Mopar1973Man

California government is broken so is their school system. Out here very few kids go to school because most are home schooled. Families don't want the woke policies.

All 98.5 to 2002 are setup with 190°F not 180°F. 12V Cummins are setup with 180°F. Hotter thermostats are suggested for better thermal efficiency. Heat is attracted to cold so cooler thermostats will net less MPG and less power because percentage of the explosion is dumped back in the coolant. Hotter thermostats don't dump as much energy into the coolant jacket. Did you know there is a 200*F thermostat for the 6.7L that does fit our 2nd Gen 24V. Yup I've got a 200*F thermostat in the shop for winter time. Warmer IAT, better MPG, and better performance in cold. Typically my truck runs right at about 195*F to 197*F in coolant temp. Towing it could go as high as 225*F depending on how close or past 1,200*F EGT's. Typically a 7% grade with my RV I only see maybe 1,000*F to 1,100*F.

I'm sorry but nothing electrical will cause grinding. I would check the trans selector make sure it making it into park completely.

Really simple just randomly stuff wires together. Look at the photos you'll see the factory plug is stuffed with blade crimps.

My local NAPA sells the Stant style thermostats not the Robertshaw like Cummins. As I lookup right off my Prolink. As you can see my wholesale price to because I'm a vendor as well. Never had a NAPA thermostat fail.

@Honey Badger brought her truck down. The A/C and heater blower performance was poor. So i broke out the bore scope and fed it into the evaporator to see if it was plugged with debris. I started checking the blower rotation it was wired backwards. Once I put the black to the black/tan and green to the blue/yellow it has awesome blower performance. A/C is nice and cold and blows air strong out the vents. Zero cost, no parts, just fix someone's crappy wiring.

I'll sell mine for 30 dollars. See what you can do. But it will be here I've got an entire case of these diodes.

I only worry about the hold down cap at 89 in/lbs.

Got a box load of those left.

Let get home ill show what I've got but I do have your diodes.

Always the crossover tube first then the hold down next.

I normally pull the cables and bring them in. The only trouble is the 2002 list you have to back up to 2001. Same cables but they list. I use NAPA for most of my common stuff. Since I'm a business I can use NAPA prolink and can order parts myself, all parts are shipped on Tuesday morning.

Just jumped on my NAPA ProLink and here is a bunch of cables.

I just got a set a NAPA last year. Check over at Doorman I've seen them listed.

Give @Genos Garage a shot there our vendor on the might have what your looking for.

From the battery to the block on either side. I only measure 0.003 volts. If it not low then you need to change your ground cables not add a parallel cable. Parallel cable will only mask the issues of bad cable(s). I say fix the problem don't mask it with other added grounds. Another way to test hook jump cables between the negative ground and the block and check the voltage drop again. In the 9 different trucks I tested I got no difference in reading adding extra ground to the block or between batteries. Like most think I only work ony truck. Not true I've got lots of Cummins trucks I work on from ugly to super bad ***.

True. Because it cavitation and over working the same fuel. Still in all the the return from the head is the hottest fuel being its heat to the same temperature of the head.

Too much walking in cheap boots. @Honey Badger has manage to reset them but I was screaming when she did. I took part of the day of and slept in this morning. Im able to walk with a limp but walking.

Final ratio means the world to MPGs also the rotational mass. More rotational mass and improper final ratio you'll never reach the MPGs I do.

Be careful with Cummins OE they don't last long and may split apart. Cummins doesn't manufacture thermostats.

Umm. No. That sucks with the humidity. We topped last check at a 103°F the lost power for 3 hours. Here I am.

Stock fuel filter still being used. So what intake manifold is typical fuel will follow. Then your drawing out of the sender basket which has all the hot return fuel from the head. I draw out of the tank, away from the sender basket.

Remember the ECM is still damaged, and the damage is done. Wiring mods will only insure your rebuilt ECM will not be damaged. You will continue to have issues.

All I can say is it feels like I'm walking on a glass shard in my foot. Or better yet like someone is driving a spike through my right foot. Painful.