Mopar1973Man

Now before too much time goes by make sure to make a filter stand so the 3 studs don't eat holes into the air filter. Flat plate of aluminum and 3 nuts below and the plate then 3 nuts on top. Set it up in a way that the top nuts are flush with the top of the stud.

Typically I would roll the truck in the shop during an oil change and lay on the creeper and roll from the front to the back looking at everything inspecting for leaks, loose bolts, damage, etc.

I could most likely pass a smog test with my DAP +150HP Injectors (7 x 0.010), Quadzilla Adrenaline, and stock HX35W turbo. The way my tune is set up and the fuel table I run there is no smoke. If I wanted to hide the tune I could easily stash it up in the dash and hide most of the wiring. Some of the main reasons I can do this with such big injectors is the fact that other tuners like Edge CTS or Edge EZ do not allow for timing adjustments. Strangely I'm now running upwards of 24 to 25 degrees BTDC at 2,000 RPM which no other tuner can do and burn so cool in EGTs that at my 65 MPH speed I'm right at 550 to 600-degree EGTs with about 2 PSI of boost. Bonus is having super high MPG's. That should make you think...

Please do... It really does help people understand the level of damage and what it took to repair your truck.

Not a problem... I've worked in a body shop for about 3 years doing body work. I've got some experience in this. I've had to help locals with damaged doors and such.

Here he is getting greasy.

You're too far in with the latch. Your only catching the first latch and not the second. Come back out half way and try again.

Remove the differential cover is the easiest... Then look at the 3rd member and look at see if the spider gears are visible. If not then it's a limited slip. I'm not sure but if you have it jacked up on the rear axle and then spin a tire if both spin in the same direction typically it's a limited slip. If one spins in the opposite direction then it's an open differential. Find the ratio mark a tire in one spot on the inside and the driveshaft in a spot. Then turn the driveshaft and count the turns of the driveshaft to one turn of the tire. If the driveshaft turns roughly 3 and 1/2 turns it's a 3.55 gear ratio. If it turns little more than 4 turns then it's a 4.10 gear ratio. Now if you upsize the tires 1 size from 265/75 R16 to 285/75 R16 that 1-inch change will make the final ratio to the ground 3.42:1 on a 3.55 gear ratio. If you do like I did and change one size down to 245/75 R16 on a 3.55 gear ratio it will make the final ratio 3.69:1. Be careful with tire size changes with 3.55 gears. This a huge problem I'm trying to teach people don't put 35-inch tires on a 3.55 geared axle being the final ratio now is 3.21:1 to the ground and will cause damage to transmissions.

All fluids should be changed by 30k. Front and rear axles, transfer case, auto trans, power steering, brake fluid, etc.

If you are smart is running the tube to the highest point you can without kinking the hose. Just keep in mind if you play in deep water you need to go higher than the deepest water you might travel. Like I learned as I crossed a deep creek the vent for my front axle managed to pull water in as the differential cooled a vacuum was created and the tube wasn't tied in a good location and pulled water into the differential housing. Abet it was a small amount but playing all day running 4WD and crossing creeks and deep mud holes yeah the front diff was milky water in the gear oil. Opppssss.

@JJSNOW make sure to tell them Mopar Man sent you.

Plugged vents are common issues... Out here they get plugged with mud and then blow out pinion seals and axle seals.

Just remember that when you get a new master cylinder if you get the proper one that OEM used it will be too short again. So you might have a low pedal next time.

Sound more like the wrong part has been sold. A lot of parts are sold for different applications for totally different makes and models.

Double-check the regulator check valve it might have the check ball jammed in the coils of the spring.

Can be done without pulling the VP44... I've done several and super easy... Again can be done without pulling the VP44... Just 4 nuts and 2 bolts and a oil line it can be removed and rebuilt. Best to have the VP44 removed here so you can reach the front bolt and install the tappet cover without damaging the gasket and get everything lined up properly and sealed.

Suction leak between the tank and the lift pump. Any joint or connection would have to be checked from the pump back to the tank. OBDLink MX, OBDLink LX, Innova Code Reader, Quadzilla Adrenaline Tuner, etc. All the above I know work and display live data... Bad VP44... Is the only thing that I know that can cause the engine to die without codes.

Pm sent

Simply no the IAT will not cause the engine to die. It's not a required sensor it can be unplugged and drive normal. To test plug in a live data tool or pull up a iQuad app and check your IAT and ECT sensor temp should match at key on engine not running. P0112 basically states the voltage of that sensor is out of normal range. Shift issues are typically AC noise from the alternator and bad ground on the ECM and VP44 hence the W-T ground wire mod. Also most likely why the VP44 failed (possibly). White smoke is either air in the fuel which retards timing being air is compressible and makes the injectors fire late. The other is if the key been crushed because of mis-installed pump shaft. I've also seen the shaft key fall out during install of the VP44. Then timing could be off. Rare but I've seen rebuilt VP44 with bad PSG that started and white smoked and weak power.

True. My Airdog has the return into the fuel tank filler neck. Injectors and VP44 returns to the sender basket. My draw straw is installed forward of the sender basket and away from both returns. Fuel temp super rare to exceed 140°F.

No. Not true. China has gone to gold back money and several other countries have too. So this means the US Govt will have to gold back monies to continue to trade with other countries. The E-cash or Bitcoin type (electronic money) money will not work because it will not be backed by gold. Other countries will not trade in fiat money that is worthless.

Sadly that member is no longer with us that built his controller for the VGT. All I can say is back track through the forum for his post and info. Sorry I can't help further with this...

This was proved in video form years ago with a stock Carter lift pumps is you dead head the pump the will cavitate being there is no return. This is due to the recirculation of fuel in the pump body. Which I wish the video was still up be yes it was creating foam in the fuel.

That's why the BRICS countries are now switch to gold backed monies. US will be forced to follow suit to continue to trade with other foreign countries. https://www.usdebtclock.org/ Look at the dollar value behind Oil, Gold and Silver...