Mopar1973Man

I always put the seal back in the same position. This way the wear groove lines up with the dust lip and the seal lip is back in the smooth spot. Never leaked on my truck. Now if you do the sleeve you must change the seal and sleeve together being the different dimensions. Also be aware when removing a sleeve is a PITA because you have to score it with a chisel and hopefully get behind it with a small screwdriver to hopefully tear it in half. I avoid using sleeves if at all possible being it just makes the next seal change a PITA later to do. I typically get the NAPA crank seal with the tapered installing tool that way you don't tear up the seal lip trying to get it over the crank tip which I'm kind of betting you tore the seal lip. Be aware it suppose to be installed DRY! NO LUBE!

Would of seen it in the boost value on the Quadzilla. Possibly a code could be present.

So you need to go to NAPA and get a pigtail for the that MAP sensor. Dielectric grease is known for collecting grit too.

Hmmm. At least out here with salt the bearings fail quicker being you can't push the salt out of the bearings. I might get 50k from a seal u-joint because of salt issues. My rear shaft is just getting a bit of wobble from salt issues.

Trip points 32°F IAT with grid heaters on. 6 CYL 15°F IAT with grid heaters on. 3 CYL

Hook up the switch turn to 6 CYL mode and wait about 2 minutes. Either RPM will start to step up or nothing will happen.

Most rebuilder feel solid u joints are stronger and are not greaseable.

Might be a Key Fob truck and the central timer is missing and the PCM is calling for no start from security. Central timer handles the key fob messages and PCM will prevent starting.

Yes. Needs to see like the ABS module for road speed, ECM for tach signal, etc. Then whole idea was to use two wires and all modules communicate over the CCD network to get the information from other modules to continue operational needs.

Most factory shafts don't have grease fittings. You will need to rebuild with greaseable joints and replace the center bearing.

No. But I use Eaton Fuller transmission fluid which is SAE 50 weight which is much thicker that factory fluids and protects way better than the thin factory fluid. When your increasing power to you need thicker trans fluid. No you don't need to over fill. The gears can throw the oil to the bearings just fine.

90% of truck were not enabled at the factory. Most sold in Canada and Alaska where 50/50 chance of being enabled.

Yes they do.

No. Quadzilla is not required. No. The switch is my design. I developed it to allow you to control the Cummins ECM high idle software. So if you looking to warm up your Cummins quickly then this switch is for you. There are other tricks like using the 6 cyl mode for keeping the alternator up while jump starting. Using 6 cyl mode for cool a hot truck off before jumping in the summer. Don't get wrapped up solely on just warming up but there are several other things a high idle kit can do. Yes, this switch can be used with a Quadzilla Adrenaline too.

@dieselautopower where is your Quadzilla crew?

Tester should work but you are going to need the collar fitting for coupling you injector to the test stand.

Sure. Just do me a favor? Please post up what you got and how you did the pop test. The article database would love to have a new one for pop testing.

Mechanical injectors require pressure to open the pintle to fire. As the injector wears the pop pressure falls and timing advances. This is the down fall to 24V injector systems. To keep timing correct you need to at least have them tested to see if they qualify. Yes I know 24V injectors could be completely wore out and still run and drive. Again the only way to verify is to remove all 6 and pop test. But keep in mind efficiency will degrade and possible to blow a head gasket from the advancement of the worn injectors because your mechanical advanced timing with boost and bye bye head gasket. Because as pop pressure falks its opening early. So for longevity I highly suggest pop testing injectors. I've seen 40k injectors sink to 280 bar because of shim failure. 293 bar = 4,250 PSI lower limit 327 bar = 4,750 PSI upper limit 310 bar = 4,500 PSI set pop pressure.

Try calling a local body shop that does body work they should have a book of measurements for reseting frames and body mount locations so parts will fit when replaced.

No benefits other than shorter life span and early failures. Too thin when heated to 200°F that fluid will be too thin and the hardfacing of the gears will be lost and gears will start breaking. I changed to 50 SAE trans fluid used in Eaton Fuller 10 speeds and stopping the hard face failures of the gears. If you want I dig up my broken parts to show what happens to using too thin of lube in a transmission. (NV4500).

Don't use factory fluids! I've upgraded to SAE 50 Eaton Fuller transmission fluid and doing awesome at 500 HP. Factory fluid is too thin and bearing and syncro damage occurs because the HP went up but the fluid is too thin. Factory - 75w-80 is actually 10w-30 engine oil. Then Eaton Fuller is 50 SAE is actually 90 weight gear lube. No issues with shifting even as low as -40°F.

As long as it meets the specification there is no reason for expensive oils. I've stopped chasing high dollar oils a long time ago when a member @dorkweed went 84,000 miles on a single oil change using Walmart SuperTech engine oil and was doing Blackstone test every 7k miles and continued to keep passing the test with flying colors. I use 80w-90 petroleum in the axles (open diff), 50 SAE trans fluid (syn GL-4), Dextron ATF in the transfer case. I save money this way and 481 k miles later no issues now that fixed all the damage stock 75w-80 did to my transmission. Transfer case doesn't require ATF+4 syn oil so Dextron works just as well. Yeah call me crazy but closing in on 500k miles...

That's what I know after working with DAP on my current injectors. Which I'll admit I'm pushing past 100k limit because I was set higher than 310 bar. I've got a trophy injector in my tool box I was the only person that could hear the fact there was one injector popping wrong. This was on a Case backhoe. The injector was missing a hole. Yes I'm very sensitive to picking up on bad injectors by ear.

Specs according to Dodge FSM Minimum pop pressure 293 bar (4,250 PSI) Maximum pop pressure 327 bar (4,750 PSI) Set pop pressure - 310 bar (4,500 PSI) Then the engine load has hit zero because the pop pressure is too low and the ECM no longer can control the set idle speed being the injectors are popping open too early and too long and idle control is lost. If all 6 injectors were pulled you find when tested like mine at 150k miles DAP tested mine and they were at 850 RPM and zero engine load which brought mine down got 240 to 260 bar. Which is unusable timing is totally off and too advanced in timing. Hence why when I had these 7x0.010 injectors built I opted for 320 bar for longevity and better spray. So far I'm still idling at 800 RPM at about 6-7% engine load so the injectors are still within timing and not popping open too early. Like I'm learning with Quadzilla tuning 290 bar injectors are a PITA being they are right at the breaking point of failure and over-advanced by about 4 to 5 degrees and require a tune that is retarded. My tune has to have more advancement being I'm set above 310 bar so I've got to add more advancement being I'm about 2 to 3 degrees retarded. All are based on the 310 bar set point of where the timing will be.