Mopar1973Man

Yeah I want to try the 200*F thermostat. NAPA doesn't stock any 200*F thermostats. I jumped on RockAuto and spotted the Gates thinking great name to buy. Week later I was pulling it out because of wild temperature swings and install a 190*F NAPA. Back to the 192-194*F solid temperature. Still want to try a 200*F but not sure where to buy it. Nope don't say Cummins or Mopar. Not happening... I don't want the crappy fall apart Robertshaw design. Even NAPA has two series for the 1996 Dodge. The 192 and the 195*F for the V8 gas engines. Rock solid temperature right at 195 to 197*F. Too small for the Cummins.

Same here. I went the silent direction. 4,000 watt 120 VAC Trace Inverter and solar and hydro power sources. The recovery time between power failure and inverter is about 5 ms for the relay to close. This provide up to about 24 hours of light loads with no generator. I've got a 6,500 watt gasoline generator to cover for the next day if there is no solar or hydro power which you can run to charge the batteries and heavy load. It's rare to start the generator I gave up on the electric start battery for the generator long time ago. The fuel has to be drained and removed after use it might be YEARS before needed next time. 99% of the time I just ride the batteries. The house is converted to LED lights and modern appliances that draw less power. You can still use the laundry mat, well pump, water heater (if backed by the generator), TV and internet (if the local battery is still going at the switch.) The only way to tell if the power is out is check the HVAC head for LEDs lit up if not the city power is gone.

Last Gates 200*F I bought didn't last 1 week. Very wild up and down swings in temperature. Down as low as 168*F and the way up to 220*F on open.

Even the filter I'm running on my little AirDog 150 is about 60k mile filter. His will be like 250k miles... Even more...

I gave up on Edge products long ago. Don't get me wrong I run the Edge Comp for 10 years still own it. The problem is Edge has way too many play toys and nothing for tuning. Screens are way too small. Force to have a tuner displayed in the cab. (theft problem and cop problem). Cops love to hand out speeding tickets seeing the tuner hanging on the a-pillar. With the Quadzilla it can be headless and there is nothing left in the cab for a cop to see or thief for see. Quadzilla does provide full timing control and fueling control.

Yes sir there is a video of that.

No. If you take a 1 ounce sample and leave it expose to the air the oil should be left after everything evaporates. Power Service will turn into a thick tarry mess. This is no a lubricant if the oil is not there after evaporation. Mostly what you see is cetane booster that reduced the BTU's. 2 Cycle oil stay 2 cycle oil forever. 2 Cycle is a natural cetane reducer, it is a true burnable a lubricate.

Timing needs to be based off of cetane, injector pop pressure, and for other conditions. You could have a Hotrod pump and then have low popped injectors like 305 bar and that would negate most of that. Injectors fire larte but the pump fires early. Then cetane could swing it early or late again depending if the cetane is low or high.

Double check for the P0381 code. Bad WTS light. If no P0381 code the ECM is brain dead.

Stainless Diesel is I think 1,049 HP on fuel only on SO VP44.

Regardless it being pulled gear lube isn't going to fix it. Gear oil would make all gears grind. Clutch is not it. 1st, 2nd, and 5th work fine. 3rd grinds 100% of the time, 4th only at highway speeds it grinds. Still under warranty still. Hence why I'm pulling it. Also trans was warranty with the Mobil 50. Even then it's covered.

ECM does not ground through the body. ECM is grounded to the passenger side battery directly. Hence the WT ground wire mod,

I know there are several people here with deep pockets and can do anything. My clutch is new already (Dual disc Valair) which I hate nasty launch chatter. It's worse than my old single ConOFE South Bend. But I own it for now. These are the syncros from way back on the first rebuild when I broke the mainshaft back at 250k miles or so. Lots of both highway and city driving. (Broken the mainshaft right at 3rd and 4th gear with Edge Comp and stock injectors) Then the other thing most don't know is @Wet Vette is have heart issues so that kept me from working this last month with running back and forth to ER and the hospital in Boise. Then @MoparMom has skin cancer and dementia starting. Which now is taking more of my working time for her appointments here soon. Which all these affect what I've got for income and what I can repair. But hey I did have a thread stated talking about my crazy life but I got complaints about it so it was deleted. But then there people thinking I'm living the high life and no worries in the world... Far from true...

No, I was cheap and lacking funds and told him just repair whats broken. Abe @ Weller Truck only opened the rear cover and just repaired 5th gear. If I would of order a full kit like this time I would of got it. So I paid for being cheap and not having a fat income like most others here on the forum. Trust me its not the oil. Knowing that my clutch was also worn out I had to balance between repair of the transmission and the clutch hence why no full rebuild. Most of you have to remember I live off of less than $10,000 a year. I'm sure most you make 3 times or 5 times this much. If I'm driving for my Mom 3 days a week for dialysis. Then trying to work the other 3 days and taking 1 day off on Sunday. People tend to forget I'm not working a normal 5 day a week paying job. Any way I'm out of Mobil 50 nothing left.

Better look at other Cummins engines most all of them are on the block. All the Cummins engines used in Dodge and Ram truck are on the side of the engine block. Heat, vibration never been an issue. Biggest issue is the AC noise from the alternator and the ground wiring which there is a W-T ground wire mod. I'm at 407k miles and still rolling. @dripley is nearly 500k miles and still rolling.

Leave it on the block nothing gained by moving.

@cajflynn is our record holder at 1.3 million miles on a 53 block 2nd Gen. Oil changes every 20k miles.

Tie rods ends for me last 350k miles with the factory OEM stuff. Ball joints are still going after 200k miles something I bought on RockAuto for super cheap.

Price of gasoline drop hard in Idaho. $2.479 to $2.559 a gallon vs $3.259 or $3.459 a gallon for diesel. Not to mention I've gotta pull the transmission again. Weller truck only rebuilt 5th gear. All the other gear have worn syncros. I use a lot of 3rd and 4th in the city. Now between all that is going on here with medical issues and weather I'm delayed on pull the transmission. I can't be zero'ed out. The odometer goes to 999,999 miles and then stops right there. You would have to send the cluster in to be zero by a rebuilder. @cajflynn is the one that found that out.

My mother (MoparMom) has to have dialysis treatment every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. That trip is 125 miles one way, 250 miles to return home. Then any extra miles doing grocery shopping, medical appointments, etc. So last time I checked I've been running about 1,000 to 1,200 miles a week. What I've got to deal with... 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 for now...

Valvoline 15w-40, NAPA 15w-40, or Chevron Delo 15w-40 Typically using NAPA Gold Filter Roughly 62,400 miles a year. Currently 407k miles and counting... Already had the head off and cylinders still looked good at 350k miles when the coolant jacket blew on the head gasket at the rear of the head.

I'm running 10,000 change intervals but using standard petroleum oils. Only keep my oil for roughly 1.5 month to 2 month at the Maximum time which in that time I've cover 10,000 miles. Roughly 1,200 miles a week.

Dead pedal with P012x error code is APPS sensor.

Not the only time I've seen that happen. Lots of people jump to mechanical pumps then it hits with lack of prime or air leak and the mechanical pump won't reprime or pump till it refilled with fuel. Remember I work with many people not just here on the web site. I do work in two different shops and many different vehicles. You might have that covered with a CAT filter but most just keep the stock filter.

Just wait till the day you have an air leak or lose prime while you out... You'll never get it started.