Mopar1973Man

Ummm... Seriously I would consider the Quadzilla over Smarty. Quadzilla has full timing controls and fuel map controls which nets a total of 180 HP vs Edge Comp at 120 HP and then Smarty at 60 HP. Remember Smarty tunes have to play by the limits of the ECM and VP44 so it can't do much than 60 HP. DO NOT STACK TUNERS!

Impressive...

Smarty Tuners are in Filer, Idaho the last that I knew. https://smartypros.com/contact/

Finally, yesterday got the legal stuff done to use Thor again. Suzanna and I went to McCall in Thor. Here is what happened. Thor was plugged in and parked in my garage. Fired up but long cranking. Idle smooth for a short time then starts to miss. As we left I managed to start building boost and blew the intercooler boot on the turbo side. Turned around and returned quickly and fixed that took about 10 minutes. Once fully warmed up I runs good. We stopped at Ridleys in McCall for misc grocery things. Came back to Thor loaded up and tried starting and very long cranking. Between attempts I allowed the lift pump to run and prime the fuel system again. Started again. Then we stopped at a bank and sure enough Thor was hard starting again. The last tidbit the grid heater light came on again on the trip up the mountain. I need to figure this puzzle out. Any suggestions?

Totally understand. Being ive not been able to even turn a wrench for a year, it rather tough to be limited on income.

Hmmm. Never really handled and TIPM yet but would consider calling @Auto Computer Specialist and see if they haidle the TIPM as part their services.

Chipped key required you can't start a 3rd Gen truck without chipped key near the ignition lock. Thor is that way and without the chipped key it will start and run a very short time like 2 to 5 seconds then the engine shuts down and a red light on the lower right of cluster. This is chipped key is required to keep it running.

I was really hoping someone would give me a bit of aid with this misfire issue somewhat. Baffling...

Hey Gang, I've managed to get Thor running for the first time in 2 years. I opted for a stock fuel pump for right now since I'm missing parts yet for the AirDog 150 fuel system I've got I'm looking for a bracket for the pump. I have good positive pressure for the CP3 injection pump. I need to find out what the misfire and studdering are about. Cold start it's a bit long cranking not bad. Once it starts it runs rough and smokes white. I've got a set of @dieselautopower +50 HP injectors installed and had them sent back to DAP and found one injector had an issue and was repaired and sent back. Then I ordered a set of o-rings and replaced all o-rings on injectors and cross-over tubes. Once warmed up all roughness is gone. It runs good and strong for what it is. I can even do the oil cap test and the cap does not even move. I'm trying to figure out the cold idle roughness and warm up smoke them once warm it drives and runs great. Even yesterday I drove to town and got 50 dollars of fresh diesel fuel to make sure its got enough cetane and pour point depressants. Currently 39*F here. Last problem in this category is the grid heater light came on yesterday and dinged 10 times signaling its high flow rates of the CP3. It idles at about 7,9xx PSI of fuel rail. At 1,500 RPM its pumping up to 11,8xx roughly and appears the fuel rail is building good pressure. With Thor being my project I plan on writing articles as I get things figured out. So anyone give me a hand on this? Monday I'm going to put insurance and registration on Thor and he's going to become my daily runner. Why? Beast finally needs shop time and the rear main seal is leaking. Thor becomes the primary rig for now while I gather supplies for Beast and get my help here to remove the transmission and transfer case so we can access the rear main seal. Thor is also going to lose the heavy flat bed and front bumper soon. I'm going back to the lighter factory box and tailgate then factory bumpers and ditch close to a full ton of steel. Thor is fat at 9,300 pounds even empty.

I'll admit it was a grab for memory on pressure value. My bad. 4500 is injector pop pressure again my bad. As for the burp back typically that is because of air is trapped and and displacing the fluid. Repriming a system typically is a bit frustrating but patience is key. It a matter of run and settle time to work air out of the system. If the pump is truly pumping then its a matter of clearing up the air and getting just power steering fluid through the system.

Here is the CanBus map... This shows the TIPM is a controller of sorts controlling more than just the lights...

Gotta keep in mind air is compressable, the pump needs to reach at least 4,500 PSI to do its work properly. Is it possible you have a foamy power steering fluid? How about a bad pressure regulator in the pump that is stuck in full bypass? Being both the steering and brake booster are both affected it's back to the power steering pump, typically. Now, the typical neutral position for both steering and brakes should return full flow to the reservoir again. During use of the steering and brakes the pump should increase pressure and hold for brakes and steering to function in high-stress environments (panic stop avoid deer).

Might check shaft alignment too make sure your dogs are lined up into the slots of the vacuum pump. Make sure the pump shaft isn't damaged.

Normally... I do this with only the steering box return routed to the waste container. Now with the reservoir full with the front axle lifted off the floor now rotate the steering from lock to lock without the engine running. The steering box will naturally pull a vacuum sucking the fluid on one side of the piston the dumping flow when compressing. Typically takes about a full quart to prime and clear the lines. Then hook the return line back up and do the purge again till the foam quits then you are ready to start the engine.

Ok. Best timing numbers are based on the the engine oil temperatures. When your timing is correct the coolant and oil temperatures will fall slightly and engine load is reduced. Like myself I got to calculate the pop pressure on mine a bit more being I'm a bit more retarded with higher pop pressure. Colder IAT typically likes more timing but need to keep retarding also to be able to build boost quickly. I just released the newest version (2024.12.1) of my Eco Tune for December. The 265's are bit taxing to MPG's. I've created the newer version of tune with deep retard for boost building and power is nearly instant. Still can reach below 20% engine load and keep in the 20's for MPG's.

Just my thought is the security system is flashing the lights just like you repeatedly hitting the alarm set button.

Passing thought... Might ask if @Auto Computer Specialist can diagnose the TIPM. Just a thought.

Again here we go... Ugh! I started PT today and trying to strengthen my core. I've lost a lot of muscle mass and control over some areas of muscles that are weak. My PT doctor is working on getting more info on my limitations. As for today was an intro to how am I doing. Well not too good sadly, but it is fixable. Just in a few exercises I'm sore already and need to keep going and working on building my strength and movement. Almost a full year since my start which was December 17, 2023 today is December 11, 2024. Now to try and build back some to get back to a normal life.

Youtube the video. As for the flash its the TIPM which uses digital signals for controlling lighting and such. Double-check all electrical connections and make sure there is no loss of voltage. I've seen a truck when you turn on the right turn signal the horn would honk. The left turn signal would flash the headlights etc. All weird. The problem was the wrong voltage signal sent to the TIPM and then that module turned on what it was told depending on the voltage value on the wire.

Grid heaters will not cause stalling. This morning Beast was started with no block heater and no waiting for the light about 26*F outside. I just hit the key. The engine started and missed, studdered and smoked white till the cylinder temps rose. Then smoothed out instantly. Ran fine. No stall. Air in the fuel will cause a stall on start up.

I would if I had the time and trailer. I'd love to do a cross country trip with Beast to deliver it. Sadly I'm still fighting medical appointments and other stuff. Anyone else? Anyone will to help? Might check U Ship they will haul for a price.

Not a prob. When parts have hundreds of thousands of miles a reman is best.

Keep going you are on the right track.

Suggestion don't come to Idaho. You can have a block heater but there is no current bush to plug it into, We see -40*F temperatures and nowhere to plug in so I built Beast to be cold-started between the high idle software and other things I can start without on even if I went snowmobiling into the back country and come back and cold stat a -40*F unplugged. Block heater are only good if you are at home where the block heater can be plugged in. Like when I go back to the hospital there is nowhere to plug in and my truck sat for 4 days while in surgery last year. Using the Quadzilla High Idle Kit (Mopar1973Man Designed High Idle) https://quadzillapower.com/High-Idle I can go from -20*F to 170*F in just under 10 minutes typically without a block heater.

Crappy noise filters for a bad ground and alternator issues. If it was me I would ditch all that and return to normal stock wiring and fix the real issue of the bad ground with the W-T ground wire mod and then test the alternator.