Mopar1973Man

Agreed...

The worse part is the amount of water splashed everywhere. Other than that the old shampoo and soaps all rinsed out, all the dirt washed out and the seat dried in just a few hours. Yeah I used a shop vacuum to draw out the most water as possible. Even the driver seat and passenger seat were washed in the vehicle and dried within a few hours. I was driving it the very next day and not even damp. The seat bases of the seat you know how they seem to get sticky and hairy looking from spilled drinks or just dog hair sticking to stuff. All that washed out pretty quickly and look like new. Funny how you clean up a vehicle then drive it later... It feels like its running better and now I want to invest more effort into this little 4,200 pound mini-van and make it my run around rig.

As for the wood I've got some yet to be processed to see where it gets me too cord wise. Then I can see if we have enough or how much more I need to get. As for Minnie it's a good shopping rig being you can really pile in the groceries and supplies for the house. Does rather well for MPG just depending how you drive it. Drive like you got an egg under the pedal you can touch 30 MPG. So this is why I'm starting a story for Minnie I'm going to do some basic mods and some repairs.

Took my Sunday and did some work on Minnie. New headlights, LED bulb coming in a few weeks. I got aggressive and empty the Minnie out and started power washing the carpet. Boy it ran all kinds of weird brown colors. Used a shop vacuum to draw up the excess water. Also power washed all the seats, really good brighten them up a bunch. Then 5 gallon bucket of simple green and hot water and washed the inside down. My Armor All is old didn't work too good but it has some shine on the dash. Then power washed the entire body getting the black mold off the roof. Minnie cleaned up nice still has a few stains and a chemical burn in the carpet. Her she is now.

VP44 keys are numbered and calibrated to the pump. There is a article with the part numbers for the different keys which you normally buy from Cummins not a parts store.

Transfer case in neutral the transmission shouldn't spin. Also the oil pump in the transfer case is driven by the rear driveshaft. For what I know of the NV4500 even in neutral both upper and lower shafts spin when towed.

Nope it will be fine for a test.

Like I suggested you might have to consider that Allison being your load.

Now you know why I never buy prebled systems. Very low chance it's not got air in the system between manufacture, shipping to a store, you buy it ship it home and expect it not to get air back in the system. Just temperature changes during shipping can draw air in.

I would pull the entire air system and wash everything out with solvent and air dry. The only oil source is a failed turbo. The only reason a turbo would fail is not properly cooled off before shutdown or dust collecting on the compressor wheel and it gets out of balance. Remember turbos spin at a very high rate like 15,000 RPMs or more depending on fuel and turbo size. Dust problem typically from washable filters like K&N.

Pull the entire hydraulic system out and hang it by the reservoir and pump the slave cylinder. Quickly in, release slowly. You cannot bled in the vehicle because the line has a high spot that gathers air in.

I really don't like prebled clutch hydraulics being 80% you have to rebled again. Then most misadjust the pedal rod length. I typically use NAPA master & slave separate and works 100% of the time. As for that thin MTF it tends to wear out syncros faster than something thicker. I'm also using brass syncro allows thicker lubes, but still 1st and 2nd are carbon fiber syncros. No problems all the way down to -40°F with Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid which is 90 weight gear lube. Most of my trans issues was wear of the hard facing from using that factory Mopar fluid 75W-85 which is like 10W-30 engine oil. Now ive had most all the gears replaced from hard facing wearing out and breaking teeth.

I wish I had more trailer time to test. I've only done the trip to California but I had high wind the whole trip. Mostly about 8 to 9 MPG because of wind. The only other time I've tow my trailer was up to Burgdorf, ID but never got a MPG. Also all up hill. So there is no good data to say it actually economy tune.

PCM does not control anything on the engine. Only charging, transmission controls, and a few minor functions. P0216 code just means the ECM commanded a timing change and the VP44 did not change in the allotted time. Yes this does mean the VP44 should be replaced. Now if you had other codes then might change the outcome.

I lost my first VP44 at 50k, stock fuel system with only 7 PSI. This was the start of the website and the very first article. I installed a AirDog 150 shortly after that VP44 failed and kept 14 to 20 PSI that got that VP44 to last 243k miles. Still going on this VP44 at 451k miles. So in nearly half a million miles only installed two VP44. With the stock filter in place I'm polishing my fuel through the AirDog and the stock filter. As for the P0216 code it's more lubricity than fuel pressure. The piston galls up and sticks or seizes up. 4 ways to kill a VP44 1. Low fuel pressure even the Dodge FSM states 10 PSI minimum. 2. Low fuel lubricity Bosch states <460 HFRR or less, US fuel is 520 HFRR. 3. High AC noise from alternator. 4. Poor filtration.

Addon. We unplugged the PCM and central timer and 50A battery fuse. Draw is gone. Plug in any of the above the draw is back. So I'm assuming PCM and central timer have issues. Another addon... just talked to the customer and just going to put a cutoff switch.

I've been helping too. It's got the draw on the 40A trailer fuse in the PDC. As mentioned the trailer brake controller has be replaced. Then we separated the trail light loom and no change so the draw is in the cab.

Let me dive in... Cranking fuel pressure should be 7 to 12 PSI. If it is above 12 PSI it will create a hard start issue. Running fuel pressure should be 14 to 20 PSI. 14 PSI is the minimum to keep the overflow valve open fully and keep return flow going. Above 20 PSI you take a risk at blowing the pump seal out. Yeah I'm sure there is people out there past 20 PSI but I've seen just 22 PSI blow the front seal out. As for an AirDog 100, 150, 165 all use a power relay to supply power and keep the stress off the ECM electrically. Injectors if they have over 100k just replace them. Injectors typically get low pop pressure and get slightly higher idle. Check your engine load at idle warm if close to zero then the injectors are shot.

Ok the best I can say alternator wise have your alternator bench tested. If it doesn't pass then its time to replace. Now as for the voltage regulator its inside the PCM. You need to pull the field lead and start the truck. The blue lead should show +12V and then the green should show -12V (or ground). This should only be present when the PCM sees tach signal from the ECM. If there is still charging issues then your going to need to send the PCM to a rebuilder like @Auto Computer Specialist have them test and repair your PCM. I've also got to ask did you do a W-T ground wire mod yet? If not I highly suggest you get this done very soon.

Still going to need the book I've also got a cruise control issue it won't set. The Cruise on/off switch works I've ohm tested the "set" switch and it works but not actually working. I just swapped a working cruise servo from a 1996 Dodge Dakota still doesn't work. I've even opened the old servo and it has a small 1/4 tear in the rubber diaphragm. Hence the swap I did. The wet carpet was (past tense) windshield was rotten at the top the glass has been replaced and the metal repaired. Then it was door seal wasn't in the proper track and sealing. Then the HVAC case was leaking on the passenger side because the cowl trough was plugged and would drain so it would slosh the water in the air intake. Also fixed. Why I'm looking for the book is to find the ground location. I would have to pull up both driver seat and passenger to even roll the carpet back to even look. I could roll the edge up a bit but not much. I've really not seen any leaks since but I still need to find the interior ground location for a 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan 3.3L Pushrod engine. Minnie has been a wonderful little rig and been seeing between 25 to 30 MPG. Barely a 4,200 pound vehicle (yup I've scaled it).

Hey I'm hoping someone can find me a wiring diagram for "Minnie". I've got a weird issue with the fuel gauge that usually depends if the carpet got wet or damp in the front. When it does get wet the fuel gauge will drop to EMPTY and chime the low fuel light. Once it dries out again the fuel gauge works as designed. The sender is working correctly and not wore out but dropping the signal to the dash to display how much. I'm figuring its a ground wire but I don't want to tear the entire vehicle apart without a wiring map. Just did about 30 minutes of Google hunting and turned up nothing.

Really? Hmmm... 451k miles later still going. The only battery issue I had was the old starter was having issues and acted like the batteries were dead but after installing the new rebuilt starter, which was my factory OEM starter it started once quick and strong, then the solenoid plunger stuck and wouldn't let go. I have to remove and free the solenoid plunger and been working since. No it didn't arc and stick but wedged the plunger pin inside. Here very soon with winter coming Beast will be my daily driver. It has to be top notch and operating perfectly. Both batteries as they are right now. Dirty as well. Looks like power washing and oiling needed just a small spot of oxidation.

Nope. Never happened with me... I do wash off the batteries with a power washer and then reapply after the washing.

You might want to look back at my post I did look up the viscosity of ATF+4 and its thinner than you think. I was editing my post to add this information. Yes I do understand the viscosity differences between gear oil and crankcase oils. Still in all I do understand that thinner oils do create less drag but do they cling to parts under stress and protect at extreme loads and highway speeds or are they just slung off the parts from centrifugal forces? Like when I look back towards true racing they use some seriously thick fluids to keep everything lubed up. Just food for thoughts...

You might want to look at the ISSPro EV2 Trans Temp gauge for the fan controller. You can get the USB program cable and program the optional relay for a set temperature to turn on the fan and then set your warning light even higher. I thought if I ever install a ISSPro in like Minnie the 1999 Dodge Grand Caravan I would set the fan for 170*F and then warning light for 200*F. This way the fan comes on when needed and not on a toggle switch or keyed hot lead. This allows for quick warm up of the transmission and still protects for working load temperatures.