Mopar1973Man

Myself I typically run Level 2 on the Quadzilla being with +150 HP DAP Injectors (7 x 0.010 popped at 320 bar) that more than enough power for daily driver use. Level 3 is more or less like my Sport Street mode. I don't really use the wire tap but to show off to clients. That typically will push them back in the seat and you see the "Oh chit" face come, I just smile. Now with my current tune, I'm greatly defuled on the low boost realm. Way better snow and ice performance.

https://www.amazon.com/KAIFNT-5-Point-Tamper-Proof-Security-7-Piece/dp/B07TC79LVH

It could but, I wouldn't trust it fully. If you can spool fast its possible to blow past the limit briefly before the defuel limit kicks in. Just depends on how slow your acceleration then it will lean right up against it and defuel slowly. This is my experience on Beast... All I can say is try it and see how it works out.

NAPA gasket is all I ever used. Now make sure your cover isn't warped and that there is no issues. Do NOT use silicone on the cover or gasket. I just slip the new gasket on making sure that its facing the right direction typically there is a tab showing direction. Then tighten the bolts as usual and reassmeble the VP44 into the gear case.

True Bosch certified pump is NOT a T25. Look security pin in the center and its not 6 point but 5 point.

Reverse it. Now if the ECM was booting up but PCM wasn't talking it would start but things like alternator won't work being the PCM doesnt recieve the tach signal from the ECM.

CCD typically will not prevent starting... Now the missing WAIT TO START will 100% of the time. Being that ECM never booted up and is not responding at all. The fact that CCD bus error means the PCM booted up and attempted to talk to the ECM and since the ECM is completely brain dead it will not repsond nor start being the is not software to turn on the fuel pump relay (power for the VP44) and then no information will be fed to the VP44 being the software is not booted. I would give @Auto Computer Specialist a call and have the ECM tested out and follow their suggestions on fixing.

Strange I've jumped many vehicles and never unhooked the Quadzilla. No damage. No wait to start is a ECM death sentence, then the CCD codes are most likely because the ECM is not responding because the ECM never booted up which goes back to the lack of wait to start light.

My Father-in-law got a 2017 Dodge Hemi truck and it 3/4 ton. It looks like the previous owner hit a gooseneck hitch in the corner passenger side. Let me know if anyone has a tailgate white hopefully.

Here is my old post...

Me... I opted for the PIAA Driving light LEDs (15w) and they are actually brighter than my actual Morimoto D2S HID headlights. I will warn that cold country where it snows they will snow over in a bad storm and block the light.

Would be a good idea to have the tool for keeping the ABS happy and being able to program the wheel size and gear ratio. Especially for someone that changes tires and sizes between street and track.

Yeah this is what I deal with behind the scenes... Actual screenshot of the internal code of the website. Now you all understand I'm responsible for all the software myself. Anything I need I have to build myself to make the website work and display way we need it to display. This is why I dumped the custom theme skin because the code work was just eating way too much time to keep the site up to date. Make everything worse my server is NOT here at my house in Idaho. Actually its in Michigan. I have to work all this remotely from my PC to Michigan and do it on the same language as the server (CentOS 7 Linux) vs my PC here at home (Ubuntu 22.04 Linux). Then having to test everything for mobile. tablet and for desktop displays every time I made a code change. Here is that very same code as posted above but actually looking at the spot where its at on the website.

Be aware if you replace both front sensors and still have the ABS / BRAKE lights yet then your going to replace both front wheel bearings. Sadly they will come with fresh sensors too. Again the tone wheel inside the bearing can break internally and cause issues. Another I've seen is old grease with graphite (metal dust) in the tone wheel will alter the reading make sure there is no grease in the tone wheel teeth it will affect the reading of speed.

Does the speedometer show correctly from dead stop to highway speed? if it does then its one of the front axle sensor. It very possible for a tone ring to break off in the unit bearings which I had a passenger side bearing fail that way. Once replace it should reset in just a few hundred feet of driving if not then then there is other issues.

Not exactly. I been doing custom themes for years every time there is a software update I would have to go all back through and fix all my custom coding. Being that like 80 to 85% of the traffiic mobile phones. This is a paid for theme that a 3rd party is providing and keeping all the code up to date for me. It was getting to time intense to manage the theme skin every time a update would wipe out all my code work every time. The Invision factory theme is available but I'm not keeping it up to date at all. Now to manage two themes and keep code up to date was getting crazy so only paying members can use the the factory theme. Again no code is being update on that theme. I'm only keeping the Animate theme up to date. This factory theme is not offered to guest or non-paying. Just like this bit of code... Part of the ad banners but this doesn't layout correctly so I've got to modify the code... {{if $rowCount == 1 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} To... {{if $rowCount == 5 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 10 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 15 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} {{if $rowCount == 20 AND $advertisement = \IPS\core\Advertisement::loadByLocation( 'ad_forum_listing' )}} <li class="ipsDataItem"> {$advertisement|raw} </li> {{endif}} So I had to go back every time I was updating software and hunt down each and every modification and copy and paste in my code work. Then sometimes it would train wreck the site because now my custom code no longer works and I must contact the software provider (Invision Power Board) and get help on reworking the code to function correctly. Then sometimes they provide changes to give options and find out things are duplicated because now there is a option switch for the custom code I've been doing for years. Example signatures in the mobile view (not available back last year) so custom code need to be inserted. There is much more... So the custom theme saves me ton of time having to keep everything up to date and recreating every time I get software updates. https://www.ipsfocus.com/themes/animate/

As long as the ECM plug is plugged directly into the MAP sensor that is valid test.

Funny... In all the years of my Quadzilla being on my truck I've NEVER unhooked for jump starting any vehicles. Never had any failures of the Quadzilla. Now as for the boost issue is there any error codes like P0237 or P0238? If yes then unhook the Quadzilla and clear the codes. Now does the code return? If it does return then the MAP sensor or wiring is the cause. If not the the boost fooler of the Quadzilla failed. Just for info... Currently my tune for +150 HP injectors and stock HX35W turbo I'm now running 0 to 1 PSI of boost at 55 MPH. At 65 MPH it barely floats 2 PSI to 3 PSI.

On manual trucks the AC noise affects the cruise control like on my truck say I could set for 65 MPH and holding good for several miles then all of sudden it would surge up another +10 MPH from AC noise then decelerate below the set point -10 MPH and continue the cycle till the field lead was unhooked then the problem stopped.

I used a dedicated ISSPro EV2 for my transmission temperature gauge. My ISSPro EV2 is installed into my NV4500 transmission. Then used the trans temp probe of the Quadzilla to monitor engine oil temperature being it gives clues on timing adjustment. Optimal engine oil temp can be as low as 155*F to 170*F. If your above this or near coolant temp then your timing is off either too advanced or too retarded.

Same way you would before you did the W-T ground wire mod. So take your DVM and red probe you touch the BATT post on the alternator and then the black probe you touch to the passenger battery.

After doing a oil pan gasket I know exactly how to remove a oil pan the easy way. You need a cherry picker and let the axle hang fully extended. It will nearly fall out. Yeah I've had crank sensors break off at the o-ring. I've drove a drywall screw in and attempted to pull it out nope... Then I continued to break off bits and piece till it came out.

Hmmm... I've never had any issues on pull the PSG cover. You need to have the exact bit for the cover bolts there are not a standard torx bit its actually a special bit. I normally get a 1/4" socket and put it on a 1/4" ratchet and just place the bit in the socket and twist like a palm ratchet and they come right loose. If im not mistaken the PSG cover bolts are a 5 spline bolt and a normal torx bolt is a 6 spline.

There is a app called "Grammarly" it helps. I'm guilty too...

Just a bit of info on this... Typically on average the IAT will show approximately +40*F over outside air temperature. This is not a good measurement of ambient air temperature. Then the only thing the IAT does is control the grid heater for length of time it will run to heat for start up. As for after starting if the IAT falls below +80*F then the timing will shift to add about 3 to 4 degree advanced. Above 80*F then it uses the normal timing. Optimal IAT is 100*F to 140*F. Battery temperature sensor is for the primary use of charging the battery. It measures the case temperature to prevent boiling the battery with excessive charge voltage. Most don't know that the battery temperature sensor also controls the grid heaters post heating cycle. Just tidbits to add. Good post @W-T...