Mopar1973Man

I would pull the starter open the solenoid section up and check the copper contacts. There is a starter solenoid fuse and relay in the PDC under the hood. I've seen the starter fuse crack and randomly work and fail. Same with the relay. On my OE starter from factory I've managed to burn out a few windings on the armature that created hard starts or no start conditions. Depending on transmission type... manuals have a clutch slide switch that may or may not provide trigger power to the starter relay. Autos use a different method but could still create starting issues if the column is not adjusted correctly. P0122 code is APPS sensor issue typically. P1693 is a flag code just point to the other computer ECM-> PCM or PCM -> ECM.

Dropped another 4 inches last night got up this morning at 5am for a bag draining house was black. Inverter batteries ran out and died at 24.0 Volts. At about 7:30am I wheeled my 6500w generator out used jumper cables to start the generator and plug in the house. I've got internet and cell phones again even though the entire valley is dead. Again I'm not worried I've got back up plans. As for the power outage it's my neighbor again one of his trees broke off and fell into the lines. As I sit here enjoy a hot cup of coffee while everyone else is still waiting for power. Power is still out and went out at about 3:30am.

Ohms decrease with wear and eventually vurn out being it reached near zero.

We will see. I'm not worried.

Sadly I don't have any of the charts. I always wished someone would build an article and provide the information for that. I understand how to set factory timing but custom timing requires special tools. Problem is with no way to retard you always have to balance your timing so you can launch without huge clouds of smoke and still efficient at highway speeds.

Minnie is starting to get buried where it's parked. Battery is dead and tires are worn out. Like I'm outside doing light work like sweeping the garage floor, Mark is plowing the driveway. Then Jakob is splitting and stacking wood on Beast.

Will this do? I'm up in McCall getting my dressings changed on my back. I fired up the security camera and did a screenshot for you. Ive got 2-3 inches roughly.

Either would be good. Sadly after see a Cummins head gasket de-lamination of the fiber material that peeled away from the steel gasket plate. Kind of like I never suggest Cummins thermostat either being Cummins doesn't make those either.

Beast is going for the long haul. Beast might need some repairs like my exhaust just fell off the rear tail section. Most of the pipe is rotten after 5 years of salted roads. So for a truck I bought back on my birthday in October 26th 2002 and Beast was 32,000 dollar truck with barely 43 miles on the odometer. I made a promise to my parents that before I did any modifications to this truck I would research everything before doing said modifications. Over all the years I've made a few mistakes but Beast today out performs most 2020's vehicles today. Sadly my family is no longer to witness my knowledge and growth in the diesel world. I have to say Thank you to all you now being I've claimed you as my family. Even with my current medical issues with my return of my cancer I have more faith in Beast to get me where I need to go. Beast might of been towed 3 times in nearly 500k miles but I always brought Beast back to life and always improved when I could. Thank you all and Thank you Beast for taking Mr where I need to go.

You'll have to wait for my picture being its dark now. I'll wait and see if I can get a nice morning sunrise photo which is later in the morning than you @Tractorman. I sit in this hole in the ground.

I know the moon is 238,000 miles roughly to the moon. If you double that is 476,000 miles to the moon and back. Now time to load Beast back up and head back to the moon. Again another 238,000 miles.

Wider tires tend to float on top of ice and slush. This is my reason I keep going down in size which now pushes the tread face down through the ice and slush. I will admit wider tires in mud and sand work really well. Then again wide tires on snow and ice tend float. Front axle scale weight is 4,440 pounds and the rear axle is 2860 pounds. The truck total weight is 7300 pounds. Best to scale your truck to get these numbers. As for the tires they are Hankook AT2 245/75 R16 tires rated at 3042 pounds at 80 PSI. Front axle 4440 ÷ 2 = 2220 ÷ 3042 = 0.7297830375 × 80 PSI = 58.382643 PSI (60 PSI) Rear Axle 2860 ÷ 2 = 1430 ÷ 3042 = 0.4700854701 × 80 PSI = 37.606837608 PSI (40 PSI) Be aware there is different math for dually rear axles. Truck GVWR limit 8800 pounds if I inflate to 60 PSI all the way around I can carry the full 8800 pounds on the 4 tires never be close to even a blow out.

Yeah like my conversation on the phone you need to ohm out the 2 positive terminals to the ground terminal. I know the ohms are super low value like 0.6 ohms on that grid heater. I know as the grid heater ages the ohm value goes down continually till the grid heater is like a dead short. I'm kind of interested to see the grid heater when you pull it off. Did the element crack and open or did something else happen?

Kind of like myself I'm not ready for winter driving back and forth for my chemo treatments either. Right now I'm trying to sort out where I can stay down in the Boise valley soon so I can save the travel back and forth. Same token I'm trying to prepare my laptop and devices so I can pack up and be ready for what is coming at me next.

Most likely too much timing on the P-Pump. I had to learn with my VP44 and Quadzilla you can't have high timing while building boost. Cylinder pressures rise and the head gasket will fail. You should have a good deep retard on launch and building boost then once cruise state is reached the hop back to high timing. Sadly this is a huge limitation of the P-Pump. Yeah I'm running about 24 to 25 degrees BTDC at 2,000 RPMs in a cruise state. Now squeeze in the throttle and timing drops to 18 BTDC at 2k RPMs. Yeah I'm even running ARP 425 studs but being I miss tuned and was using too much timing while building boost it lifted the head. The other thing after a second Cummins gasket delaminated too I'll never use a Cummins head gasket any longer being Cummins does NOT manufacture the gasket but a company in China called BLK that makes Cummins head gaskets.

Just for info purpose. With my 245/75 R16 with a rating of 3042 at 80 PSI Front axle needs 60 PSI and the rear axle 40 PSI. Then to be able to carry the full 8800 pound rating I need 60 PSI all the way around. I do have the math formula how you can get tire pressures from axle weights.

Pushing back into 2WD is a sign of the shaft bearings being worn out so the shaft is moving forward and backward so it's shifting in this manner. I would just pull it down and see about getting a rebuild kit and rebuilding. If not you can figure the price of the transfer case is about 1,800 to 2,200 dollars with a hefty core charge of about 500 dollars.

Yup I'm getting snow today. Not much got about an inch so far.

Economy. People are looking for more FREE answers to their problems. I can't do that any longer. Consider the Mopar1973Man.Com is the LAST privately owned Cummins Diesel Forum in the World. Like Cummins Forum is owned by Vertical Scope Inc out of Canada. Diesel Bombers is owned by Internet Brands Inc. I've got no corporation backing me or paying the bills. The subscription system keeps the bills paid in the basic sense. Yes I know there is like 95% more traffic if I let all the free people return but then no one wants to invest any money into the site because why pay if you can get the info for free? So this now comes around to the quality of the information here on the site having better value than most other sites so now people are more willing to dive in and pay the small 10 a month knowing there is a whole pool of like-minded people that want to help fix your problem. Just remember this is the 5% of the pile that sees the true value of the site here. Now I've managed to have a 4.5 hour conversation with a member here just a couple of nights ago. Yeah, it was the strangest thing that ever happened to me. @hdph1957 tried to make a purchase on the store and when he PM'ed me I called him back to let him know the store is broken currently. Well during this tag team phone conversation, there is so much that we talked about for that 4.5 hours. Well, I would like to say that I'm going to get him to help out with cleaning up pages and getting the content cleaned up and readable. Yesterday was a long day for me. I managed to make the drive to Lewiston and get the food and supply shopping done. Yeah, I'm a bit worn out this morning but I know I'll end up having to take a nap at some point today. Even last night was a bit rough night for sleep so the up-and-down nights just make for slow days. I'm ok with that. Just like today it's OK to sit here on the couch and let my fingers do the typing and letting people know I'm still here I'm still going. @JAG1 you might want to do a Google search for "mopar1973man" and then look at the Google Reviews of the website there are several stating that this is the place to come for all 2nd Gen information on the Cummins 6BT and ISB engines. Like today I'm going to try and get some things fixed with the store and then be able to get that rolling again. I've got to see if I can shave off another 200 to 500ms of the server times to reach my old performance levels on the previous server I had. I'm close now but I want that winning timing so we can be the #1 Cummins Forum in all the topics I can be.

I'm trying to get them back into production. You just got to hang in there.

Just an update to this info. I'm increasing coolant to a 200°F thermostat that could swing to 210°F which now brings my oil temp up maybe 174°F engine oil temp that is in the winter with winter fronts in the grill. IAT is up to 90°F in the winter cold and running very little boost like 2-3 PSI at 65 MPH. But even with my tune I'm running 24-25° degrees at 2k RPMs. EGTs are lower and MPGs are up.

Here watch this it explain how the rich hide behind climate change. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZPRcuawFs/

Maybe for you but I've got normal temperatures here in Idaho just little late on snow fall. Heck we have already seen zero degrees in New Meadows just a few days ago. Again do your own study get you own measurements of weather. Turn off the TV quit listening to the Climate Change hype. It's not happening. If you having warm temperatures we are not so this is not GLOBAL in any way. https://www.weather.gov/wrh/timeseries?site=KMYL

What's so alarming? The weather not breaking records all the time. The oceans are not rising. Then CO2 levels are so low that I'd it gets any lower below 0.03% all plants will die. We are currently 0.04% of CO2 content in the atmosphere. Weather broadcast that the big media produce hype the numbers using colors to make the climate change seem real. But as I found out even in Europe they do the same thing and someone posted previous year and this years temps which were the SAME. The difference was they highlight the numbers more red. So do me a favor now when you start to worry about climate go out and prove the changes by looking up historic data. That I know you can't do because all weather data is locked up and no public can do their own study this way the govt can keep the narrative going of climate change. Go look for yourself. It's the truth. @JAG1 do yourself a favor and turn off the TV and go get you own weather station and do your own study.

Heck I had zero water for irrigation and my lawn last summer fried to a burn crisp. Then the fall rains came and every came back like if the Good Lord had his own plans. Even right now my water line is cut up in 4 places which will need to be repaired this spring. I don't listen to the media hype of "climate change" or "global warming" this has been proven to be all fake man made BS so the govt can tax us more for fossil fuels for a fake problem. No I'm not worried about winter being late iv3 seen this several times. Nothing new here.