the pan...

I'm of the opinion that back in the day that I bought my SG II the company was still very small still limited to how the sold products now with the increase in sales to bigger places like AutoZone etc... I think they are assembling the product cheaper by other means and now we are seeing the failures in quality control... Like myself when I bought mine I had seen no issues really... Even peope that bought at the same time as me... But now with the increase in sales it getting rather sad to see the problems popping up...

Killer setup! What that pump set you back? This looks to be the next best thing to a AirDog setup now...

One write up made it to the static pages...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/amsoil-bypass/amsoil-bypass.htm

Maybe we should bug them about that and request for Cummins XGauges to be produced...

That's true... Yes... It will pull fuel by itsself but it not suggested because of the lack of pressure to keep it lubed and cooled properly...

But I would assume the reason for it is that if you turn off the key the lift pump is shut down and there is ZERO fuel pressure to take care of the VP44 that is still spining...

You might check the RATE setting... You might turn it down to SLOW so it has time to catch up with the data on the CCD Bus... MENU>MORE>MORE>RATE Set it for SLOW for the Dodge and see if that helps...

Typical grid heater load... The grid heater suck out 190 Amps worth of power and the alternator is only 120 Amps typically so it tends to dim and discharge the system... I'm like Flman just about a 1 PSI drop...

I pulled my previous post because I felt bad but you made a quote before I got rid of it... :banghead: As for the grumps and the big sites they tend to run with Chip's 5 PSI comment and take it as gospel. I got admit I've used several tidbits of Chip information too. Like the diagnostic information is dead nuts for telling if a VP44 is heading south. Like myself I stopped in a local rebuilder shop in Lewiston Idaho (happens to be a advertiser) and he's also saying that typical fuel pressure should be about 10-15 PSI. When I mention a AieDog 150 you get the "oh nevermind" comment... Which makes me feel good... I think it comes down to the fact of Cooling/Fuel pressure, soldering issues, fuel lubricity, and good filtering. Yea Chip did find a bunch of this stuff out and made life but for all of us. I tend to prefer the slightly highier number like 15 as a minimum to hopefully keep the VP44 overflow valve open more. The for filter I tend to prefer the 2-3 micron fleetguard filters. As for lubricity well that without saying... (2 Cycle Oil) As for that I see a slight drop but only 0.5 PSI. So if I'm idling at 17 PSI coasting at any speed I see 16.5 PSI... As for consumption there shouldn't be any into the cylinders (injected) because there there would be acceleration. Now the fuzzy part... If there is only 2 exit points 1 being the injectors and 2 is a overflow valve... So either the VP44 is pushing fuel out the overflow valve or bleeding past the injectors into the return rail...

Don't get me wrong either... I'm not asking Chip to change either... But the mass tend to take the 5 PSI comment to far... Like over on your other post even he comment on the 10-15 is a normal pressure... This makes me feel better... (Sorry to ruffle feather...) As for my fuel pressure mine is hanging at 17 @ idle still and 15 @ WOT... Today temp was 49-50*F outside...

Your going to have to run the calibrate again... Make sure you fill it up the same way both times at the same station at the same pump. Also is your speed showing true to a GPS? Like my truck the stock speedometer is off by exactly 0.5 MPH so the odometer is typically off by 15 miles by the end of a tank. Double check you distance travel against a GPS to make sure its showing correctly. The fillup calibration and the speed calibration ar important to get good accurate numbers... Mile Per Gallon Calucation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) = Miles Per Gallon Gallons Per Hour Calculation Speed (Miles Per Hour) / Miles Per Gallon = Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) Speed Calculation Fuel Usage (Gallons Per Hour) x Miles Per Gallon = Speed (Miles Per Hour) Now we will use the examples above to calculate MPG form fuel flow and speed. 65 MPH / 4.39 GPH = 14.80 MPG

sorry but that...:banghead: But now its fixed...

Very controversial video clips... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rI1wj0a99PI

Corrosion??? I know the Edge EZ is under the hood... Maybe you might see if it will make it into the cab...

LOL! OMG! That tiny hole... (Magnified x12) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=548&d=1265209366 http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=547&d=1265209337 Now give you an idea how small that hole is he's talking about you can take a single straind of copper wire from a 16 AWG cable and it will barely pass. 14 AWG straind won't... Now figure out at 5 PSI how much fuel flows though that tiny hole. NOT MUCH! So how could this even be considered a good cooling flow? That bleed hole was design for priming the system and passing air. Air will pass through a small hole easy where fuel will slow down considerably. Now looking at the overflow hole at 14+ PSI now you pumping fuel and cooling... But that tiny hole... Sorry I'm going to hold to Dodge/Cummins/Bosch standards personally... Being that I lost my first pump at 8 PSI of fuel pressure. Then on top of that if you preform the volume testing of the lift pump according to the TSB if the lift pump volume test fails at 8 PSI... (Dodge/Cummins TSB) http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2003/14-002-03.htm As for my testing of 8 Psi I did it 10 times and all 10 times I came up short in the volume requirement at 8 PSI... (Pic attached) http://forum.mopar1973man.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=549&d=1265210510 As for dyno test and quarter mile testing of pumps... That short life testing... Still there is nothing from any re-build shop that can prove 100K, 200K or even 500K with 5 PSI of pressure... Remember we are common folk that drive long distances not race a quarter mile and load up on a trailer and go home. Like myself is 70-100 miles just to go grocery shopping... Or 100 miles for a load of firewood climbing a 7-10% for 15 miles... I need a pump to last a long time... I can careless about max HP/TQ at what fuel pressure... I've got difference requirements...

The adjustment part is opening up the injector and changing the shim trhis will change the pop pressure.