Mopar1973Man

All I can say I really hate Spicer U-joints being the trunnion center is beefy and requires torch to cut them out, being you can push far enough to get the caps out. Then ive got less than 2k miles and the rear most u-joint is already failing. I'm going to change out for NAPA greasable u-joint ditch these sealed Spicers at least I can keep a greasable for quite a long time. Yes I spent 630 dollar for a shop to rebuild my driveshaft, spun balanced, new Spicer u joints and carrier bearing. I'll never use sealed u-joints.

Heck if you can't have fun... Why not black and blue hair??? We all friends and family here... Spring of 2022, Mono Village - Bridgeport, CA Yeah I enjoyed that trip and miss you guys...

Heck you boys already busted me with my "Blue and Black" hair... I've got nothing to hide...

PITA. Last one I pulled out its was f-ing tight. The worse part is get all the radiator and intercooler out and then even with all that out squeeze the oil pan up over the frame and not slam the rocker arms and push rods into the cowl. Yeah I'll admit I got it out but bent 3 push rods doing it. I've learned a few more things since then so I think I could do it much faster and better without damaging stuff. One thing is that firewall mat is coming out.

I used to do quite a bit of video work with clients few years back and want to get back to doing that once again. Because I can see and hear things about the truck and point out solutions much easier than photos and/or text. I can get the member to show me different things right on the phone.

Yeah that if my batteries were ran dead by dang kids 2 different times and couldn't keep the furnace going. Once I get new batteries I'll be back to dry camping. But thank you for the full hook ups that trip.

Nope he's buying the engine I'm just hired to swap the engines.

Love too do video chats, I've got Messenger on my phone. Zoom I've never used.

12V typically have a fuel basket with pick up tube and fuel sender for the gauge.

Should watch the video. It wasn't but one revolution during start up I heard the dead hole. Once it was running it was knocking on the dead hole which sounds like back at number 6. I could be wrong but it for sure got a dead hole.

Might be challenging. 12V engines as far as I know never had a in tank fuel pump. This had to be retrofit deal.

Yes the truck is worth it but I'm sure the engine is going to be pulled and replaced. The owner said he has a source for a new engine. As for the cost I'm not totally sure as of yet but we will see. I'm pretty sure its number 6 cylinder is got bad rings or at the worst a melted piston. As you seen the TikTok above the blow by was strong. Considering the fact the closest machine shop that handles Cummins is all the way down in Nampa ID area. If he going to have a new engine sourced out then we will just swap and even the owner talked about later rebuilding the damaged engine and keeping it. Yeah it got for sure one cylinder blown. My guess is 6 in the way it behaves but we will find out in time when a engine swap occurs. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRQdt1Uv/ <- Watch the video...

Like I tried to tell you guy the stuff I end up working on is usually a huge mess. He's going to need a new engine to drop in and a new set of injectors. At this point the owner needs to get his finances together.

https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRQdt1Uv/ Client called and asked me to come out and look at a oil leak on 2006 Dodge Cummins. When I open the hood I knew already. Over 200k on the injectors and most likely wiped out number 6 piston. Watch the TikTok.

That's just a day job there for doing the tappet cover. I can pull the VP44, the fuel filter, and ECM and replace the tappet gasket easy. W-T ground wire mod is about 1 to 2 hours to do... I've done several while I was hauling @MoparMom back and forth to Ontario, OR. With 4.5 hour wait might as well be productive right?

Sorry to say I don't have the experience inside a transmission either being I never got the time to go up and do the training in Washington for rebuilding. The other problem I don't have the tools for pulling the bearings off the shaft either. I could easily pull the transmission and have it on the floor in about 2 hours. Just a matter of finding a shop willing to change the bearing in a timely manner and then about 3 hours to put it back in. That's barring there is no issues, bolts stripped, etc.

You could install a 6.7L thermostat that is 200°F. @pepsi71ocean been running one for quite some time. That's one I've never had either the door is stuck full hot or full cold. Mine I've had it apart and glue the plastic coupler back together with super glue being I was short on time. I needed the truck right now type moment so its still working yet.

Typically when the plastic coupler breaks then the motor just keeps turning and never stops. The last one I went to service it would turn both ways and never stop but the air temp will not change from hot to cold or visa versa. As for heat issues two thing to check both hoses should NOT be equally hot. If the heater core is performing good then the one hose going to the steel tube (not going to the head) should be considerable cooler than the hose from the head. So if the hot side is 195*F roughly while the truck is running the cold side could be as low as 100 to 120*F returning back to the water pump. This show good heat transfer to the air. If both hoses are equally hot then the heater core is plugged internally with debris or externally plugged at the evaporator. The other one I found is if the evaporator core is plugged up with debris on the face then heater performance will suffer. Like the photo below I replaced the heater core, then power washed the evaporator core removed all the debris and the customer complained about being cooked to death in the cab. When all is working you should see about 160*F to 170*F out of the center vent on high fan and temperature knob over to full hot.

Well... I could hop on a plane and rip that transmission out in about 2 hours and maybe get the bearing redone in a short order and stab it back in the next day. Sad part is that no matter how you look at it it does cost.

I had a customer that wanted me to change his clutch but when I pulled the transfer case the gap between was fully of ATF and trans gear lube. Previous installer silicone the mating faces and plugged the drain hole. I changed both transfer case and transmission seal to have it leak again. Transmission had a bad bearing.

Shaft bearing is bad most likely.

Like my truck the AirDog is right behind the transfer case. Guarded by the transfer case and skid plate.

Shouldn't matter being a long as the fuel lines are parallel to the frame and the inlet is facing rearward.

Found the old pipe this was my stainless pipe and how it failed. Like I said stainless will melt and fail so be very careful. From what I remember it was 904 stainless stove pipe seamless as you can see the pipe got hot and start to distort.

Here would be my suggestion. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B086BQJD85/?coliid=I2VRUFEAK8A93W&colid Magnetic Induction Heater which will heat that block heater up and should allow you to get the heater unscrewed. Typically I just get a big socket and long handle breaker bar and they typically come out. Ford 7.3L are no different and just down by the oil filter on the driver side. I've change 2 of those without even drain coolant.