Mopar1973Man

That's been cracked for quite a while. The thin bright spot is the last metal to fail. There is considerable rust in the face of the rest of the tapered stud. Kind of like how the mainshaft in my transmission failed. Just bad metal had a weakness when the part was made.

Interesting. I've not seen CAT TDTO fluids around here but I guess I should look around.

At least for the 50 weight I'm running I've noticed the Mobil 50 darkens way quicker than the Valvoline 50 weight I'm using right now. Seriously though I think people are holding tight to the thin lubes like the 75w-85 on the 5-speed and PennzOil Syncromesh which is TOO THIN to make the GL-4 grade. Then when you are adding horsepower you need to thicken the lubes in the axles and transmission to prevent damage to the hard facing of the gears.

Come on squeeze the last little bit out of it and get another 10 more degrees. I'm at roughly 160 out of the center vents. But yes I tend to agree with @Tractorman I think you won that battle.

Very impressive job so far. PLEASE @Doubletrouble make sure you do a write-up for this I'm sure there are other NV4500 users who want to know how to do the rebuild and where you ordered your parts.

Color means nothing. Being coolant could look fresh out of the bottle and have a pH of less than 5.0 and oxidized metals that settled in the bottom of the block. Now on high Rev operation those solids could be pushed into the core tubes of the heater core and radiator. Then the only way to clean this up is rodding out the heater core and radiator. This is even possible with distilled water being used.

PSG on the VP44 is shot. Most likely AC noise issues.

LOL. Others got hit that evening. @IBMobile @IBMOBILE-JEN @Doubletrouble @MUDDY and few others not part of the website. As for today, I've got to get the last 2 injectors out of the head throw in my old core set here which are better than I pulled out and see if the exhaust gases stop in the fuel tank. This will verify the head isn't cracked at all.

Had a very quiet day at home. Then a friend down the road brought both Mark and me got dinner from their family. Thanks go out to Andrew and Taz for dinner last night wonderful eats!

So I just figured out that I'm going to do a quick test of the head by trading out these injectors for a set of old core injectors I've got here to just see if the compression gases come back to the fuel tank being these haven't been abused or carboned up like the set that came out. I'll keep you all posted. Today is Thanksgiving Today I'm just posting thoughts and now going to be lazy for the day. Watch out some of you might get a phone call from me.

Just kicking around for T day. Being lazy. Happy T day to you all.

After getting the valve cover off and pulled the 8mm bolts holding injectors those bolts were loose. Then took a lot of force to pull number one out. The injector was carboned in place. No copper washer. I've got a fight with 5 and 6 yet to pull out of the head. The truck came in with a complaint of pressure in the fuel tank and spitting fuel out the filler neck. Mark just found the copper washer buried in the carbon build up. Managed dig out.

The output speed sensor could be it then being the speed sensor could cause the transmission to downshift randomly way lower than it should because it thinks the speed is much lower.

Never seen any diode in the electrical of any Dodge as of yet. But even then that would only affect the electrical of a device but will not have any effect on the coolant flow or heat production of the HVAC system. Be aware the only way to clean a heater core completely requires the removal of the heater core and opening of the tank heads running a stainless steel rod through all the core tubes and soldering closed again. Yes, I've done this in the past with old brass heater cores but with aluminum cores, you are not going to be able to do this trick like I did in the 70's and 80's.

Most people get a remote mount filter base and use a good 3 micron filter and then like a 100 micron prefilter before the Raptor. The problem with the Raptor is there is no return line back to the tank so the pressure regulator will tend to cavitate some being it recirculates the fuel back to the inlet side of the pump. So basically you need to find what spin-on filter you wish to use and get the proper base for those filters. The easiest way would be to have a full AirDog 150 or 165 then the filter problem is resolved. The full AirDog with the return line will route the air and foam away from the fuel system and then allow for polishing of the fuel since a majority is returned to the tank being it's cycled multiple passes then it will pick up more debris on every pass. I'm also running the factory fuel filter too. I've got a 7 micron NAPA filter in the stock can and 3 micron on the AirDog. The best part is I change fuel filters every 60k to 70k miles. The fuel is not being drawn from the sender basket and from the main pool of fuel which is a much cooler fuel temperature and doesn't create asphaltenes which typically occur around 140 to 150*F fuel temperatures.

First off welcome to the family. Then the next thing I'm going to suggest is to do the W-T ground wire mod. This should fix the erratic shift and whatnot. Make sure to remove any noise filters and any weird ground wires added they will not be needed. The only other thing to look at possibly replacing is the output speed sensor typically in the tail shaft of the transmission.

Well, I guess you are going to be doing a full inspection of the ball joints and tie rod ends. Highly suggested. As for start up issues. Check the injector o-rings, crossover o-rings, return tee in the back of the engine or any weeping injector lines.

I already handle this one. Since he is right there with my mods I gave him my tune and surprised him.

How about injectors? How much mileage on them? Being a injector that is popping at the wrong time of poor spray pattern could produce an uneven pulse to the turbo. Exhaust manifold leaking or cracked? Again the pulses (drive pressure) could be wasted to the leaking exhaust manifold and create problems. Down pipe most likely won't affect the performance but a leaking exhaust would just create the noise being its after the turbo.

Supply is the hose coming from the head. Pull the hose off and check to see if the fitting is plugged up. Also, it could be the heater core is plugged up and not flowing. This will all the coolant flow to slow and cool in hoses. It's only a loop from the head fitting through the heater core to the return to the steel pipe heading to the water pump. Any restriction will reduce heater performance. 99% of the time the heater core is to blame because of a lack of coolant flushes.

Ummm... Might be careful making too thick...

I would rather have a proper fluid than use a product that's too thin and have to add other products to protect the gears. Like Mobil 50 or Valvoline 50 is designed for Eaton Fuller 10 Speed manual transmissions used in over-the-road trucks. So, that would be like the PennzOil Syncromesh that people use which is actually too thin to make the GL-4 grade. In this case, people would be making up for the overly thin PennzOil Syncromech with Lucas additives. The more HP/TQ you make the thicker the fluids have to be to protect the gears teeth and the bearings. Thin fluids may be desired for smooth shifting and to this day I've not had a single issue with shift quality in my NV4500 running 50 SAE Transmission fluid. Then there is Valvoline 75w-90 which is rated both GL-4 and GL-5 which is a no-no why? Because GL-5 will cause damage to the syncros.

No ATF. I had to flush mine out I got it done 4 days after. The seals in the system may not be compatible with ATF. 1989 to 2002 is all power steering fluid. No ATF. 2003 to current are all ATF systems. Why? Dodge dropped Saginaw steering gear for Ford Steering gear. In a nutshell power steering fluid is thicker viscosity wise compared to ATF. Power steering fluid is more like hydraulic oil.

When your buying ring terminals for the alternator don't go cheap and buy just larger crimp rings. Make sure to get a good copper ring for the alternator lead. I thought yesterday my alternator quit being the circuit breaker didn't trip neither did the fuse for the field wire. I kind of messed up yesterday and was trying a pop a rib out yesterday so I asked Mark to swap out the alternator with our donor truck here. He started pulling my alternator off and the charge lead fell off. The ring tore on one side and the rest of the ring wasn't strong enough to hold the current and poof! It melted and opened the circuit for charging. I highly suggest using copper terminals and good quality terminals that can handle the high current.

Because the smaller input gear has wear through the hardfacing of the gear teeth which get brittle and snaps off. First place it goes is down on the countershaft and gets mashed up which now breaks those teeth. I'm of a believer that the factory lube is just too thin. Look up above 75w-85 is equal to 10w-30 engine oil. My 50 SAE trans mission fluid is 90 weight gear. Better high temperature protection when towing or working the truck hard. Just consider the viscosity off the oil at 200 or 220°F oil temperatures.