Mopar1973Man

Check the interior ground in the driver side kick panel. Then the ECM and PCM grounds are on the passenger side battery.

Awesome looking RV. Let's see interior photos.

First thought is injectors. Have them tested for excessive return flow. I just had Thor's injectors sent back for excessive return flow. Possible a bad nozzle maybe?

More to show... @Honey Badger and myself at a waterfall park. Another water way. All the creeks are from rainfall not a spring. It's that wet over here.

What a storage locker find.

My 2002 (Beast). I can cross the entire state of Washington just a 1/4 tank. I'm running 150 HP injectors on a stock HX35W turbo with a 5 speed. I've been build custom tunes for last 8 years. Something Smarty or Edge can't do. https://www.tiktok.com/t/ZTRwpTsgc/

Yeah my secret is out. Yeah I'm in Hawaii enjoying a 2 week vacation. I couldn't turn it down being all I needed was air fare and bit of spending cash. @Honey Badger brother lives over here on the main island. We didn't need a hotel nor a rental car. That saves a bunch right there. First two days we gathered food and munchies for us and more or less just rested here at the house. But I did get few photos to share for now. This is looking off the back deck towards the ocean. We did a bit of wondering and looking around. Yup got to get close to the water but not in it yet. More to come. Just like today I've got a appointment for pedicures for both of us at 4pm. We might go wonder around with Katie's brother truck before the appointment. Saturday and Sunday going to be on the beach soaking it up. Weather here is very mild lows of 60s the high of 70s. It tends to rain a little every day on the wet side of the island.

Actually I run the Quadzilla reverse I run timing with cut fuel better for MPGs. Running 24 to 25 degrees at 2k RPM but my low boost pulls the fuel down hence running timing but cut fuel to 60%. I've already hit 28.2 MPG breaking my old high mark from Edge Comp.

Some areas of Idaho have smog checks yet but I'm in a county that doesn't have emissions testing as of yet. As for the Quadzilla I've made my fuel table to mimic stock fuel levels from launching up to about 5 PSI then the full fuel is felt from the injectors. Then, above 15 PSI the full CANBus and the wiretap can be felt level selectable. I've got that good I can write a tune to mimic stock fuel even with +150HP injectors installed and would most likely pass the emissions test if needed. Again, I Iook at it differently I can reduce my fuel consumption and then allowing for better MPGs and since I'm not burning much fuel I'm not polluting or wasting fuel.

One of the few reasons I love the Quadzilla. I know that a member here Me78569 was able to pass smog with the Smarty at 50% power levels.

40 warm up cycles. So you have to start with a cold engine and warm up fully for 40 cycles without tripping the code again. Much easier to clear the codes and drive the truck to check for new codes and verify it is still clear.

After your repair, fill your coolant system with water and add a shot of Tide laundry soap. Run the engine till fully warmed up (190*F). This should help on removing all the oil from the coolant system. As for the crankcase you might want to change oil once and then add a bottle of engine flush and run as directed on the bottle. Afterwards change the oil again to hopefully remove all the water. When doing a oil change park it in the evening and let it drain all night. This is the only way I do my oil changes and you'll get nearly 100% of all the old out of the engine and it will stay cleaner longer.

The only reason I can give to the oil cooler is most likely old coolant that turned acidic and corroded through the cooler metal and once weakened then it ruptured oil passing into the coolant first. Then when shut down the coolant pressure pushed back into the oil system.

I know DAP and Vulcan Performance are both selling Bosch Certified Pumps.

Double check the stock lift pump lead for power. Old stock pump have been known to fry the ECM driver circuit for the lift pump. You are most likely seeing 12V for the power lead hooked to the battery. It is required to get the lift pump circuit from the ECM to turn on the relay and power the pump. Are you seeing your Wait To Start at key on?

Why not use a ISSPro EV2 gauge you program the gauge to trigger an option cooler fan. Then set the warning light for danger limit. All of ISSPro EV2 gauges have this function. Like you can set a boost gauge to trigger a methanol spray kit to turn on at a set boost pressure. Lots of options.

No Wait To Start no ECM. Check fuses. That is the first instruction is to light the Wait To Start.

I got the same email... I've got to pos up the Quadzilla in the store the next chance I get...

Biggest thing I've seen about flatbeds and filler necks is make sure the vent hose has a downhill run fully to the tank from the neck. Make sure that no fuel can puddle in a sag of the hose. Then do the filler hose the same way. Thor is a flatbed too but no issues with filling even with a high volume diesel pump found at most truck stops.

That I called into Quadzilla and sent my phone model and software version. Hopefully there will be an update.

I've got a similar breaker rated for 150A. Just different name.

Got a lot done. Moved the Starlink to the north side of my house. I'm not happy I had to drill nearly a 1.75-inch hole through the wall to get the starting to plug through the wall. Then place the satellite dish on top of my fireplace chimney for now. Way better signal way fewer obstructed errors from Starlink. Then now Starlink is hooked into the network on the property. All computers and devices now are on Starlink. By Monday ill be calling Ziply fiber to come get their router box and pull both the internet and phone line.

Now Im building my network here at home. Now I know a lot of you have the internet at home and use WiFi for your cellphones and laptops. Did you know that like me I've got like 4 different WiFi radios going now? It's a pain in the tail going from area to area and having to switch from one WiFi radio to another. Starlink, Ziply, Netgear (bedroom), Netgear (shop). Then the yard is weak for a signal so if I'm working outside I may or may not get phone calls or texts. The TP-Link managed switch allows for multiple WiFi Radios to be installed and create a mesh network so you can roam from place to place and seamlessly switch radios without breaking phone calls. What is amazing is the equipment is cheaper. Check this out... Indoor WiFi Access Point (PoE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0781YXFBT/?th=1 Outdoor WiFi Access Point (PoE) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07953S2FD/?th=1 Outdoor Camera (PoE) https://www.amazon.com/Amcrest-5-Megapixel-NightVision-Weatherproof-IP5M-T1179EW-28MM/dp/B083G9KT4C/?th=1 Note: PoE stands for Power On Ethernet. In other words, my Managed switch supplies the power and data completely on the Ethernet cable. Making installing easy and not having to mount near an outlet for a power source for the device. My 28 port switch has 250 watts of power for PoE devices. Why all the work? Well after this is completed I'll have PoE cameras hooked up to monitor the property and buildings. Then seamless WiFi is cast over the property that is firewall secured. The public will have their own WiFi signal that bandwidth restricted and firewall away from my personal data and cameras. Then while I'm say working in the shop I'll be able to say print a document in the shop and just walk up to the main house to get said document. With my old setup, the possibility of hackers coming in on the internet side and attempting to gain access to my PCs is possible, and need to protect my main PC which is the controller for Mopar1973Man.Com. The best part of all this it all works seamlessly on a Linux OS I'm using Ubuntu 22.04 LTS for my software. Then even if I'm traveling about doing a job I can still check cameras at home, access my home network, etc. Completely secure.

The only time I've manage to trip my breaker is when the temperatures are low and grid Hester's run longer, and even have the Quadzilla high idle running. But no biggy pop the hood and reset the breaker. Possibly the high idle is the cause of the breaker trip being high idle at 1,200 RPM will decrease IAT temperature making the grid heater to run longer, then the alternator goes wide open and manages to heat the breaker just enough to trip. Solution... Disconnect the grid heater power lead from the driver side battery. Problem Solved.