Mopar1973Man

Correct. Quadzilka does NOT modify and software. ODBII checksums are not altered like a Smarty or other programmer. It should be undetectable by any scan tool. @Threadzy is right.

Spring what is that? As of April 3...

Turn the ignition on engine not running you should see 12V at the tap wire.

Grid heaters can be unhooked at the driver side battery positive post. Just the two smaller black wires. It will not throw a code. This will disable the grid heaters.

Personally, I think you going to be pulling the head off. If you roll the engine over using the alternator you can check the valve lash of each cylinder as it comes up on TDC for each cylinder both intake and exhaust rockers will be loose and have clearance. Still, the easiest to find would be to pull all the injectors out and then use a compression tester injector blank and put compressed air into the cylinders. Then you would hear it in the intake. Still you'll have to pull the head to have the valves serviced.

If it's too bad just swap cabs. Make sure to swap all the electrical too.

Keep the stock filter. You'll increase the filters ability to remove debris. I've got 3um filter on the AirDog and 7um filter in the stock filter.

Valve hanging up or open would cause misfire and engine shake. Compression is what makes it run so intake vale would make it miss. The only thing I can think of is a compression test which is way better than blow by test. As for the IAT it's plastic on the cage. Now it's possible to have it start and run backwards. I've seen a few report this but very rare. I've seen 2.5 ton military truck do this and melted the air filter.

Bad ground signal wire? The ECM senses and supplies +5V on the same wire. The ground gives bias. If the ground leg is bad it will go to max voltage and most likely trip high volt codes. When the 5V line is shorted to ground it will show lo volt codes. So I would ohm from IAT plug to the ECM plug. Of course both endsneed to be I plugged to do this test. Highest even only truck with a exhaust brake I see about 140°F. I would say bad IAT sensor or bad wiring.

Ok. I've stopped for lunch. So as for the transmission pan, it's all 8mm bolts holding the transmission pan on. Then I used a trash can lid over a 5-gallon bucket for my catch. Worked well. Now after draining the fluid I reached up with a T25 and took the single screw out of the main filter. Removed the filter. Now as for the valve body, there are 8mm bolts holding the valve body in place. Before you do take the time and unplug the transmission harness. Use a small flat-blade screwdriver and pry the red lock downward. Then the tab at the top will release the white bail and allow you to work both the bail down and the plug upwards. Now after all the 8mm bolts are removed you can work the valve body off the nipples in the transmission. Since I'm replacing all the valve body and electrics as a set I've got to steal all the bolts from the OE valve body electrics and transfer them to the new body attaching the new electrics to the new valve body. This is where I stopped for a lunch break.

I'm in process of fixing this truck for shift issue. Here is the toys. Updated valve body and electrics going into this truck. Valve body out. Little tricky getting the plug unhooked. The shift linkage interferes slightly. Now I need to steal all the solenoid screws from the OE valve body and bolt up the new electrics to the upgraded valve body.

Just for a helping hand, I contacted DAP on billet covers for the 24V engine with VP44 pumps and I'm sorry to say they don't carry them at all. I was going to do the helping thing and get it placed in the store rapidly for your project but no dice from my current setup provider. As for checking the current cover I just lay them on a steel table and check the flatness to see if it is warped at all. As for sealants I use grey RTV silicone being it does harden and it will seal engine oil and gear lube with no problem. Improper sealants like black, orange, or red will not hold up and the silicone will soften and then start to leak again. The other thing I do is chase the threads with a tap to ensure silicone isn't balling up in the holes preventing good clamping of the bolts.

Again... First, make sure you not supplying a secure environment (blackberry vines) and then a food source (trash or pet food outside). Because as long as you make it possible for something to hang around that animal or other will continue. My issue here is fruit trees (apples, pears, raspberries, blackberries) in the yard. It brings the bears every year to my yard in the fall. Being there are dogs here on the property (Loki and LaKota) the animals are not as bad but they are not going to hang around. In the fall I have to keep my trash can inside the garage because if the fruit isn't there the bear will drag off trash bags up the mountain to sort through later. Another example I never set traps inside my RV because any open food source will attract mice and small animals inside. I always make sure to clear out all food stuff and then fill all the gaps in the floor and wall where mice can gain access. Then if I want to trap I'll place the trap outside under the trailer and trap them before they enter.

Right now I've got most of @Honey Badger family here right now. I've got repairs to do on the RV and on Beast. Not sure about the timing of this as of yet.

So the bias voltage is created by instrument cluster I suggest that you contact Module Masters in Moscow ID. They could test it for you.

I've got the Timbos APPS in the store... https://store.mopar1973man.com/dap-commercial-grade-throttle-position-sensor-tps9804.html

First off turn on the ignition and wait several minutes for the modules to all stop talking. Next, you measure the voltage. It should be 2.49 and 2.51 volts. If you measure the voltage during communication is not going to be accurate at all.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRvs1hJJ/ You're welcome.

I've got bears every year. Just had a skunk 2 nights ago. Deer up close and personal. Mountain Lions, bobcats, cougars not often but do come around. Make sure your trash cans are inside. Trash and food scraps attract animals if they are hungry enough they will continue to hang around. Blackberry vines should be removed sadly you now provided a home and protection to any animal. Something I'm getting rid of on my property to not have they mess of issue. Animals always go for blackberries food source and protection.

For example Blue Chip is not a certified rebuilder. PSG is used Moving parts are replaced Not ran on a test stand and calibrated

I've had my encounter last June when I went over to Seattle for Jake's graduation I had a Ford spit a front tire and played Dodge the tire on I90 heading to Seattle. I know they look cool but not cool Dodging tires because of cheap spacers and improper geometry wiping out the front ends.

Could of got a steal on a gasket set. https://store.mopar1973man.com/mahle-ms12435-intake-manifold-gasket-set.html You guys need to check the store more. Even got MAP sensor in stock. Boost leak will not affect smoke. Injectors would be more of a cause. Possibly a crushed key or the key fell out during install of the VP44.

I'm thinking of using BBs in my tires. Cheap have weight and will self balance the tires.

You still need to look into the communication error problem.

Here is why I don't like wide oversized tires on any vehicle. Take notice this Chevy truck loses the entire brake rotor as well. People don't realize the stresses that oversized tires do to steering and suspension as well as wheel bearings. This is more common than you think... Consider the legal side after this accident just because someone wants their truck look cool...