Mopar1973Man

Here is a short video I did last summer with my ScanGauge II and the how I pull good numbers... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AiQFadYL6co

Yes sir... The little plastic disc is a temp sensor for the battery... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/wiring/24V-wiring-1.jpg

Sorry for the lag... But my issue was the bolts on the transfer case had come loose... So the front shaft was rattling on the bolts... Easy fix for me... :thumbsup:

It located under the driver side battery. It senses the battery temp and regulates the voltage to prevent gassing of the battery which in turns dries them out. The old school regulators use to sense the under hood temp and under charge the batteries which caused them to fail early. Now with the new technology the battery life is extended greatly because it always gets a full charge (if driven long enough) and done in such a manner to keep the electrolyte from boiling out and drying out a cell. Side Note... My house is totally battery powered... The inverter has the same battery temp sensor mounted on a battery to control the charge rate and keep the batteries from getting gassy on normal charge. Give you a clue the 8 6 Volt batteries are 15 years old and still holding awesome charge and the light NEVER go out at my place! :thumbsup:

Well the APPS sensor might need to be replace or reset. I would try reseting first then if the dead pedal and the code returns then the APPS is done and needs replacement. The P0236 code is a MAP sensor problemmost likely and the sensor had failed... The low voltage codes is most likely a wiring fault, alternator issue, or blown alternator fuse... But I wonder why the engine was replaced? The engines will travel up to 1 million miles without being rebuilt. Talk to CajFlynn he's going on 760K+ miles on a 2001 Dodge...

From what i'm hearing that AVG is pre-programmed into the SG II at the factory for people but its really easy to change, add or replace...

Lots of fresh water quick! Then even more fresh water... But I would replace both batteries and double check the charging system and the cables for problems. Check for error codes because maybe the battery temp sensor is bad... Guessin'

Yeah you busted me... My Bad...

Now there is a bumper that could push anything...

Thanks Edcasey... That is a great way of putting the P1693 error code. Little more insite on the key trick it went back to as early as OBD I computers and function as flash codes. This includes the 1st Gen trucks. But the key trick was omitted in the 98.5 and 99 I figure because of the rush to retrofit the Dodge with computers (Cummins and Dodge) so by 2000 they figure out how to enable it but didn't quite get it right all the time. I've found several trucks here in Idaho that function fine for the key trick (2000-2001 models) So not all truck had this issue...

I think so... The pic is rather small but if you watch the routing of the fuel lines to the center line should go to the VP44 and the outter line back towards the lift pump... ISX is the wizard at this! I've got the newer filter with the connection on the bottom...

Give it time and calibrate it a few times... Short story... I bought mine orignally for my Mom's truck to diagnose a error code problem but I desided to hook it up and us the MPG display too... OMG! The number were WAY off... Showing about 53-70 MPG as a tank total... After doing a calibration 2 or 3 times and getting the offset right now it just about dead nuts prefect. But you want to know what the offset was??? 233% OFFSET... Yes... It took awhile of check hand math, GPS the speedometer and odometer fo correct numbers, and verifying the numbers from the SGII... But tell you the truth I trust the SGII more so that the fuel gauge in her truck now... When I pull up to the pump and the price it shows it usually right on the money if the price per gallon has changed... as for the offset on my truck its 9.6%... I know it time to verify mine again too...

Here to help out... http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/98ISBspecs.html http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/01ISBspecs.html

I purchased a tapped banjo bolt from Geno's Garage for the fuel pressure gauge... (Staock system) Since you got the older style filter housing you can use the port on top. (Inner most port sohuld be to VP44). Then yes you need a needle valve so you going right ans the braided line to the gauge is fine for under dash but A-pillar it going to be a really PITA. If all the fittings are 1/8" NPT then yes...

I love it so far... Worth it...

There was actually 2 styles of VP44... 98.5 to 99 was a 215 HP truck... Then there was a SO (standard Output 235/460) then HO (High output 245/505) SO typically were 5 speeds and Automatics and the HO was the 6 Speed trans...

Yeah ISX is cheating and pulling my photoshop pic... But I agree I would keep it in the green... :thumbsup:

That's simple just a calibation away... I need to get the funds together... But the SG II can be calibrated for this were the stock overhead if FIXED...

Personally I prefer a fuel pressure between 14-17 PSI as a normal. Reason being is above 14 PSI now the overflow valve is opened and excessive fuel is now flowing from theVP44 pump. This increase volume flow around the VP44 thus cooling it greatly. But as for maximum pressure documented by Bosch there is none as far as I can find. But as for safe and relible pressure I would hold a span of 10-20 with a normal of 15-17 PSI. Now there is a few pioneers out there with 12V mechanical fuel pump pushing 35-45 PSI into a VP44... But there is no long term results on this yet. So you got some at one extreme saying 5 PSI is fine... Then at the other end of the spectrum there another group saying extremely high pressure is good. I use common sense at this point that ther overflow valve is designed for 14 PSi to open. so if you want to increase cooling ability you got to get just enough pressure to open and hold open the overflow valve to increase fuel flow around the VP44. So going to full extremes and pump beyond 20 PSI is a waste and below 10 PSI and the valve is shut and most times out of ten cant meet the requirements of VP44 at WOT...

So the truth comes out now... My comments are in blue...

Well here is simple data given from my ScanGauge II for comsumption rate... On my stock truck I remember seeing 18-20 GPH consumption rate with mt RV275 and Edge Comp on 5x5 I'm seeing 30 or so now... 20 GPH Demand / 40 GPH supply = 50% consumption rate (50% left ofr cooling lubing) 20 GPH Demand / 30% Requirement = 66.6 GPH needed to meet Bosch 30 GPH Demand / 40 GPH supply = 75% consumption rate (25% left fo cooling/lubing) 30 GPH Demand / 30% Requirement = 100 GPH needed to meet Bosch So for stock setup you would need at least 66.6 GPH to meet the bosch requirement... Since the closest pump to that is the FASS 95... Once again it proves that Dodge cut corners on the fuel system... So now with my AD 150... 30 GPH Demand / (AirDog) 150 GPH supply = 20% consumption rate (80% left fo cooling/lubing) Remember this is simple math figuring it out but real world loading and demands is way different...

I would contact a radiator shop and ask them what they use to clean out a block and radiator... Like I said I've used nothing more that standard Prestone and creek water to flush my system. I'm coming do for my next flush I'll grab pics again... I'm sure its going t o look fine again...

Yeap... The fact is Bosch requirements is 70% to be returned and 30% to be burned. So if the supply is under rate the the cooling and lubing is cut to keep the engine going...

Well so far I'm pleased with the injectors. I've seen to have a very slight miss that is very very mild and rare to occur. But so far I'm enjoying the +2 MPG increase to the fuel mileage. I'm now able to touch 21 MPG with winterized fuel in Idaho... Never done that before... But I got to admit you must be careful with the new found power that comes with the injectors. On wet or icy pavement things can horribly wrong quick.

Hmmm... In the bed of my truck is 7 gallons of drinking water and 2 MRE's under the back seat... After being with fire dept this long I know a full MRE is a hell of a meal... Even comes with its own heater to heat the meal... coffee, candy, snack, matches, main meal, even a mini bottle of tobasco... :ahh: