Mopar1973Man

Just for information value. From the Dodge FSM. 310 Bar is equal to 4,500 PSI +/- 250 PSI is equal to 293 (4250 PSI) bar to 327 bar (4,750 PSI). I know this is what the Dodge FSM states. What Bosch ESI Tronic states a different number and span.

I found another secret I've got to share with the group. For guys with manuals or not using the transmission temp sender. Remove the test plug on the oil filter housing and then install the transmission temperature sender. The secret found. If you want to find out if your over advancing timing its is super simple. Measure the engine oil temperature. When I started I was roughly +10°F over the coolant temperature. I was starting to test MPG in different RPM ranges. Found the lower bands tend to run hot oil wise and tend to be a bit low in MPG number still. After figuring out a new timing map now I'm roughly 20°F below coolant temperature on the flat highway run. If coolant is 197°F it can run 178°F to 181°F in oil temperature now. Since advancing the timing tends to burn more in the cylinder the block coolant was rising quite a bit and trapping more heat in the engine oil. Dropped 2° of timing in the 1,500 RPM range and this flipped the other direction to -20°F cooler. Worth it to install the sensor in the engine oil port. Remember... When you seeing heat that is a percentage of work energy turned into heat. The more you can trim off the heat in every device right down to the rear axle this means more power being put to the ground efficiently.

Now seeing the photos it looks like headliner material that they used. Foam backed fabric. I was thinking of recovering that piece with something else like vinyl.

Might want to post in the forum for better exposure.

Wrong switch. It should be the rotary switch 3 position (or 3 position with pull out knob). The pull out switch stopped in 1998 and 1999 went to rotary switch.

Simple version. Unhook the grid heater power wire from the driver side battery. Controlled version grab a Ford Starter solenoid. Now wire the factory grid heater lead through the solenoid to the +12V. Now the smaller terminals wire in a switch to keyed 12V power. This will control if the solenoid is on or off. That's it.

Just for information... Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP) HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 Injectors (150 HP) @ 320 bar. I daily drive this truck a 1,000 miles a week and run just nearly smoke free.

Here is the wiring diagram. Then here is the CCD network article.

293 bar is the lower limit for injectors. Below this the spray is not as good and larger drops and less fine mist.

Normal setup no air baffles. Most likely not charged correctly. Check after full warm up if the compressor is cycling. If so it needs to be charged.

Send a PM to @pepsi71ocean.

@Me78569 is 100% correct. Your at you limits with Smarty S-03.

Food for thought Blue Top does some of the work for Redhead IIRC.

Won't hapoen at least for me.

Member here on M73M which happens to be @dorkweed he ran his CR engine 80k plus miles on a single oil change on WalMart SuperTech 15w-40 and Fleetguard filters and a MotorGuard bypass filter. Was testing every 7k with blackstone and no issues till somewhere around 80k miles silicone was up from doing valve lash. He did the same thing change filters and topped off.

I wonder how I got to 385k miles without 2 LO all these years? Only on my second clutch. Hmmm...

Mine looked pretty darn good. When the head was off the cylinder wall were in excellent condition except for on cylinder that had a debris rub the cylinder wall enough that you can see color difference but not feel it. You can see it in number 4 cylinder. 385k miles on the clock and rolling 1,000 miles a week.

Because a rebuilder cannot set everything up in a loaded condition. In other words making the final adjustment taking the slack out. Even had the same thing happen with Blue Top Steering. I have to tighten the sector adjustment a 1/4 turn more. Hard to test on a bench test and then install to a truck and find there is some slack. They don't have a truck to bench test on. Stock steering box only has two adjustment which are listed right in the FSM book. Sector adjustment and bearing pre-load. Those are the only 2 adjustments. Typically the sector adjustment is left too loose to prevent over the center bind up.

I rebuilt numerous Ford ,Dodge and Chevy steering box they are easy as pie. The only thing that is time consuming is getting the 22 ball bearing back into the worm gear. That is it...

Fuel filters are like oil filters anything poured into the center hole is unfiltered. This why I will not fill oil filter or a fuel filter before installing. Even though many shops still fill the filters before installing. It only takes a little bit of debris and it will do its harm to the engine or the injection pump. The only way you can fill a filter without the worry is fill through the side ring holes which is the filter inlet or don't fill it at all and use the pump to prime or priming lever. Even if you ask @AH64ID he will tell you the same thing. I have been getting 60k miles from my fuel filters now.

Other bills first, then back to upgrading.

You might want to talk to @Blue-Top Steering He's got rebuild kits that allow you to do it yourself. Really easy.

Dang... I love all these weird trip switches. The Jacobs Brake uses the ECM for the trigger there is an empty pin on the plug that you insert into and it toggles the exhaust brake on and off.

I never fill the filter with canned diesel it dirty fuel and unfiltered. That is the first thing to the injection pump. I always work the primer lever or the prime cycle on the key to fill the filter back up.

Yeah, we care around here and would like to see you make the million miles on your truck. You still out ahead of me. Stay there...