Mopar1973Man

You must got to the menu select Data Logging. Then while the engine is still running export the data logs to a email. Then when you get the email you can shut down the truck. Then view the data logs. Once you shut down the Quadzilla no longer holds the data.

EVIC now shows...

The fly on the wall and watching the thread... 7 x 0.010 up to 7 x 0.012 hmmm...

Well not far off from my 102 foot pounds that my flywheel was torqued too.. Thank @Dynamic !!

Question what is the acronym EVIC stand for? (Gonna add it to the acronym database).

Like on my manual (clutch install) its 102 foot/pounds for the flywheel. @Dynamic would know exactly what is a good number.

That why I say rule of thumb... Doesn't away fit exactly but gives a good idea of what the person is capable of making. Like @dieselautopower pointed out he's only making 65 PSI but over 1,000 HP to the wheels.

There is exactly what was done. Still cheaper than any 6 speed rebuild... I'll get pictures of the broke stuff I brought it all home.

I left this morning to head down for the transmission. Total bill for the rebuild.$1,547.00 Some upgrade... No carbon fiber syncro's. All Brass syncros. Failure is two fold we figure. 1. Is the pilot bearing coming out of the flywheel ruined most of the front bearings and the mainshaft. The pilot bearing ruined the clutch and the bearings on the front end. 2. The 5th gear failure we both think because last rebuild the lower (larger gear) was replaced last time. Then the upper gear on the mainshaft was the OEM with 392k miles and 90% of my travels are in 5th gear so the metal got fatigue and strip a large amount of teeth off the upper smaller gear dropping the debris into the lower gear doing more damage as it did. I got home about 4:30pm from Boise, ID. I managed to install the Valair Dual Disc Clutch and get the transmission stabbed by 7:30pm. I'm going to quit for now and fix my transfer case. The washer that fell out last time. Then install the rest of the remaining parts. Sling of ratchet straps worked like a dream again. Got it off the floor and then strapped to the floor jack. Lifted and just push it in the hole with little effort. Thread the 4 bolt in to ride on and wiggled a bit more and BAM! Seated like it was meant too.

One of the few reasons I like the Stealth Plate over conventional tapping of the pump. Is the Edge Comp used? Is it the right series (early 2nd gen or late 2nd gen).

I know DAP will pop injectors to anything you wish. I can't speak for other builders I've heard 3rd hand that some are only their way or the highway. At least have them repopped under warranty.

Remember there VP44 body and the fuel filter housing is aluminum and takes very little torque to ruin the threads. I've seen this happen where owner said it was weeping and tighten more and ruin the threads in the VP44. He had already torqued it enough to tear up the rubber seal washer. If it was all steel parts different story. Steel fitting in a aluminum body don't take that much.

I'll do it again. Normal floor jack and no adapter plates or weird stuff. Just a single ratchet strap. As for getting the transmission off the floor that is easy too. Two ratchet strap and sling it up in the air. Then place your floor jack and use that single ratchet strap to hold on the jack. Raise into position. Best if the truck is flat on the ground. Even got a board rigged for even G56 transmissions. Auto or manual you can do single ratchet strap.

Rule of thumb. For every 1 PSI of boost is roughly flywheel +10 HP. Just the jump from the HX35 to the HX35/40 Hybrid was a fairly big increase of CFM flow. Boost never changed. Still the same 45-47 PSI roughly. I do hit the choke point on a performance tune where my economy tune the choke point isn't an issues at all. Quadzilla give you the ability to tune for your hardware.

Timing on the 1500 band slide it down 1 degree. Injector issues. Rather common for most builders to set for 300 bar or 305 bar. This will improve flow but shortens the life span of the injector and the MPG are typically lower as a result. Like myself I went up in pop pressure to 320 bar for MPG and longevity reasons. 310 bar is stock injector pop pressure. 293 bar is the bottom limit. Most injectors can drop 10 bar in mere 10k to 20k miles just settling or breaking in.

Yeah that is a 3rd Gen truck looks like a early 3rd gen like 03 ot 04 realm. @Evan driving a older Kenworth eh?

Just remember to put even less torque on the JIC nut. Really sucks when you go to unscrew the nut of the JIC fitting and it unscrews the male fitting out of the VP44. Then you got to separate the fitting and the JIC nut.

Could be injection pump issue but I'm not going to point that direction yet. Now using a live data tool like OBDLink LX or ScanGauge II at key on you want to look at both ECT (coolant temp) and IAT (intake temp) should match. If IAT is lower than normal timing is advanced. If the IAT is higher than normal then the timing will be retarded. Typically at key on the two values match (no block heater). Now during driving, fully warmed up the IAT will be about +40*F over outside temperature. This is just a rule of thumb. ECT should be in the 190 to 200*F range normally fully warmed up. These two temperatures can affect timing. Then how many miles on the injectors? If the injectors have over 100k miles then the injectors could be popping too low. 293 bar is the bottom limit for injectors according to the Dodge FSM. Just my factory stock injectors at 150k miles where as low as 260 bar, still ran good, fuel mileage was down but still functional. Just because it runs doesn't mean it spraying fuel with a good pattern and atomization could be poor.

Why not? That was Dodge OEM parts. Oh, that's right OEM isn't what it was 17 years ago. I would. Winter is coming and 4WD usage will go up and sucks to do these in the cold.

Out here 99% your solo on the highway night driving and winter weather. High beams, and driving lights are a must. LED Light Bars. Not cool. Very blinding..

Edge Comp and Hot Rod Pump. Too much timing, too advanced. Should never run a tuner on a Hot Rod Pump which is stacking timing being the Hot Rod Pump has added timing mechanically and then the Edge Comp is stacking more on top. Then to make matters worse the Edge Comp has no adjustment to retard some timing. If you switch the Comp for Quad that could be fixed. P0380 and P0382 is grid heaters like Dave said. Just that if the wires are hooked up it could be the solenoids are wore out. If you live in a non-smog area and warm climate then you can ignore this and the truck will be fine it not a requirement for operation in warm states down south. Ohio well, you might need it for the winter time. P0237 code. Pull the Edge Comp lead and return to stock and erase the codes. If the codes remains away then the Edge Comp boost fooler is damaged and will need to be replaced. Which could be a good thing and fix the shutter problem above.

That is why I liked the wider angle of the D2S lens. I've got the same problem lots of early morning and early evening deer and elk. Like last night there was a deer stand right next to the guard rail of the highway. Lot of times they stand right in the road side ditch. With standard headlight this area is very dimly lit with any light. Like my 1996 with clear lens headlight and SilverStar halogen have that same stockish problem plenty of light on the highway road edge is will rather dim in light if any at all. This is mostly the poor quality of the headlight housing its self. If I wanted better pattern I would be continuing to change housing till I got a good pattern. Bulb's won't do anything but make it bright in the same pattern since the reflector won't change.

Then some of us Dodge wise have NEVER had death wobble. Neither the 96 or 02 Dodge Rams have had a death wobble problem ever. Shocking to see a military vehicle of this size to have death wobble as bad as it was.

Very impressive lights all ganged together. Plenty of light to navigate down the road the forest you are traveling through.

When warm up mode it use the Quadzilla locks to the level 0 as the warm up feature keep the fuel map locked to 0 PSI value till it reaches the set temperature. Then the level returns back to your set level and the high idle is disabled. Like @Me78569 said its designed that way to to pull the level down to 0 and use the high idle in level 0.