Mopar1973Man

Other than the spark plug will most likely grow with ash build up like our injectors would. That will never go away with trying to burn engine oil. This is why 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS.

The only thing that could cause a misfire either low compression or fuel injector. Could you crack injector lines and see if you can stop the misfire? This might isolate it down to a single cylinder then you know what to look for and where. Did you do new crossover tubes? Might be a bad tip or seat that is bleeding into the return rail causing the misfire.

Brakes go for aluminum. Cast Iron will rust and have issues as the brake fluid is hygroscopic (absorbs moisture). Aluminum will not react to moisture whereas cast iron will.

MAP sensor use a live data tool to verify the function of the MAP sensor. Quadzilla would be better to display true boost numbers. But still in all just to show you that MAP sensor you can on a Edge Comp unplug the MAP sensor the Edge Comp will sit at max boost and still run just fine just smokes like a freight train. If there is no P0236 (too high too long), P0237 too low volts, P0238 too high it should be working typically.

This is one reason why I don't worry about store brand oils typically. Like for example NAPA oils come from a name brand source if I'm not mistaken Valvoline. All lubricants are required to meet the quality standards of the API seal on the bottles. Same with all lubricants or fluids there is a standard it must meet before it can be sold. Kind of like a old member here @dorkweed he ran 84k miles on a single oil change and was using a bypass filter. Only thing he would do is change filters, capture a sample and sent it off to blackstone for test and top off and run another 7k miles. No damage or issue with running 84,000 miles on Walmart Super Tech 15w-40 engine oil.

I had a direct number to Blue Top and noticed the same then. The phone number was dropped from the website and email only. The account action is so all the book records are securely stored for you. Kind of like here it makes handling purchase issues easier because there is account to store that information. Yes it seem like Blue Top dropped all phone contact from there website. The only thing you can do is just email them and go from there.

So the common problem is the suction side of the system. All the lines between the pump and the fuel tank can leak while running sucking air in and also while parked and draw air in and drain the fuel lines down. Crossover tubes can leak air in while parked and so can the return line plumbing like the banjo seals at the rear of the head and the tee fitting at the rear of the engine. Then my last one was what I had was bad o-rings on the injectors and it would weep air in and bleed the prime off. As for the suction side you can make sure it has running prime like after a drive and then using the blower side of a shop vacuum pressurize the fuel tank and then have a second person look for moist spots at joints in the suction side. Good. The ECM and PCM are most likely fine then. As for the crank sensor. In the basic sense the senor is a small barrel magnet wrapped with thin copper wire. How it functions as a metal tooth comes near the sensor it creates a frequency pulse. Ohm it out will just verify the winding is still good but cant measure the magnet flux and its strength. As metal passes by and the pulse is made the ECM counts the pulse (or frequency) and with a bit of math it can figure out engine RPM. This is why it would be optimal to have a oscilloscope for testing this. Now as for why the sensor fails. I've got to ask one dumb question. Q: How do you destroy a magnet? Well there is physically striking a magnet with a hammer which randomizes the flux in the magnet. The other way is heating and cooling. Most of the problems with the early 24V crank sensors I believe is from the heat cycles on the magnet and the pulses get to weak over time and then ECM calls out the error. This why the cam sensor was ditched and the crank sensor was moved to the gear case where its cooler.

I can understand what @W-T is saying about RF energies. Makes a lot of sense. I still would say remove the tuner first though and verify that the RF energy isn't attacking something like the Edge Comp which could be creating the issue hence run a week with it completely removed. See if the week returns to normal. Being the Edge Comp is riding on the CANBus data and handles it directly. Since the route of the wiring from the CANBus connector on the block to the inside cab makes the bus exposed to RF radiation being none of that is shielded to grounded to the block to keep the signal clean. So by adding a tuner your exposing the Bus to more RF energies in a RF energy rich area like W-T example. The only shielded CANBus data is between the ECM to VP44 which is actually covered in shield jacket. As you can see Orange/Brown wire noted in the wiring which has no pin at the injection pump being its deadheaded at the end of the VP44 plug.

I've got to ask does the wait to start light come on instantly? Being if the ECM isn't booted up completely and showing a wait to start light cranking times could be long being there is nothing to control the VP44 and make it start. If the ECM isn't booted up then there is no communication to turn on the fuel pump relay which turns on the power for the VP44, then without the ECM there is no communication on the CANBus link to the VP44. Kind of like asking to surf the internet without booting up the computer it doesn't work too good. Air in the fuel will also cause hard starting too. Suction side leak can draw in small bubbles of air that is compressible and might prevent the injectors from firing. This can come from a few different things like bad o-rings on the injectors, cross over tube o-rings, bad return lines (tee at the rear or banjo bolt seals. Even with modified fuel systems like AirDog with quick connect fittings may leak air at times too. This can be resolved by replacing with the old school JIC push lock connections. With a bad crank sensor it may or may not start. Most of the ECM and PCM system don't come online till there is valid crank signal. This is part of a safety system so if there was a accident then when the engine stops the pump and fuel supply is cut off for fire protection and safety reasons. The older series like yours where the crank sensor is in the block the sensor doesn't hold up because of temperature changes. As the sensor is heated and cooled it breaks down the HAL effect coil and the magnet inside the sensor till the signal is weak. This is why in the later series the cam sensor was ditch and then crank sensor was moved to the cam location. Less heat and the sensors last much longer without failure.

Nice those sand blasting cabinets can clean up parts really nice.

Basically what it comes down to for this issue. Being compression is good cold, I'm going to lean back on injectors because of the haze problem and possibly the ECM.

Yup. The hazing is not a good sign. Thor (2006 Dodge 3500) has this issue currently and I need some time to pull them down and send back to DAP for re-popping and flow matching. I need to just get the free time to pull it apart to start but time is very limited these days. The other body grounds have zero to do with any ECM or PCM those should be either passenger side battery to after the W-T ground mod on the gear case. The other grounds on the fenders and such are all aux stuff like lights and such. Fuel relay if its bad will throw a P1689 code. The IAT you already verified since it matching the ECT sensor. Changing that wont do much good. IAT only changes timing after it drops below +80*F then the stock ECM adds timing. If your already on the Quadzilla this is meaningless being the timing is control from Quadzilla and the IAT sensor only going to control grid heater function then.

Well just the simple requirements of a diesel. Needs fue land compression. As you stated your compression is 450 PSI +/-10. That's good. Being that we have test numbers there I would say move back to fuel. But even that has been checked. 7x0.010 Injectors at 310 bar 7k ago, and changed the VP44. The only thing I can say is send the ECM to be checked.

Might try hitting the download area and grabbing a factory service manual and it will explain the flow for all the gears.

From the supply pump at the head of the transmission. Most of it just returned to the pan. Oil that is flowing to the torque converter is passed through the cooler before returning. As for the other questions I'm not sure of. I've only owned one 46RE transmission (1996 Dodge Ram 1500 - Lil Red). I've worked on more manuals than autos sorry to say.

Now reaching out a bit. Now there is a older member here @jlwelding that had a misfire issue after warming up and his problem was a cracked piston. As the piston warmed up it would open the crack up and drop compression. Now I'll say being that yes you could do a blow by test but one bad cylinder will not make it fail. Now a compression test would show a cracked piston. Of course I'm not going to head this way until I know for sure all the simple stuff is for sure covered before heading deeper down the rabbit hole.

Do keep in mind the APPS sensor will not create a misfire. This will only possibly correct the P0122 code. As for the misfire hot that would be still be between the VP44 and the injectors but most commonly the injectors more so.

Good point I've seen people screw up and crush the key thinking they had it lined up. This offset might cause issues and run poorly.

JoAnne's has headliner material that you can buy in bulk. Different colors even. Just need to clean off all the old stuff and the spray contact cement and lay the new stuff down and let it set up in the warm sun. I'm lucky so far mine is in good condition yet.

Nope the wire is good. If the ohms were greater than 5 ohms then the wire would need replacing. That small bit of resistance shouldn't pull the voltage enough to set codes. Being even stock you can be as low as 0.4 volts at idle and still pass. I would try a different APPS sensor if possible first before considering the ECM. Even when that time comes I would say to call @Auto Computer Specialist and have them look it over and verify.

Strange how someone like me is running +150 HP DAP Injectors (popped at 320 bar) and Quadzilla tuner on a stock HX35W (54/60/12) turbo and towing my RV (8,100 pounds) with no EGT's issues all the way to Bridgeport CA. from New Meadows, ID.

First off the top on the injectors are you running VCO or SAC tips? I've SAC tip crack rather easily. I would pull them and inspect the injectors for cracked tips. I've seen a set of 140HP injectors in a 12V crack a tip in less than a 1,000 miles. Then pop pressure that gets too low will cause it to miss. When it starts dropping down in the 280 bar realm it can start a miss at idle hot. Just talked to another member just a few days ago and found out he sent his injection pump (VP44) in for testing and found out the PSG had issues and there was no timing advancement, and didn't throw a P0216 code. After having the injectors re-popped back to 320 bar (custom set) and having the VP44 replace the PSG and calibrated again fixed a bunch of his issues. As for the P0122 most likely the APPS sensor that failed but... Wiring wise to make it simple with both ends unhooked you want 0 ohms from end (APPS) to end (ECM) for wiring. Then the other test is red probe to the wire and the black probe to the block or battery ground. It should be infinite ohms being there should be no wires shorted to the block. This will get you pass the Dodge FSM stuff that is confusing.

Sad... I wonder what that headliner actually fits without the cutouts for the rear doors? I know LMC truck has the headliner for sale as well.

I've got a fur baby for the back bench. Loki, @Honey Badger dog seems to love to go trucking with me anywhere I go and love to guard the vehicle. Boy he gets mad when someone comes too close to the vehicle.