Mopar1973Man

That's the problem once you cut the structure it will never have the protection again. Even if welded. One of the few reasons I suggested cab replacement over repairing. That roof area is built with like a roll cage help protect you in a rollover. Once relief cut the metal to repair and weld again it will always be weak at that point. Yeah I've done body work for a few years in Pollock ID.

Already filled out replacement on Amazon the new unit will be here Monday. I'm heading to McCall to drop off the damaged unit with UPS already got it boxed and labeled for return. No cost on shipping. All covered by Amazon.

Hey Gang, I finally got the Starlink Internet fired up. Oh my Gawd this is so much better and it will be 5 dollars less for my Internet a month. Comparing Ziply Fiber which I'm provision for 18Mbit down and 1Mbit Up. Now with Starlink, I'm at 150Mbit Down and 20 Mbit Up. way way faster than Ziply Fiber. The only small snag is that Starlink does not have any Ethernet Port for cable connection only WiFi. So I did a search and found an adapter that allows me to patch between the satellite lead and the router and produce an ethernet port. Now I also ordered a Managed Workgroup Switch that is 24 Port PoE+ (Power on Ethernet) so I can plug in cameras, sign boards etc. All are managed by the switch. I can control the flow of the Internet throughout the property now. Just to compare to my old Ziply Fiber here is a speed test.  Basically Ziply Fiber wants $125 a month and Starlink wants $120 a month. Good signal and 5 dollars cheaper. Well this sucks. Plugged in the workgroup switch fans came on and ran for a short time. I got a patch cord ethernet cable to hook everything up. Something arced inside and all lights and fans went out. Didn't even run a full 5 minutes and fired before even hooking up the first network cable.

Nope... Wire is not attached to the tuner. The wire must be attached to the pump only. There should only be 12V with the key on engine off. Your most likely seeing the tuner not the VP44 tap.

Sadly my trip to Boise and back home again it was snowing down and back. Got up this morning went Riggins and it snowing to Riggins and back home again. Snow forecasted today 80 percent chance. Then the rest of the week is nothing but rain. (possible snow mix). I'm done with winter. I'm just done.

Personally I would not return any fuel to near the straw your just adding hot fuel near the straw and foam to the fuel being drawn up. This will degrade the pump performance and increase fuel temps being sent to the VP44.

Correct. Quadzilka does NOT modify and software. ODBII checksums are not altered like a Smarty or other programmer. It should be undetectable by any scan tool. @Threadzy is right.

Spring what is that? As of April 3...

Turn the ignition on engine not running you should see 12V at the tap wire.

Grid heaters can be unhooked at the driver side battery positive post. Just the two smaller black wires. It will not throw a code. This will disable the grid heaters.

Personally, I think you going to be pulling the head off. If you roll the engine over using the alternator you can check the valve lash of each cylinder as it comes up on TDC for each cylinder both intake and exhaust rockers will be loose and have clearance. Still, the easiest to find would be to pull all the injectors out and then use a compression tester injector blank and put compressed air into the cylinders. Then you would hear it in the intake. Still you'll have to pull the head to have the valves serviced.

If it's too bad just swap cabs. Make sure to swap all the electrical too.

Keep the stock filter. You'll increase the filters ability to remove debris. I've got 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um filter in the stock filter.

Valve hanging up or open would cause misfire and engine shake. Compression is what makes it run so intake vale would make it miss. The only thing I can think of is a compression test which is way better than blow by test. As for the IAT it's plastic on the cage. Now it's possible to have it start and run backwards. I've seen a few report this but very rare. I've seen 2.5 ton military truck do this and melted the air filter.

Bad ground signal wire? The ECM senses and supplies +5V on the same wire. The ground gives bias. If the ground leg is bad it will go to max voltage and most likely trip high volt codes. When the 5V line is shorted to ground it will show lo volt codes. So I would ohm from IAT plug to the ECM plug. Of course both endsneed to be I plugged to do this test. Highest even only truck with a exhaust brake I see about 140°F. I would say bad IAT sensor or bad wiring.

Ok. I've stopped for lunch. So as for the transmission pan, it's all 8mm bolts holding the transmission pan on. Then I used a trash can lid over a 5-gallon bucket for my catch. Worked well. Now after draining the fluid I reached up with a T25 and took the single screw out of the main filter. Removed the filter. Now as for the valve body, there are 8mm bolts holding the valve body in place. Before you do take the time and unplug the transmission harness. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver and pry the red lock downward. Then the tab at the top will release the white bail and allow you to work both the bail down and the plug upwards. Now after all the 8mm bolts are removed you can work the valve body off the nipples in the transmission. Since I'm replacing all the valve body and electrics as a set I've got to steal all the bolts from the OE valve body electrics and transfer them to the new body attaching the new electrics to the new valve body. This is where I stopped for a lunch break.

I'm in process of fixing this truck for shift issue. Here is the toys. Updated valve body and electrics going into this truck. Valve body out. Little tricky getting the plug unhooked. The shift linkage interferes slightly. Now I need to steal all the solenoid screws from the OE valve body and bolt up the new electrics to the upgraded valve body.

Just for a helping hand, I contacted DAP on billet covers for the 24V engine with VP44 pumps and I'm sorry to say they don't carry them at all. I was going to do the helping thing and get it placed in the store rapidly for your project but no dice from my current setup provider. As for checking the current cover I just lay them on a steel table and check the flatness to see if it is warped at all. As for sealants I use grey RTV silicone being it does harden and it will seal engine oil and gear lube with no problem. Improper sealants like black, orange, or red will not hold up and the silicone will soften and then start to leak again. The other thing I do is chase the threads with a tap to ensure silicone isn't balling up in the holes preventing good clamping of the bolts.

Again... First, make sure you not supplying a secure environment (blackberry vines) and then a food source (trash or pet food outside). Because as long as you make it possible for something to hang around that animal or other will continue. My issue here is fruit trees (apples, pears, raspberries, blackberries) in the yard. It brings the bears every year to my yard in the fall. Being there are dogs here on the property (Loki and LaKota) the animals are not as bad but they are not going to hang around. In the fall I have to keep my trash can inside the garage because if the fruit isn't there the bear will drag off trash bags up the mountain to sort through later. Another example I never set traps inside my RV because any open food source will attract mice and small animals inside. I always make sure to clear out all food stuff and then fill all the gaps in the floor and wall where mice can gain access. Then if I want to trap I'll place the trap outside under the trailer and trap them before they enter.

Right now I've got most of @Honey Badger family here right now. I've got repairs to do on the RV and on Beast. Not sure about the timing of this as of yet.

So the bias voltage is created by instrument cluster I suggest that you contact Module Masters in Moscow ID. They could test it for you.

I've got the Timbos APPS in the store... https://store.mopar1973man.com/dap-commercial-grade-throttle-position-sensor-tps9804.html

First off turn on the ignition and wait several minutes for the modules to all stop talking. Next, you measure the voltage. It should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts. If you measure the voltage during communication is not going to be accurate at all.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRvs1hJJ/ You're welcome.

I've got bears every year. Just had a skunk 2 nights ago. Deer up close and personal. Mountain Lions, bobcats, cougars not often but do come around. Make sure your trash cans are inside. Trash and food scraps attract animals if they are hungry enough they will continue to hang around. Blackberry vines should be removed sadly you now provided a home and protection to any animal. Something I'm getting rid of on my property to not have they mess of issue. Animals always go for blackberries food source and protection.