
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Cool site
That is really neat! It nice to see where we came from in basic function to the the today's modern engine. ;)
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gas stablizers
LOL Don't sweat it...I've got a old Dodge magnum XE that been sitting over 10 year with better than a half tank of fuel and it fired up without a problem and I never treated the fuel with any kind of stabilizer. The most you might find out you got to do is take the carb off and clean it up and you good to go. If the tank has room I would drop in a tank of high octane fuel over the top ot boost it back up.
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Waking the Princess
Here you go...
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Anyone ever do a tensioner install on a 3.9L Magnum?
Boy that's a killer write up for doing the setup on the timing! :thumbsup :smart
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Expensive fuel and speed!
Ah as for the lugging point its roughlt anything lower than 1500 RPM's... That when I see the sudden rise of EGT and boost. Other than that right around 1,500 is the lowest RPM I can climb most highway grades. I've got one hill mark for 45 MPH and requires 4th gear to climb because the RPM range is just way too low. Now like for example white bird grade in whitebird, Idaho its 7% grade that is 7 miles long. I've tested running it at 55, 60 and 65 MPH off course running it at 55 MPH gain me about 2-3 MPG over running it at 65 MPH (6-8 MPG total running grade). Now lets say I've got 21-22 MPG before I start the grade at 65 MPH going over the 7 mile grade I can pull the MPG from 21-22 down to 15-16 by the top! But if I was to slow down to 55 MPH I can hold 17-18 MPG at the top.
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BHAF Filter Minder.
Here is the template for the BHAF. Just print it out and tape it together.
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what kind of power
Just keep an eye on that pressure and don't let it fall below 10 PSI much... 8|
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what kind of power
I was just thinking that too... I don't think the FASS DDRP is going to handle that... :poke
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Cab blower stops working?
Hmmm... Vacuum leak under the dash, bad vacuum motor that is leaking or a bad vacuum selector fot the vent controller??? :confused:
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what kind of power
Basically doing rough math...Stock 235 HPEdge Comp +120 ------------------355 HP @ the flywheel.Injectors +75 -----------------430 HP @ the flywheel.So roughly ~430 HP at the flywheel. But with you oversized tires your going to loss quite a bit of both HP (to the ground) and MPG's. But if you ditch the 305 tire and get down to a 285 or even 265 tire you would gain back a lot of both HP and MPG's. A a matter of fact I'm down to 235/85 R16 and now starting to see 23-24 MPG on the top side now... My typical daily running I'm gettitng 20-21 MPG. You'll be surprised how much a larger tire robs you of MPG's! :wow
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Anyone ever do a tensioner install on a 3.9L Magnum?
I aim to please... :D :thumbsup
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Black Cloud Over my Head
Yeah that the rheostat part how about the the 2 idle validation switches??? Pins 6, 2, 1... On the stock side of the adapter? Idle switch control several different functions... (Exhaust brake, Idle functions, high idle, etc)
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Black Cloud Over my Head
APPS sensor? :confused: Is the APPS sensor idle validation switch functional? :confused:
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bad new lift pump? or guage?
Even though its a electric sender its going to get beat up from the pulses of the VP44 and lift pump this why I suggest putting a needle valve or a snubber on even electric gauges. But since the problem came after the back lighting I would back up and disconnect it and see if the problem still there. Basically double check your wiring... Grounds are really important!
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Funny story
I've seen this so many times in my life and it really blows my mind what people are thinking or not doing to keep there truck going.(Shaking my hand...)My friend thing I'm nuts anyways I got my hood open more times out of ten and crawling around my truck. But the funny part is that I've never had a serious failure that required a tow truck yet with my Cummins. Don't get me wrong I've had my share of failures but I stay on top of it once the problems start it got fixed instantly. About 18 years ago I was on my way to a David Copperfield show in Boise, ID with my family. I was driving my 1973 Charger SE. We stopped in Horseshoe Bend, ID for fuel and I popped the hood and checked my oil like usual and notice the weep hole on the water pump was weeping. I told my parents I'm going to have to stop in Boise, ID to get some coolant and limp home. Well we never made to the top of the grade (BOMB! Rattle Scrap!) The water pump gave up and threw the fan into the radiator... 8| Limp over the top and coasted to the bottom to a phone... tow truck time... ` This taught me a lesson for sure. So now I do regular inspections of all my vehicles even the Goldwing, Honda Rancher ATV, both trucks, and even my fire trucks!
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Anyone ever do a tensioner install on a 3.9L Magnum?
Hmmm... Slipped timing chain is typical for lack of power. There is a TSB for you Dakota... (Attachment File)Here is the documents for doing the chain... (Attachment file)
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bad new lift pump? or guage?
Ok... Did you use a isolator, snubber or a needle valve? (Need one of the listed for either electric or mechanical gauge).As for the pump you wired on a switch? This not a good idea there is several that have done this too and you'll; tend to forget to turn on the pump when your in a hurry. Also starting proessure might be to high and cause starting troubles.
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American Truck??
Another thought on the American made idea...Like myself since the time I got involved with cummins powered trucks I've produced a few products that would repair or modify the stock truck like my crancase vent mod and my high idle mod. Now here is the kicker... For me to produce any of these products and sell them to the public I need to sell them for over $100 buck at least. This is just so I make a profit on the product. Between buying the materials, design & assembly, and shipping costs I'm left with a very small margin of profit. Most people think the prices are high and I think I'm working way too hard and making to little profit so I gave up. There is other factors like driving around trying to hunt down sources for parts and materials to make these products. I might be lucky and make $20 bucks per item that took me 2-3 days to build... Now looking at that on a per hour basis I fell like I'm the slave now... ` I've had many people tell me that I should sell my knowledge to the general public. Well the problem with that is if I put a price tag on what's in my head and try to sell it to everyone I'm sure this web site would become extremely quiet and I wouldn't make much of a profit. ` But there is a few people now that have been extremely generous and sent me donation and wonderful hand wrote thank you letters. Hate to say it but its something that will not change with the American Public everyone wants something for nothing (or at least cheap as possible).
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Stupidity Charge
I'm also self employeed... :thumbsup * Cloud 10 Computers* Mopar1973Man - Auto MechanicsI'm also getting hit with stupidity calls too... But what I do is hide the stupidity charge inside other things. Like Travel charges, shipping and frieght charges, etc. Like my common problem is people not keeping a good anti-virus program or just know better to stay out of the porn sites. Well these people usually got a easy fix for me so... I tell the owner that the computer is infected. Ok... Now I got a simple solution I'll pull the hard drive and return home to scan it. Now I return home and scan it with mine and list the infection in the bill. I charge for the time at the job site, time at the shop, and travel to and from the site x2! Make it very profitable. But now for a good customer I would pack up my computer and head to the site and scan there computer and the bill is really cheap. (Site time, and travel).Now there is bonuses to this method too. The fact a annoying customer will not follow me back to my shop to watch me scan it so my time at the shop can be adjust accordingly if I have to. Also I'm not being bothered my customer to finish quickly or peering over my shoulder. This works for both automotive or computer work. I know I can do most jobs on site but if it really a annoying customer have them drop it at the shop and I'm free! There you go... :thumbsup
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American Truck??
Well part of this has to do with the American public having a need for speed. If the Gov't would return the speed limit nation wide to 55 MPH we would see a fuel saving and a huge rise in MPG's. Since I good friends with the local police and state police... First off 90% of Idaho speed limits are 55-65 MPH period! Now the local police are still giving ticket out for 70-75 and even a few close to 80 MPH! This is completely sad! I've done a lot of study of getting high MPG's and a bunch of it has to do with you right foot! The technology is here all ready but no one uses it...Now for kickers I just went out today to help out with Branding and Fencing up a friends ranch. Well I drove the whole way at 55 MPH on the highway and I NEVER even had a single vehicle come up behind me or pass me in 25 miles of highway travel (US 95). Then turned off the highway and headed 7 miles up a dirt road. Did my work... On my way back down to the highway I tried to coast the whole way to the bottom. Then once on the highway I drove back home at 55 MPH again. The only person that passed me was my buddy in his 1992 Dodge Cummins... He took lead and set his cruise also for 55 MPH... When I returned home I still pulled a 20.6 MPG for the day. Not bad... Do mine you I got my ATV load in the back of the truck.It's truely sad to see the American vehicle having to outsource to pull the price down to compete with world markets. I wish that American public would man up and relize we CAN and WILL alway make quality products but it will COST you in the long haul. Yes you can send things to China or Japan to be assembled cheaper but thats just like days of slavery. We are there again just using the Middle East for our slavery...Oh the price of diesel and gasoline are $2.869... I'm heading for $3.00 a gallon quickly... :mad DISCLAIMER: I know I might of hit a few nerves but I'm just trying to speak my mind honesty... If this is a bit much I will EDIT or DELETE it...
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Best Way to Change Brake Fluid
JL... Mine is a different setup... You hook up the jar and crack the bleeder screw and pump your brains out. Now your setup you just cracking the bleeder screws and letting it sit there dripping. Now if your to pump the brakes as soon as you let of the pedal the air would suck in a heart beat! It just my setup is quick and dirty method. Yours is just dirty... LOL ;)
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Best Way to Change Brake Fluid
Yes... You would have to bleed all 4 wheels to get the system cleaned up. Starting at the rear passenger side, rear driver side, front passenger side and then front driver side in that order. Basically start out with the rear passenger side and pump out nearly all the brake fluid through it. Then re-fill and bleed it till clean the other wheels will go quick after that. Now there is a problem and short coming to this. This will freshen the the fluid in the system but it does nothing about all the debris that drops in the bottom of every caliper (or wheel cylinder for drums). This debris will remain after the bleeding. So say about every other bleeding (60K miles) you should open up each caliper and wheel cylinder and inspect it for debris, pitting, rusting, piston and seal damage. Before you start just pull the calipers off and dis-assemble them completely and wash everything in soap and water. Then blow dry with compressed air so metal part won't rust. Look closely at the seal on the right side and you can see the damage done by debris in the brake fluid. Now look at the piston. With the seal out the piston should fall to the bottom of the bore like pictured without pushing. Also pay attention to rub marks or pitting of the cylinders. If not you can slight tune the pistons with a fine grit sandpaper (600) and lightly sand them till the fit by dropping. Here with a new seal in place. Mark sure you pre-lube them with fresh brake fluid before assembly.
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Cab blower stops working?
If so then it would fall back to DEF mode all the time... :confused:
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Best Way to Change Brake Fluid
Well I was in the process of building a brake bleed page (Buttom missing) http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/brakes/brakes.htm But basically I created a bleeder container to keep the air out of the system. Basically a mayo jar and a piece of vinyl tubing inserted in the lid of the jar to hang down to the bottom of the jar. This keeps the line from sucking air back in the system. Yeah that what brake fluid looks like after 30K miles nasty black color. This is what fresh fluid looks like after a good change at 30K miles... Use typical DOT 3 Brake fluid and your good to go! ;)
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Did the 4th gear hunt fix..what now?
Wow! :wow The dealer mechanic suggested my idea??? That's a shocker! 8| That's for sure one to add to the books! Wow! :wow