Mopar1973Man

Nice those sand blasting cabinets can clean up parts really nice.

Basically what it comes down to for this issue. Being compression is good cold, I'm going to lean back on injectors because of the haze problem and possibly the ECM.

Yup. The hazing is not a good sign. Thor (2006 Dodge 3500) has this issue currently and I need some time to pull them down and send back to DAP for re-popping and flow matching. I need to just get the free time to pull it apart to start but time is very limited these days. The other body grounds have zero to do with any ECM or PCM those should be either passenger side battery to after the W-T ground mod on the gear case. The other grounds on the fenders and such are all aux stuff like lights and such. Fuel relay if its bad will throw a P1689 code. The IAT you already verified since it matching the ECT sensor. Changing that wont do much good. IAT only changes timing after it drops below +80*F then the stock ECM adds timing. If your already on the Quadzilla this is meaningless being the timing is control from Quadzilla and the IAT sensor only going to control grid heater function then.

Well just the simple requirements of a diesel. Needs fue land compression. As you stated your compression is 450 PSI +/-10. That's good. Being that we have test numbers there I would say move back to fuel. But even that has been checked. 7x0.010 Injectors at 310 bar 7k ago, and changed the VP44. The only thing I can say is send the ECM to be checked.

Might try hitting the download area and grabbing a factory service manual and it will explain the flow for all the gears.

From the supply pump at the head of the transmission. Most of it just returned to the pan. Oil that is flowing to the torque converter is passed through the cooler before returning. As for the other questions I'm not sure of. I've only owned one 46RE transmission (1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - Lil Red). I've worked on more manuals than autos sorry to say.

Now reaching out a bit. Now there is a older member here @jlwelding that had a misfire issue after warming up and his problem was a cracked piston. As the piston warmed up it would open the crack up and drop compression. Now I'll say being that yes you could do a blow by test but one bad cylinder will not make it fail. Now a compression test would show a cracked piston. Of course I'm not going to head this way until I know for sure all the simple stuff is for sure covered before heading deeper down the rabbit hole.

Do keep in mind the APPS sensor will not create a misfire. This will only possibly correct the P0122 code. As for the misfire hot that would be still be between the VP44 and the injectors but most commonly the injectors more so.

Good point I've seen people screw up and crush the key thinking they had it lined up. This offset might cause issues and run poorly.

JoAnne's has headliner material that you can buy in bulk. Different colors even. Just need to clean off all the old stuff and the spray contact cement and lay the new stuff down and let it set up in the warm sun. I'm lucky so far mine is in good condition yet.

Nope the wire is good. If the ohms were greater than 5 ohms then the wire would need replacing. That small bit of resistance shouldn't pull the voltage enough to set codes. Being even stock you can be as low as 0.4 volts at idle and still pass. I would try a different APPS sensor if possible first before considering the ECM. Even when that time comes I would say to call @Auto Computer Specialist and have them look it over and verify.

Strange how someone like me is running +150 HP DAP Injectors (popped at 320 bar) and Quadzilla tuner on a stock HX35W (54/60/12) turbo and towing my RV (8,100 pounds) with no EGT's issues all the way to Bridgeport CA. from New Meadows, ID.

First off the top on the injectors are you running VCO or SAC tips? I've SAC tip crack rather easily. I would pull them and inspect the injectors for cracked tips. I've seen a set of 140HP injectors in a 12V crack a tip in less than a 1,000 miles. Then pop pressure that gets too low will cause it to miss. When it starts dropping down in the 280 bar realm it can start a miss at idle hot. Just talked to another member just a few days ago and found out he sent his injection pump (VP44) in for testing and found out the PSG had issues and there was no timing advancement, and didn't throw a P0216 code. After having the injectors re-popped back to 320 bar (custom set) and having the VP44 replace the PSG and calibrated again fixed a bunch of his issues. As for the P0122 most likely the APPS sensor that failed but... Wiring wise to make it simple with both ends unhooked you want 0 ohms from end (APPS) to end (ECM) for wiring. Then the other test is red probe to the wire and the black probe to the block or battery ground. It should be infinite ohms being there should be no wires shorted to the block. This will get you pass the Dodge FSM stuff that is confusing.

Sad... I wonder what that headliner actually fits without the cutouts for the rear doors? I know LMC truck has the headliner for sale as well.

I've got a fur baby for the back bench. Loki, @Honey Badger dog seems to love to go trucking with me anywhere I go and love to guard the vehicle. Boy he gets mad when someone comes too close to the vehicle.

Agreed...

The worse part is the amount of water splashed everywhere. Other than that the old shampoo and soaps all rinsed out, all the dirt washed out and the seat dried in just a few hours. Yeah I used a shop vacuum to draw out the most water as possible. Even the driver seat and passenger seat were washed in the vehicle and dried within a few hours. I was driving it the very next day and not even damp. The seat bases of the seat you know how they seem to get sticky and hairy looking from spilled drinks or just dog hair sticking to stuff. All that washed out pretty quickly and look like new. Funny how you clean up a vehicle then drive it later... It feels like its running better and now I want to invest more effort into this little 4,200 pound mini-van and make it my run around rig.

As for the wood I've got some yet to be processed to see where it gets me too cord wise. Then I can see if we have enough or how much more I need to get. As for Minnie it's a good shopping rig being you can really pile in the groceries and supplies for the house. Does rather well for MPG just depending how you drive it. Drive like you got an egg under the pedal you can touch 30 MPG. So this is why I'm starting a story for Minnie I'm going to do some basic mods and some repairs.

Took my Sunday and did some work on Minnie. New headlights, LED bulb coming in a few weeks. I got aggressive and empty the Minnie out and started power washing the carpet. Boy it ran all kinds of weird brown colors. Used a shop vacuum to draw up the excess water. Also power washed all the seats, really good brighten them up a bunch. Then 5 gallon bucket of simple green and hot water and washed the inside down. My Armor All is old didn't work too good but it has some shine on the dash. Then power washed the entire body getting the black mold off the roof. Minnie cleaned up nice still has a few stains and a chemical burn in the carpet. Her she is now.

VP44 keys are numbered and calibrated to the pump. There is a article with the part numbers for the different keys which you normally buy from Cummins not a parts store.

Transfer case in neutral the transmission shouldn't spin. Also the oil pump in the transfer case is driven by the rear driveshaft. For what I know of the NV4500 even in neutral both upper and lower shafts spin when towed.

Nope it will be fine for a test.

Like I suggested you might have to consider that Allison being your load.

Now you know why I never buy prebled systems. Very low chance it's not got air in the system between manufacture, shipping to a store, you buy it ship it home and expect it not to get air back in the system. Just temperature changes during shipping can draw air in.