Mopar1973Man

Already have a video clip to process for the wiring repair for the trailer brake lead to the back of the truck. Then in the Elite article section I already have the cluster article for wild tach issues. More to come.

Well I made the trip down to Parma ID with Thor. All I can say is I'm not impressed at all for towing. This happens to be the slowest truck for towing my 2000 Jayco Eagle RV. EGTs are high even running flat ground it's 800 to 1000°F at 65 MPH. Climb any hill with cruise set at 60 MPH it would trip my pyrometer alert light. Thor is a 2006 Dodge 3500 SRW, 6 speed transmission with a Valair Quiet Towing Dual Disc Clutch. 3.73 gears and 4WD. There are +50 HP DAP injectors. Now ive got performance issue vs EGTs. Cold start its got a miss or rough idle till warmed up I'm suspecting that there is a cylinder with washed rings but not enough to bother the oil cap yet. Once warmed up it runs good. I've got a extra AirDog 150 pump in the shop. I'm planning on installing it on Thor. Then I want to add a matching ISSPro Fuel Pressure gauge on a triple a pillar. Down the list when funds become available I'm going to get a mm3 tuner. I know without a doubt the stock tune is really retarded in timing for smog reasons. I plan on making a excellent 3rd Gen work truck. I've got lots of ideas for interior mods and repairs.

Yup that should work.

So if you follow the pink wire from the fuse to the interior lighting that is 12V + then just on the dome light you'll see the yellow wire leaving which is 12V+ yet. Then hits the joint connector and changes to tan wire still that tan wire is 12V+ yet when the door is closed or the door pin is disconnected. Now if you touch the tan wire to the ground the lights come on because you provided a ground path to complete the circuit. Again just look for the 12V+ lead that is hot and that is your wire to hook too. Because the black/light green wire is ground and wouldn't work the steps would never close.

There is 12V at the door pins. The interior lights are power by the IOD fuse in the cab then pink wire runs to all lights the the ground leg which is the wire color that mentioned by @IBMobile that is the ground leg and will complete the circuit when the doors are opened and the pin pops out to connect to ground.

So if this is true then look for the wire that has +12V when wire is disconnected from the door switch this is the interior light lead. When it's hooked up the door pin gives ground to the interior lights to complete the circuit to turn on the lights.

The final ratio of 3.73 is best. Like myself, I've dropped to 245/75 R16 tires (30.5 inch) compared to 265/75 R16 tires (31.6 Inch) which are one inch shorter but brought my final ratio from 3.55 to 3.69 which is just 1 inch of tire did this. Now my cruise state at 66 MPH nets me 2,000 RPMs which is the middle of the torque curve and allows me to reach the cruise state of the Quadzilla easily. That is where I'm getting my high MPGs between the cruise RPM, 24.5-degree timing, and my modified injectors which are popped 10 bar high but that retards the timing roughly 2 degrees but made that up on the Quadzilla now I've got clean fine mist for injection events. Now remember for every 1 pound of rotation mass you ditch is like 8 pounds off the frame. This is another reason I won't upgrade to 3rd Gen brakes because you are adding rotational mass to the axles. Then which oversized tires also adds weight to the axles. Then if your adding the 2 inch leveling kit you just ditch the natural rake of the front end and now adding more wind drag.

Ummm I'm already touched 30 MPG at 500 HP at the rear end with just a simple 5 speed NV4500. Running custom tuning on the Quadzilla Adrenaline where timing is about 24.5 degrees BTDC. Changed out the stock 265s for 245s tires changing my final ratio to 3.69 which puts me at 2k rpms at 66 MPH. I crossed the entire state of Washington for just 1/4 of a tank of fuel. If you want MPG you need to chat with me. There is way simpler ways to get high MPGs than swapping transmissions.

The ratios above you would be starting out in 5th gear. That would be close to first gear on a 5 speed. The entire bottom end is wasted with first at 14:1 is way too low. Then most likely skipping gears up. Then top gear at 1:1 direct is only 4th gear on a 5 or 5th gear on a 6 speed. 5 speed top is 0.75 6 speed top is 0.73 4 speed auto top is 0.68

Man I know why I hate Fords. This A/C compressor is a PITA to change out.

Look up the ratios for each gear and see what the ratios are. This means much more than number of gears.

Consider the fact I can launch out of 2nd or 3rd gear (little tall). Then I can be in 4th gear by 25 MPH, then hit 5th gear (overdrive) and bury the tach at like 110 MPH. That's 3.69:1 final ratio after tires. Nv4500 in top gear is 0.75:1 ratio. 47RE in top gear 0.68:1 ratio.

Something to be aware of... I know a few members did Allison transmission which is 6 speeds and the final ratio in the top gear is too low of ratio in the RPM's will be too low running down the road. Optimally you should see about 2k RPM's at about 65 MPH. It will not hurt to run 2,450 RPM even at 80 MPH which I'm currently set up for with my 5 speed. Being too low in the RPM range while running the highway will be an issue, being the timing will be more retarded and create higher EGT's. Cummins ISB is actually designed to be ran at about 1,800 to 2,500 RPM's from their own specs. The other problem I see a lot is the members with larger tires on 3.55 axles and this will net you higher EGT's and lower MPG's. For example 35 inch tires on 3.55 gears will create a final of roughly 3.27:1 to the ground. The final ratio does matter... The other that was popular years ago was the addon over drive box (Gear Vendors) this did the same thing most people tried using the extra overdrive and dropped the RPM's too low and now EGT's sored, MPG fell.

Agreed. I will do that and see if the track bar moves. Typically the inner steel sleeve in the bushing is a bit wider and got some teeth on the tip to bite into the ear when tightened. These seem to be smooth from the factory (assuming).

My new sender came yesterday. Now all I got to do is install the fuel pressure sender and see what happens... Stay tuned I'll report back soon.

Hey there gang... I ran into a clunking noise that was associated with the track bar which we can see the bar moving. After inspection of the bar which Mark did for me. Come to find out that the track bar was not properly tightened last time it was installed. It managed to wear a little bit and was banging back and forth on the bolts. Bushing appear to be fine but was capable of moving just a bit and making a clunk. Now after just looking it over and reinstalling and getting the bolts tight, the clunk is gone now. Thor is going to be hauling a trailer today and then returning. My renter Mark is going to make the run for me so I can handle chasing parts for the other job I've got here. I figured I would share this tidbit so you might want to check suspension tightness to ensure it's not a replacement problem but make sure the hardware is properly tightened.

I've done one trans swap here. Converted from a 47RE automatic to a NV4500 5 speed. I did it in 2 days with the help of the truck owner. Not too bad of a project.

Shoot, Shovel, Shut up.

Three S rule... A simple solution to a problem.

If it was me I would buy a ISSPro EV2 Transmission Temperature gauge, ISSPro EV2 programming cable and then the optional relay addon. Now Hook up the ISSPro as usual with the temperature probe in the pan of the transmission. Now I would program the transmission temp warning light for 220 or so. I would set the optional relay for say 160 degree. So now that relay will turn on the cooling fan for your transmission cooler. Being programable you can adjust your fan on and off times and so forth. So now your transmission temperature gauge controls the fan for you. Totally programmable!

Yeah, the post above is a possible solution to a starter issue. Myself I have an alternator shop in Nampa ID I visit for my alternator and starter parts if needed. Now I can drop off an alternator or starter and have them rebuilt which I did last time with my OEM starter and found out the windings on the armature were burned. Make sure to have the starter tested before investing money into rebuild parts to only find out you might have a burned winding in the housing or in the armature and would really kind of suck to dump money on a starter to find out it still not going to work 100%. As for my supplier, I deal with DuroBilt out of Nampa ID. Durobilt 215 1st Ave S, Nampa, ID 83651 (208) 466-7814

Finally I had a fuel pressure sensor fail on my ISSPro EV2. On my trip to observe my fuel pressure got irratic and then started to climb. I got off the I84 and pulled in a truck stop. Shut down. Key back on and the needle swept to zero then back to 25 PSI. Airdog was not running should be zero pressure. Pulled the sensor lead and turned the key on again then the gauge swept to zero and then back to straight down this is a sign of missing sensor. Ok. So I know I've got a bad sensor. On my way over to Parma ID I called @dieselautopower and ordered me a new fuel pressure sensor. I'll post more on the diagnostics when I get home.

Well just to enlighten you. I'm still on my OEM turbo HX35W still with +150 HP injectors (7 x 0.010). Injectors wise I can most likely get you a deal on some injectors. Even a small upgrade in power. Quadzilla would improve the MPG by ditching the stock ECM tune. Might take a peek at what my store has... https://store.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24-valve/fuel-system/reman-vco-injectors.html https://store.mopar1973man.com/quadzilla-adrenaline-with-iquad-for-01-02-cummins.html

Ummm... That's why I'm building custom tunes for my members. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-mopar1973mans-custom-tunes/

Timing. When all the fuel is burned in the cylinder and nothing is left then when the exhaust occurs there is little expanding gases hence lower EGTs. Retard timing which will have burning and expanding gases enter the turbo which now creates boost also. But a part of those gases are wasted creating boost. So at 66 MPH I'm at 2k RPMs. In cruise state I'm at about 24° BTDC then when I get into power a little then the timing drops to 17° BTDC. Now with the Quadzilla on zero, now I'm at 17° BTDC at cruise state same speed and RPM. Under power it drops to 12° BTDC. Now it's got smoke and higher EGTs. Because fuel is wasted in building boost and more fire wasted out the exhaust.