Mopar1973Man

Me... I opted for the PIAA Driving light LEDs (15w) and they are actually brighter than my actual Morimoto D2S HID headlights. I will warn that cold country where it snows they will snow over in a bad storm and block the light.

Would be a good idea to have the tool for keeping the ABS happy and being able to program the wheel size and gear ratio. Especially for someone that changes tires and sizes between street and track.

Yeah this is what I deal with behind the scenes... Actual screenshot of the internal code of the website. Now you all understand I'm responsible for all the software myself. Anything I need I have to build myself to make the website work and display way we need it to display. This is why I dumped the custom theme skin because the code work was just eating way too much time to keep the site up to date. Make everything worse my server is NOT here at my house in Idaho. Actually its in Michigan. I have to work all this remotely from my PC to Michigan and do it on the same language as the server (CentOS 7 Linux) vs my PC here at home (Ubuntu 22.04 Linux). Then having to test everything for mobile. tablet and for desktop displays every time I made a code change. Here is that very same code as posted above but actually looking at the spot where its at on the website.

Be aware if you replace both front sensors and still have the ABS / BRAKE lights yet then your going to replace both front wheel bearings. Sadly they will come with fresh sensors too. Again the tone wheel inside the bearing can break internally and cause issues. Another I've seen is old grease with graphite (metal dust) in the tone wheel will alter the reading make sure there is no grease in the tone wheel teeth it will affect the reading of speed.

Does the speedometer show correctly from dead stop to highway speed? if it does then its one of the front axle sensor. It very possible for a tone ring to break off in the unit bearings which I had a passenger side bearing fail that way. Once replace it should reset in just a few hundred feet of driving if not then then there is other issues.

Not exactly. I been doing custom themes for years every time there is a software update I would have to go all back through and fix all my custom coding. Being that like 80 to 85% of the traffiic mobile phones. This is a paid for theme that a 3rd party is providing and keeping all the code up to date for me. It was getting to time intense to manage the theme skin every time a update would wipe out all my code work every time. The Invision factory theme is available but I'm not keeping it up to date at all. Now to manage two themes and keep code up to date was getting crazy so only paying members can use the the factory theme. Again no code is being update on that theme. I'm only keeping the Animate theme up to date. This factory theme is not offered to guest or non-paying. Just like this bit of code... Part of the ad banners but this doesn't layout correctly so I've got to modify the code... {{if $rowCount == 1 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} To... {{if $rowCount == 5 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 10 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 15 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 20 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} So I had to go back every time I was updating software and hunt down each and every modification and copy and paste in my code work. Then sometimes it would train wreck the site because now my custom code no longer works and I must contact the software provider (Invision Power Board) and get help on reworking the code to function correctly. Then sometimes they provide changes to give options and find out things are duplicated because now there is a option switch for the custom code I've been doing for years. Example signatures in the mobile view (not available back last year) so custom code need to be inserted. There is much more... So the custom theme saves me ton of time having to keep everything up to date and recreating every time I get software updates. https://www.ipsfocus.com/themes/animate/

As long as the ECM plug is plugged directly into the MAP sensor that is valid test.

Funny... In all the years of my Quadzilla being on my truck I've NEVER unhooked for jump starting any vehicles. Never had any failures of the Quadzilla. Now as for the boost issue is there any error codes like P0237 or P0238? If yes then unhook the Quadzilla and clear the codes. Now does the code return? If it does return then the MAP sensor or wiring is the cause. If not the the boost fooler of the Quadzilla failed. Just for info... Currently my tune for +150 HP injectors and stock HX35W turbo I'm now running 0 to 1 PSI of boost at 55 MPH. At 65 MPH it barely floats 2 PSI to 3 PSI.

On manual trucks the AC noise affects the cruise control like on my truck say I could set for 65 MPH and holding good for several miles then all of sudden it would surge up another +10 MPH from AC noise then decelerate below the set point -10 MPH and continue the cycle till the field lead was unhooked then the problem stopped.

I used a dedicated ISSPro EV2 for my transmission temperature gauge. My ISSPro EV2 is installed into my NV4500 transmission. Then used the trans temp probe of the Quadzilla to monitor engine oil temperature being it gives clues on timing adjustment. Optimal engine oil temp can be as low as 155*F to 170*F. If your above this or near coolant temp then your timing is off either too advanced or too retarded.

Same way you would before you did the W-T ground wire mod. So take your DVM and red probe you touch the BATT post on the alternator and then the black probe you touch to the passenger battery.

After doing a oil pan gasket I know exactly how to remove a oil pan the easy way. You need a cherry picker and let the axle hang fully extended. It will nearly fall out. Yeah I've had crank sensors break off at the o-ring. I've drove a drywall screw in and attempted to pull it out nope... Then I continued to break off bits and piece till it came out.

Hmmm... I've never had any issues on pull the PSG cover. You need to have the exact bit for the cover bolts there are not a standard torx bit its actually a special bit. I normally get a 1/4" socket and put it on a 1/4" ratchet and just place the bit in the socket and twist like a palm ratchet and they come right loose. If im not mistaken the PSG cover bolts are a 5 spline bolt and a normal torx bolt is a 6 spline.

There is a app called "Grammarly" it helps. I'm guilty too...

Just a bit of info on this... Typically on average the IAT will show approximately +40*F over outside air temperature. This is not a good measurement of ambient air temperature. Then the only thing the IAT does is control the grid heater for length of time it will run to heat for start up. As for after starting if the IAT falls below +80*F then the timing will shift to add about 3 to 4 degree advanced. Above 80*F then it uses the normal timing. Optimal IAT is 100*F to 140*F. Battery temperature sensor is for the primary use of charging the battery. It measures the case temperature to prevent boiling the battery with excessive charge voltage. Most don't know that the battery temperature sensor also controls the grid heaters post heating cycle. Just tidbits to add. Good post @W-T...

The green wire varies the ground to vary the charge rate. Since the vehicles has current draws the alternator will always charge some all the time match current loads.

Be aware that if the battery voltage shows 12.00 volts it will show normal on the volt gauge. After the voltage falls to 11.99 volts it will slam the needle down to 8 Volts and throw the light and chime. Once the voltage rises back above 11.99 volts to 12.00 volts it will turn off the check gauge light and then show normal voltage. The only reason I know this is my USB charge point shows actual battery voltage with the key on. I can see actual voltage numbers on my USB port. @Tractorman is correct your best off with a Digital Volt Meter. You will be able to check each battery for its charging voltage. I've found several trucks that show correct voltage on the gauge but like the passenger battery is low like 12.3 volts and the driver side battery is 14.8 volts. This shows the battery terminals and/or cables are bad.

No change between the HX35W (54/60/12) vs the HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12). Spool is better on the HX35W and with proper tuning I'm running near zero boost at highway speeds. Watch my Tiktok...

Minnie (1999 Dodge Grand Caravan) I did a fresh set of headlight cases and installed a set of $70 Amazon LEDs. I went with mid-line bulbs. After replacing the headlight case where the lens were fogged over. Now the LEDs are very close to my HIDs but do have a hot spot vs HIDs are very clean light. Total was about $180. Took less than 30 minutes to change it all out.

Thank you @IBMobile that video is spot on... This is why I weighed my 31 foot Jayco before rolling to Cally to go camping with you boys and girls. With my RV fully load and myself in the truck my truck weight is right at 8,800 pounds. Then my RV comes in at 8,020 pounds. This is a total of 16,820 pounds total. I'm registered for 26,000 pound on my plates but I still check to make sure the truck or trailer doesn't exceed its ratings too. 2500 Ram - 8,800 pounds GVWR scaled 8,800 pound 100% loaded no more! Jayco Eagle - 8,500 pounds GVWR scaled at 8.020 pounds 94% loaded tight but got wiggle room just a little.

No. I'm going to pack up again and make my second trip to the moon again.

There are some of us that let there Cummins sweat horsepower. After 458k miles they tend to get well rather greasy grimey and dirty from being driven to numerous other states. 476k miles I will be to the moon and back.

@Tractorman could you clear out your PM box. I was going to PM you but its full.

Just to explain a bit... The first 02 sensor is going to create a mild lean rich sine-wave of signal. This is normal it will go rich and then lean and back to rich and continues. Now the downstream O2 sensor is expecting a typical lean signal showing the catalysis is function by burning the excess hydrocarbons that are coming out of the engine. When the sine-wave is seen in the second O2 sensor then the P0420 code is typically thrown for a failing catalysis since its showing that same sine-wave downstream and the cat is functioning. @IBMobile posted is true I've seen a video of this showing the code issue and then using two spark plug anti-foolers it will help correct this issue.

Sorry for the down time on the tunes we had some internal issues here. I will be working at resolving this Monday morning.