Mopar1973Man

Yes installs right in the boost hose. Mine is different design. @IBMobile I know has one maybe he can post a picture. I know we got ours off eBay.

Just rambling of a mad man. Cummins fever is real. No Vax will save you. All we have is our support groups to try and tame the symptoms and keep us from losing control of our wallets.

Timing must retard to push more flame out the exhaust to spin the turbo. More advancement will cause it to burn most of the fuel in the cylinder. Little boost will be made. My current tune I run right at 25* BTDC at 2,000 RPMs which nets me about 2 to 3 PSI of boost at 66 MPH. Now get the timing to drop from crossing my engine load limit of 25% then the timing drops to 17* BTDC and then the boost builds rapidly. Factory injectors should be able to push a good 30 to 35 PSI of boost easy. But if they have more than 100k miles then the injectors are wore out and just not going to perform very well being the pop pressure is low and the spray isn't atomized very well so power is lost. Most of the cheap boost elbows don't really work all that good if it allows too much boost to still leak through to the wastegate. Some of us got lucky and got a China made boost fooler for about 8 dollars. Mine is a screw together body with a spring and check ball that has to work the pressure up high enough to push the check ball open. Now here is a real boost controller for your wastegate... https://www.genracer.com/grimmspeed-universal-manual-boost-controller-for-mechanical-wastegates/?action=select&sku=GS070002

Injection pump is have timing issues most likely the injection pump is galling up the timing piston and starting ot stick randomly. So I'll bet that the PSG has had some thermal events too hence why the coolant getting warm helps.

Gotta ask do you have the new push lock style fitting or the old school JIC hydraulic screw fittings? If you have push lock style that just snaps it might be pulling air in. So a little temporary trick is to pull the suction line fitting as put a coating of thick bearing grease on the smooth nipple and re-install the fitting if this stops the air lock issue then I would suggest swapping to the old school JIC fittings and that would stop the air leak issue on the suction line. Why is this a problem simply the push lock style fittings will roll back the o-rings in the suction lines and loose there seal and leak air. This is best... Can be got from Vulcan Performance. Just Eric I sent you to him. This is not good... These have the air leak issue.

I'm still thinking its a electronic being the set temperature range that things change. It's like the software on the ECM has been altered. No way to tell if there is a Smarty tune in or some sort of custom tune from like a EFI or other tuner. Just easier to reflash and try again. Even if you had another ECM it should change back to that software.

Like the set I got for Minnie I had to install the adapter into the headlight case first making sure it was index properly. Then the bulbs were indexed for for the adapters and only would sit in one position no way to partial turn them or misaligned them.

Radiators ain't exactly rocket science. The only thing about OE radiators is you'll find that most are plastic header tanks and rubber gaskets. Will it leak? Eventually, it will. As for a fully full aluminum radiators will leak just the same in time. Your not going to get more cooling from a high price radiator vs chain store radiator. The physical area of the radiator is rather fixed you might get a extra row of core tubes at the most. Either way the factory radiator works very well for years most don't have heat issues unless really bad final ratio with hot injectors. That's not a radiator problem it more about a poorly set up truck. Another tidbit if you read up on thermal efficiency you'll find that running a hotter thermostat will reduce the amount of energy wasted into to the cooling jacket. Why? Because heat is attracted to cold and the greater the offset of temperature between the cylinder and the coolant more energy will be wasted into to the cooling jacket. This is why I typically just use the 190*F thermostat vs a 180*F thermostat which I did study on my long hauls that the 190*F gave better MPG's. Crazier yet grab a 200*F thermostat from a 4th Gen and run that. It will improve that just a little bit more. Yeah I'm rambling again...

When your ready just give me a shout and we will sit down and have a phone call chat and I'll get a feel for what you want to build. I'm enjoying my current tune being its a mild daily driver. I typically run level 2 on slick roads but dry pavement I'll run level 3. If someone wants to play I toss the wire tap to it. Now I've got a chance. I want to get some time after I'm done playing with my daily tune then build a strong performance tune that just absolutely sends that truck down the pavement. Then I need a good towing tune that is still eco-friendly but nice low EGT's.

Very good video thank you for some truth.

Stock lift pumps do not have a return... Only fuel system with a return is a AirDog 100/150/165 or a FASS 100/150/165 fuel system. Typically have two filters. Now like AirDog Raptor series does not have a return to the fuel tank. FASS DDRP does not have a retrun to the tank. There are few other pumps are just in and out without returns. Then no pump system out uses the stock return line because its too small for the volume. It only 6mm ID steel pipe or down on the frame would be a bit larger but nothing should be returning fuel in that line but the injector return and VP44 return that should be it. There should be zero pressure in the return line because that would cause pressure problems being the pressure will blow pass the overflow valve and back flood the VP44 screwing with the timing and other issues. Also restricting the cooling flow being its fighting to return to the tank as well. I would high suggest you remove that return from the pump and plumb it to the filler neck of the tank.

One truck totally jack-knifed... The propane port is on the ground side of the tank.

Locally just about 5 to 6 miles south of me a propane truck rolled over with about 11,000 gallons of propane. The highway has been close heading south. Now according to what I know HAZMAT crews are attempting to drill and vent the propane to be burned. Last night Idaho power had shut power down for at least 4 hours. When the power came back it showed the highway open. Now this morning highway is closed again. I've got to get info today to find out what happened. I was planning on Friday having a customer come get his truck. But the highway was blocked by the accident. Bad part neither my cell phone (Active 911 App) or my fire radio (Digital project 25) toned out. I never even knew that the accident happened. Why I'm outside the loop. Even if I had a wrench job I couldn't get parts being both of the NAPA stores I deal with are south of the accident. No US mail being it comes from the south. Limited supplies being Riggins is a small town. Few of my friends had to make the long trip of 7 hours to drive all the way to Ontario OR to catch I84 and head north towards Lewiston to come back down US95 again through Riggins. Even my neighbors 80+ years old wound up driving 7 hours to get back home. Sadly I had plans for this weekend to head to a friend's place and go ATV riding in the southern Idaho. Make things worse my water heater here at the house started leaking. Thanks to Mark my tenant in my guest house managed to get me a water heater from Fiddle Creek hardware. So this morning we got to finish the install and convert it over to 110 VAC with 1100 watt elements from my old heater. Remember I only have 4kw inverter I can run 4500 watt elements. Hence the conversion. Highway is closed between milepost 180 to 161. I'm at 181 milepost and the tanker is at milepost 176.

@Honey Badger can only drive automatics. Both of my trucks are manuals. The only one she has driven is Minnie.

Easiest either send the ECM out to be checked by Auto Computer Specialist or heading to a dealer having it flash to true stock.

Figures... @IBMobile would post his photos he got of me. We all had a good time. Yeah even I've got a wild side.

Yeah I'm sure you will post the pictures of me wearing the blue and black.

Basically in the nutshell you have +5V signal from the ECM and the thermistor will vary the resistance the higher the voltage the higher in temperature. Lower resistance would give more ground lowering the voltage making the temperature read lower.

Thank you for the kind comments... We treat all members like family. I make it a point to call some of the common members and chat with them at least monthly if I can. Heck I've even gone camping with some of the members too. Done work on some of the members in person. So yeah you are now part of our family and will do what we can to help you out with your truck. Heck like @JAG1 and @IBMobile I just went camping with them in April last year. Should be in the forum I'll dig it up later.

I think 56k ohm is 123*F if I recall correctly. So going higher in resistance from there should get you closer to that temp.

I've been hunting for that video. It was leaked from congress and they were talking about transition from Biden to Trump for a 2nd term shortly. Might of been deleted.

I found a leaked video of the US government stating that Trump will be transitioning Biden out and Donald Trump back in for a 2nd term. When I find the video again I'll make sure I post it for you all.

I'm running 25* BTDC at 2,000 RPMs currently with my tune and head studs. But the trick is my high timing will only occur when the boost is below 5 PSI. Typical at 55 MPH is 0 to 1 PSI boost and then 65 MPH is 2 to 3 PSI boost. High timing with high boost will for sure blow the head gasket... Make sure the timing retards when engine load rises...

Again back to the PCM and verify the software on the PCM is correct. PCM is what creates the CCD network bus. Then the gauge cluster sets the CCD Network voltage to 2.49 and 2.51 volts. Which you can measure at the OBDII port with a DVM but make sure to wait several minutes for all modules to stop talking.

Anywhere really the favorite I like is the OBDLink MX series. https://www.obdlink.com/products/obdlink-mxp/ Then you can monitor live data and also read error codes with your cell phone or mobile device.