
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Where is Mopar1973Man?
I made it to Colleyville TX yesterday at about 3:30pm CST. Just a bit over 1,700 miles from home. I'll be here till Friday morning and then heading out for my return trip home. I'll be driving a rental car and heading back to Idaho. As for driving a Benz RV all in all I very comfortable vehicle but just way too complex with all its extras. Yeah it nice to have but at time all you want to do is turn all that stuff off. I was very surprised that the DPF never regen the entire trip. I was checking on the cluster and when it rised to 70 to 80% I would make the effory to find a way to run WOT operation like up a short hill to gain the EGTs to clear it out and it always dropped back to about 35 to 50% load in the DPF. As for DEF fluid it only used a 1/4 tank to travel over 1,700 miles. As for economy it roughly came in at about 14 to 15 MPG. Not bad for the weight of this 25 foot RV. The only thing that I was not impressed with is power. Anytime you hit any kind of hill or grade it could not hold road speeds of even 55 MPH it would fallback to about 40 to 45 MPH. Controls... Well this can get rather confusing to a first time user. The steering wheel is full of controls. So the left spoke has your cluster display controls, cruise control, etc. On the right spoke has your entertainment screen controls and phone controls. Now just the cruise control set switch is double duty in a way. Just a light click up will set but also increase speed +1 if you full click the same switch it was a +5 gain always 60, 65, 70, etc. Now around the speedometer rim it lights up in red LED. Now if you close in on a vehicle then the speedometer LED rim will show thechange in cruise, start backing down. When you change lanes and you have clear road ahead it will accelerate and resume back to normal cruise speeds automatically.
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Where is Mopar1973Man?
Pulled 535 miles today. Made to Amarillo TX. Only 340 miles to Colleyville TX. That will make my final 4th day a walk in the park easy. My client Carolyn has been impressed with my ability to drive and handle everything. Every morning I study the map on my phone and pre-plan the trip and managed to hit my target every day. Carolyn's friend Georgia also along for the ride has made nice comments too. Both them had the luxury of napping most of the day and I drove. Been a long day I'm calling it quits. Post more tomorrow.
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Valair Clutch
Luke myself I'm running dual disc organic Valair on both Beast and Thor. Thor has the Quiet series. So far I know Beast is well past 100k Thor is about 10k miles. I'll admit both clutches are a bit sticky and like to grab sometimes, the hydros are a bit stiff compared to a stock being the pressure plate can really clamp all that down.
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Thinking of selling my Gen 2...help me!
I've been close to 23,000 to 26,000 pounds between hauling large loads of hay, backhoes, firewood, etc.
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Injection pump
Midwest and one other just don't remember.
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Where is Mopar1973Man?
Morning all. As for power to weight of this RV it's OK for flat ground but put it in the mountains it will be backing down on speed. 7% grade it might do about 40 to 45 MPH. As for MPG it's not bad at 12 to 14 MPG. Lots of comfort features, auto braking, auto wipers, auto hi beams, the list goes on. As for travel I've got to make it to a Amarillo TX today it's going to be a long day.
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Where is Mopar1973Man?
Not going to happen. For a vehicle with less the 3k we just had our first failure. The braking assist just shut off about an hour ago. Now has an error saying to read the owners manual. Don't have time just kept trucking. Made to Cortez CO. I'm done for the night.
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Where is Mopar1973Man?
Well this morning I woke up in Ogden, UT. What the heck? I was hired to drive a Mercedes-Benz Airstream RV from McCall ID to Colleyville TX. Yup you heard right. As I'm typing this I'm enjoying my morning coffee. Waiting for my client to show for breakfast. I might make it to New Mexico tonight but the depends on weather and wind being there is flash flood warnings, and good amount of wind this morning. I will say the Benz is quite a trip to drive. Way too much stuff on the steering wheel, two video screens I can control. Being it diesel it's it got DPF and DEF. Client is here. Catch ya.
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Thinking of selling my Gen 2...help me!
I loved my old 1972 Dodge Power wagon with a 360 CID with a 4 speed.
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Scanner For 2nd Gen.
My favorite is OBDLink MX it covers all vehicles. It only provides the standard OBDII info. Some of the data can be matched out to find like HP or TQ. As for internal like VP44 timing, and such you can get off your Quadzilla. Now my layout is designed around mates. Intake and fuel temp are typically matching as a mate. Coolant and engine oil (trans temp) are close mates being my oil typically 30 degrees cooler. Then engine load and pyro are working hand in hand. Timing and ECO are mate's being timing impact ECO fairly directly.
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Thinking of selling my Gen 2...help me!
Yeah but there is upgraded replacement parts for 2nd Gens. Like upgraded dash seem to have a long life span versus the OE dash. Yeah it sure it fails and breaks but you can upgrade parts.
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Thinking of selling my Gen 2...help me!
Let's say I'd rather sell my 3rd Gen than even selling my 2nd Gen. Don't get me wrong I like some off the features as for driving but working on 3rd Gens up just get real expensive quick. Trust me for all the work I've done on Common Rails. Personally it's just easier on a 2nd Gen.
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47/48re 2nd gear servo question.
Just thinking I might have that book in the download section.
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Truck has random misfire when hot
Ok. Reaching harder. Might look at the tips of the injector lines make sure the tip don't have scratches or gouges that might weep. I've had a small scratch in one of tips and would weep.
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Hard long duration Start 2001 Dodge Cummins
Make sure the small wires are hook to both solenoids. Try reseting codes if it returns then the solenoid is damaged needs replaced. Check your fuel pump relay in the PDC under the hood if that doesn't solve the issue you will have to pull the ECM plug and the VP44 and ohm from end to end to make sure there is no wiring issues. This might be part of the wiring issues from the above code. Most likely need to find a Timbo's APPS and replace the APPS sensor.
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Pennzoil with TC-3
Other than the spark plug will most likely grow with ash build up like our injectors would. That will never go away with trying to burn engine oil. This is why 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS.
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Truck has random misfire when hot
The only thing that could cause a misfire either low compression or fuel injector. Could you crack injector lines and see if you can stop the misfire? This might isolate it down to a single cylinder then you know what to look for and where. Did you do new crossover tubes? Might be a bad tip or seat that is bleeding into the return rail causing the misfire.
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Pilothouse/RAM3500 build
Brakes go for aluminum. Cast Iron will rust and have issues as the brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Aluminum will not react to moisture whereas cast iron will.
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Truck Not Running Right
MAP sensor use a live data tool to verify the function of the MAP sensor. Quadzilla would be better to display true boost numbers. But still in all just to show you that MAP sensor you can on a Edge Comp unplug the MAP sensor the Edge Comp will sit at max boost and still run just fine just smokes like a freight train. If there is no P0236 (too high too long), P0237 too low volts, P0238 too high it should be working typically.
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47/48re 2nd gear servo question.
- Pennzoil with TC-3
This is one reason why I don't worry about store brand oils typically. Like for example NAPA oils come from a name brand source if I'm not mistaken Valvoline. All lubricants are required to meet the quality standards of the API seal on the bottles. Same with all lubricants or fluids there is a standard it must meet before it can be sold. Kind of like a old member here @dorkweed he ran 84k miles on a single oil change and was using a bypass filter. Only thing he would do is change filters, capture a sample and sent it off to blackstone for test and top off and run another 7k miles. No damage or issue with running 84,000 miles on Walmart Super Tech 15w-40 engine oil.- Not a good experience
I had a direct number to Blue Top and noticed the same then. The phone number was dropped from the website and email only. The account action is so all the book records are securely stored for you. Kind of like here it makes handling purchase issues easier because there is account to store that information. Yes it seem like Blue Top dropped all phone contact from there website. The only thing you can do is just email them and go from there.- Delayed start - longer turnover.
So the common problem is the suction side of the system. All the lines between the pump and the fuel tank can leak while running sucking air in and also while parked and draw air in and drain the fuel lines down. Crossover tubes can leak air in while parked and so can the return line plumbing like the banjo seals at the rear of the head and the tee fitting at the rear of the engine. Then my last one was what I had was bad o-rings on the injectors and it would weep air in and bleed the prime off. As for the suction side you can make sure it has running prime like after a drive and then using the blower side of a shop vacuum pressurize the fuel tank and then have a second person look for moist spots at joints in the suction side. Good. The ECM and PCM are most likely fine then. As for the crank sensor. In the basic sense the senor is a small barrel magnet wrapped with thin copper wire. How it functions as a metal tooth comes near the sensor it creates a frequency pulse. Ohm it out will just verify the winding is still good but cant measure the magnet flux and its strength. As metal passes by and the pulse is made the ECM counts the pulse (or frequency) and with a bit of math it can figure out engine RPM. This is why it would be optimal to have a oscilloscope for testing this. Now as for why the sensor fails. I've got to ask one dumb question. Q: How do you destroy a magnet? Well there is physically striking a magnet with a hammer which randomizes the flux in the magnet. The other way is heating and cooling. Most of the problems with the early 24V crank sensors I believe is from the heat cycles on the magnet and the pulses get to weak over time and then ECM calls out the error. This why the cam sensor was ditched and the crank sensor was moved to the gear case where its cooler.- We've all done the W-T mod.. but has anyone dealt with interference from outside the truck?
I can understand what @W-T is saying about RF energies. Makes a lot of sense. I still would say remove the tuner first though and verify that the RF energy isn't attacking something like the Edge Comp which could be creating the issue hence run a week with it completely removed. See if the week returns to normal. Being the Edge Comp is riding on the CANBus data and handles it directly. Since the route of the wiring from the CANBus connector on the block to the inside cab makes the bus exposed to RF radiation being none of that is shielded to grounded to the block to keep the signal clean. So by adding a tuner your exposing the Bus to more RF energies in a RF energy rich area like W-T example. The only shielded CANBus data is between the ECM to VP44 which is actually covered in shield jacket. As you can see Orange/Brown wire noted in the wiring which has no pin at the injection pump being its deadheaded at the end of the VP44 plug.- Delayed start - longer turnover.
I've got to ask does the wait to start light come on instantly? Being if the ECM isn't booted up completely and showing a wait to start light cranking times could be long being there is nothing to control the VP44 and make it start. If the ECM isn't booted up then there is no communication to turn on the fuel pump relay which turns on the power for the VP44, then without the ECM there is no communication on the CANBus link to the VP44. Kind of like asking to surf the internet without booting up the computer it doesn't work too good. Air in the fuel will also cause hard starting too. Suction side leak can draw in small bubbles of air that is compressible and might prevent the injectors from firing. This can come from a few different things like bad o-rings on the injectors, cross over tube o-rings, bad return lines (tee at the rear or banjo bolt seals. Even with modified fuel systems like AirDog with quick connect fittings may leak air at times too. This can be resolved by replacing with the old school JIC push lock connections. With a bad crank sensor it may or may not start. Most of the ECM and PCM system don't come online till there is valid crank signal. This is part of a safety system so if there was a accident then when the engine stops the pump and fuel supply is cut off for fire protection and safety reasons. The older series like yours where the crank sensor is in the block the sensor doesn't hold up because of temperature changes. As the sensor is heated and cooled it breaks down the HAL effect coil and the magnet inside the sensor till the signal is weak. This is why in the later series the cam sensor was ditch and then crank sensor was moved to the cam location. Less heat and the sensors last much longer without failure. - Pennzoil with TC-3