Mopar1973Man

Common problem. People that use the tilt wheel will break the wiring where it tilts in the column. You'll have to pull all the wiring out one by one and repair the wiring in the column. More you tilt the column more it breaks the wiring.

You should have my number give me a shout and we can finalize this even more.

Yup, I'm out here. Yeah, gather up all the stuff for the W-T Mod. I've done them typically in about 2 hours.

Yeah but at least I know who to call to confirm the truth. All I have to do is look around the member pool for a name and state that I want more information on. That simple.

Funny my truck only tends to chirp on the green belt from NAPA but now with the economy belt there is no shutdown chirp any longer.

I've tried a few different NAPA belts and found the standard belt is way better than the green belt that started squeaking early in life. As most already know I don't buy into the brand name of anything. There are always cheaper alternatives that truck owners can use without paying big money for a brand name or the whole heavy-duty or green belt. The biggest thing that you experience is the V's of the belt can get glazed or worn out wider so only the pulley tips are the only thing that is gripping the belt.

Sure I could @Sycostang67. Make sure you get the ring terminals and maybe a roll of electrical tape. I'll do the W-T mod for you and that one bolt which is listed in the article. I'm sure you know where I'm staying at already?

Pulling the 2 inch leveling kit today get it done to stock rake once again another truck with 35 inch tires on 3.55 gear which the owner opted for 285s on the 17 wheels. Make this truck run right. I do this more than you think. Removing lift kits.

Found out its fake. I was trying to get hold of both of you to verify. There is 5 videos all labeled Southern California where highways are destroyed and massive damage of a 11 to 12 earthquake. Yeah found out they were fake or not Vally videos.

Yeah typically but it's possible for the fork to move enough to turn out the light but still be in 4WD locked mode. My 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 was prone to that. Cable driven is a better solution than vacuum.

I got 3.30 inches on the day it rolled in. It rained most of the way down to the RV in Parma.

This is due to fluid thrashing from the torque converter. The clutch locks the the torque convertor solid which stops the fluid thrashing which makes lots of heat. Another example I've seen fire truck pump tests. Now pumping 1250 gallons a minute under a load of a measuring device at like 300 psi will heat 40 degree water to over 140 degrees in just a mere hour. The test tank is 2000 gallons IIRC.

Just keep in mind pop pressure affects timing as well. If popped at 310 bar you should be right on. For every 10 bar plus or minus is roughly 2 degrees I've figured in tuning. Just a tidbit to pass along to help you out.

Are you sure the front axle isn't locked in? Sure sounds like typical 4WD crow hop. Weird?

Anyone in the Boise area wants to meet up with me? I'm staying in Parma at a friend's place with my RV. Even got Thor all loaded up with tools and willing to meet up with other forum members. I'm down in the southwest Idaho doing Cummins work. I've got a return of a client with a 98 12V Cummins. Yeah there is a total of 4.8A draw on this truck and it's in several circuits. Instrument cluster, PCM, trailer brake controller, hazards, and integrated module (similar to the central timer). Already got the 35 inch tires off for 285s. Replaced the wasted front rotors and brake pads. I've got the A/C working and vacuum lone issues fixed.

Personally I like battery isolators that use 2 heavy duty diodes and wired from the alternator to the isolator the has the main battery terminal and a house battery terminals. This way your capable of getting the most from the vehicle alternator. Diode tend to last longer because there is no contacts to burn and diodes act like one way flow valves for electricity. Where a solenoid is a switch which h now could stick closed and drain both batteries.

Anything plugged in to the trailer connector is powered directly from the engine batteries.

Hmmm. I can't say I've seen a dash cap for the 3rd Gen trucks. Personally I would check out LMC Truck for a cap but still personally I would do a full replacement.

Or possibly the torque converter clutch is wasted and slipping. Just the possibility.

No isolator in the truck. You would have to buy one and install it.

Like I'm working on a 1998 Dodge Ram 2500 12V with a electrical draw and already pulled the center seat to access the module to see about fixing the electrical draw of 4.5 to nearly 5 amps. In this case the seat module is working and not part of the problem. As for the ABS and BRAKE lights that is because typically there is a speed sensor error or failure.

Sadly if the crank sensor been changed most likely the key is sheared or there is problems with the VP44 in its timing. Also I've seen people lose the tone ring on the crankshaft too.

This truck has about 4.7A to almost full 5A draw. Now I can tell you what fuses stop the draw but not sure what to do next. Tag @Auto Computer Specialist hopefully he see this. In the PDC you need to pull the 20A PCM fuse #3. Then the 10A combination flasher fuse B. Then in the cab the IOD fuse 12, integrated module fuse 13, and cluster fuse 14 in the dash. This drops the total draw to 0.2 Amps total. I've got a power distribution map but in PDF format. michael nelson wiring diagram power distribution.pdf

This truck has about 4.7A to almost full 5A draw. Now I can tell you what fuses stop the draw but not sure what to do next. Tag @Auto Computer Specialist hopefully he see this. In the PDC you need to pull the 20A PCM fuse #3. Then the 10A combination flasher fuse B. Then in the cab the IOD fuse 12, integrated module fuse 13, and cluster fuse 14 in the dash. This drops the total draw to 0.2 Amps total. I've got a power distribution map but in PDF format. michael nelson wiring diagram power distribution.pdf

Your lucky... Even my ATV has been down for the summer with a bad rear brake cable for the left-hand lever. I've not done any riding this year at all.