Mopar1973Man

That's the problem I would say for longevity sake to go towards a thicker lube so it clings to the bearings and gears more. Most 6 speed owners will whine about shift performance. Like using a thin oil in the engine will reduce engine drag and make starting easy but will not protect well in high temperatures. Thin oils will be flung from parts much easier. Being there is no oil pump in NV5600 its all about splash feeding and cling of the oil to protect. Like myself I ditch the whole spec thing and started looking for other solutions for lube oils in both NV4500 and NV5600. I dropped the 75w-85 for straight 50 SAE fluid which is actually straight 90 gear lube. So the factory fluid for the NV4500 is like a 10w-40 engine oil. NV5600 like Pennzoil syncromesh doesn't list a viscosity but it's classified as to thin to make the GL-4 spec. The 75w-85 makes the GL-4 spec. That means the PennzOil is thinner than what is listed. I can say that as long as the lube oil meet a GL-4 spec it should work. GL-4 spec is for all transmissions with syncros (yellow metal or synthetic). Just remember that these gear boxes under serious loads can surpass the 200 to 220*F of fluid temps and with a thin oil getting thinner I can see where the 6 speed failures come from. Remember there is no oil pump just splash feed oiling. Just always remember that Dodge is willing to drain and fill both NV4500 and NV5600 with ATF+4 now. I know that is super thin and does not meet the GL-4 spec at all.

Preheat is controlled by the IAT sensor. Post heat is controlled by the battery temp sensor

The problem I see with NV5600 transmission... Even one keeps leaning on the thinner fluids (what spec suggests) by under load and temperature the fluid is thinner and fluid isn't thick enough to cling to bearings in the heat. Why they have bearing failures and need to over fill. Just remember PennzOil Syncromesh is too thin to make the GL-4 rating. Other than that its build on GL-4 technology just the oil is just too thin to be labelled as such. Just like Dodge Dealers filling with ATF now. Shift quality is super good but the protection of bearings and such suck because the lube is too thin.

I've got all Felpro from the head up. No issues here.

No. I've got barely 2 cords of wood split and stacked. Going to be a tight winter for heating. I'm hoping my horse trading works out and I get 2 more cords of wood split from doing a heater core in 3rd Gen.

TPS value doesn't hold any meaning really. It the engine load that holds value. Engine load is the amount of fuel being spray vs. injector pop pressure.

MN... IIRC is 5% bio fuel state. Biodiesel is high in Vet and and requires timing to backed down or retarded slightly to reduce the ignition knock.

You need to do research on your local fuels and when the winterized fuel starts and when it ends. Then find out with the cloud point is and the pour point. This will get you away from worrying about anti-gel products. To this day I've never used any anti-gel products and never gelled up yet. Even with winter temps as low as -40*F. Make sure you stick to the quality fuels during the winter time. Avoid biofuels if possible.

I had this argument about 10 years ago over on CF. People thinking like a gasser where the fuel and air must be mixed perfect. Diesels are very wide bandwidth of fuel to air ratio. This includes shutting down fuel completely. The other thing we are experimenting with is higher than normal pop pressures for efficiency and longevity purpose. So far a handful of us have tested quit a span of pressure. Stock is 310 (4,500 PSI) bar. I'm running 320 bar (4,641 PSI) at 20 to 22 MPG @Me78569 ran 330 bar (4786 PSI) and was hitting seriously good MPGs. The upper end of the spec is 327 bar (4,750 bar) for information purpose. Few others went as high as 360 bar and found starting issues. The longevity part is if stock is 310 bar you only get to 293 bar (4,250 PSI) and your below spec for Dodge FSM book. About 280 bar (4,061 PSI) and things change, smoke increase, MPG is lower, etc. With the 320 bar I'm running I'm hoping to touch about 100k to 150k miles on the injectors before replacing. With some injector builders they will pop lower like 300 or 305 bar to increase fuel flow. Makes for poor atomization of the fuel. This is great for racing but not good for MPG. Lower the pop pressure the earlier the injection event occurs (advanced timing). When you increase the pop pressure say to 320 bar the ECM has to command fuel more to get the injector to even open. This tend to occur slightly later. (Retarded timing). Now using the Quadzilla Adrenaline you can make up for the offset in timing by just building a tune for those injectors. Optimally for MPG purposes you want the lowest engine load or commanded fuel. I typically float about 17% engine load at 65 MPH. With extremely cool EGT's at 550 to 600*F.

Just remember you going to sacrifice street performance and MPG going to mechanical. I would personally keep the electronics and the VP44. There is no way you can get better street performance with static timing and old school technology. So far all the people here that I know that swapped out no longer drive the vehicle because of too many issues and ended up buying 4th gen to get away from the headaches. Then quit driving the truck because it got way expensive now guessing on how to fix the franken-truck.

If so then there would be a error code or the sensors will not match at cold engine key on. Just take a live data tool or Quadzilla key on and look at the IAT and ECT they should match or very close. Excessively cold ECT only sensor will change idle speed. IAT will do nothing to idle speed. IAT only controls timing and grid heaters.

Yup normal. ECM can cut fuel to zero to drop RPM quickly.

First remove the switch reset the codes and make sure there is no IAT or ECT codes. If none are found then hook it back up and and test its function. As for the P0380 and P0382 those are grid heater solenoid issues or wiring issues to the grid heaters. P0236 typically is a boost fooler issue your tuner isn't boost fooling correctly. If you remove the tuner and hook up stock again and the P0236 goes away then the tuner is at fault. That's if you have a tuner.

Today in my work load was my shop owner asking me to replace his water pump. Pretty straight forward. Got to the part of refilling the coolant in the system. I did like I normally do is remove the thermostat and fill when I popped thermostat out and the bypass flap is missing. Now this is the second Cummins thermostat seen fail.

Yes, if its in full defuel running down grade. VP44 has the ability to shut off fuel completely. These are not like a gas powered car which requires a prefect air fuel ratio. Diesel can cut fuel on down hills. No it won't stall the ECM will rise up keep it running. Another time this will happen is when your injectors are too fair gone. Like I've got @mr.obvious has his showing 0% engine load because the injectors are popping so low that the ECM is attempting to cut fuel deeply to hold the 800 RPM but it cannot do it. His idle is at 810 to 820 RPM. This is a Injectors that are purely worn out need replacing. Normal good injectors should see 5% to 10% engine load or 204 to 409 fueling command on the quad. It appears your injectors are wiped out. Minimum pop is 293 bar I'm betting your below 260 bar now. Just for fun my 7 x 0.010 injectors are popped at 320 bar. My idle engine load is 10 to 13% (409 to 532)/ typically but as they wear I'm seeing lows now of 7%. (286).

Like for mine 0 to 20 PSI is good beyond 20 PSI it goes out the window. Where my boost gauge shows 47 PSI Quadzilla will report 67 to 69 PSI. I'm sure my small 60/60/12 turbo cant do that much.

Either way the MAP sensor accuracy isn't the greatest. Best to opt for a boost gauge than trying to read the MAP sensor.

Mine failed and left me struggling for a fuel station at 3/8 of a tank. New float assembly and back to normal and reading correctly.

APPS sensor most likely wearing out.

Kind of like buying a Cummins thermostat for high dollar wanting quality to find out its a cheap Mr. Gasket or Robertshaw thermostat.

Actually a bad ECT sensor reading low will cause high idle. IAT sensor does noting but jack up timing more hence the high idle switch, but if the software is enabled it should cancel after 170°F the resume normal idle at 800 RPM.

Geez... I get up in the morning its 6 to 15°F in the morning. Might warm up to 30°F. This is basically all minus numbers for our Canada folks.

94 to 98 does not have an ECM. Its a standalone engine. Ill be found similar setup up soon. Shoving a 6BT Cummins in a 47 Chevy panel wagon. Getting the goodies together. Electrically need power for the fuel solenoid and the starter that all.

Module masters in Moscow, Idaho can repair cluster if needed. This isn't the first one I've seen.

No makes it worse. Best off installing a protection fuse on the blue wire. Then send the PCM out for repair. External regulators tend to over or under charge more because there is no battery temp sensor. This depend on where the regulator is mounted. Too cold over charge, too hot under charge.