Mopar1973Man

Personally, I love my Morimoto D2S HID headlights the best which I installed in Beast. A very wide path of light and also a very tall path of light on high beam. Lo Beam is cut just right not to blind oncoming traffic. As for economy-based lighting, I got clear lens headlights for Minnie. Then installed a set of LED bulbs into Minnie. These are good but pattern of light isn't as good as the HID's as Beast has but OK for night travel. I would suggest not to opt for halogen bulbs just not enough light in a stock housing or after-market housing even a clear lens. I've even tried the sport headlights with the relay mod and they suck badly. Light is not where it needs to be. Small hot spots on the road by no width of light to cover the road properly.

Well I'm back to wrenching. This rig was my room mate in the basement. Needed some knock sensors, oil change, fuel filter and oxygen sensors. Knock sensors aren't to bad to do. Basically pull the intake manifold. You need to both fuel rails off but the injector plugs are released on bottom towards the manifold, weird but ok. The knock sensors are under the two large rubber plugs with one wire to each. The front knock sensor came out easy and the rear the hex head kept collapsing. Using my angle drill I drilled 2 holes in the top of the sensor stuck my needle nose pipers in the holes using a long screwdriver barred that sensor right out. Then changing the oxygen sensors was some what a pain in the rear.. Plugs buried on top of the transmission. Got them done. I had to pull the front shaft from the front axle just to get enough room to reach the front sensor plug. The rear sensor I had to use a hammer to shock the sensor loose with all the mud down there. Fuel filter was another pain in the rear. The the filter was held in place by two bolts but with all the brakes lines from the ABS computer in the way. The plastic holder was bound up on the fuel so bad by the time we beat the old filter out it broke the plastic. Got it out and boy that filter was plugged up. Lots of black junk came when you blew on the filter backwards. Yuk. No codes now and runs much better.

Well I'm back to wrenching. This rig was my room mate in the basement. Needed some knock sensors, oil change, fuel filter and oxygen sensors. Knock sensors aren't to bad to do. Basically pull the intake manifold. You need to both fuel rails off but the injector plugs are released on bottom towards the manifold, weird but ok. The knock sensors are under the two large rubber plugs with one wire to each. The front knock sensor came out easy and the rear the hex head kept collapsing. Using my angle drill I drilled 2 holes in the top of the sensor stuck my needle nose pipers in the holes using a long screwdriver barred that sensor right out. Then changing the oxygen sensors was some what a pain in the ***. Plugs buried on top of the transmission. Got them done. Fuel filter was another pain in the rear. The the filter was held in place by two bolts but with all the brakes lines from the ABS computer in the way. Got it out and boy that filter was plugged up. No codes now and runs much better.

So. Pull the Quadzilla lose and test that red/white wire for short to ground. Then I would test the power leads for both ECM and PCM. Again you need to unplug the ECM and PCM to verify. While your doing all this look for mouse damage or rub damage to the power leads for all 3 devices.

Quadzilla is way different being first off Quadzilla allows for custom timing for the engine. Power levels... 0 Stock 1 Valet Mode 2 Stock Fuel 3 CANBus Fuel Only 4 - 11 is amount of wiretap each level is 10%

Just a couple days ago we had a 100°F day my fuel temp floats 120°F only the engine returns to OE basket, AirDog 165 GPH draw straw outside the basket. The AirDog returns to the filler neck. Fairly steady at 17 PSI. Trip was 40 miles round trip to New Meadows and back home. Also fuel temp and IAT typically match. Climb to New Meadows roughly 1,000 foot climb. Quadzilla set on CanBus only (Lvl 3) no wiretap. Weird on is at 66 MPH, 2000 RPM, 550°F EGTs, 2-3 PSI of boost, but dropping 24 degrees advance at the speed pushing 22 to 25 MPG.

Time ran out on the mini track hoe. It went back to Tates Rental Saturday in Boise. I've got to say Thank You to James which is @Honey Badger oldest son that got me the whole week for a day rate. The other dig work we did was add a RV pad in the back yard. Now with water and power. Sewer I've got to cheat do above ground but not biggy. I have a solution. As for my network I'm building I got my first camera wired up and took a bit to configure Linux to see the camera. I had the camera inside looking out at the drive way. Also you can see I had the view on my phone but my PCcan record if motion is detected. Now if the rain would stop I would get both mounted and wired. I'm adding outdoor WiFi antenna which will go 700 foot radius. I'm loving the fact there is only one SSID (network name) and can wander between building without dropping calls. As for the Starlink still working good till last night's rain it was coming down 8.xx inches per hour very heavy with lots of lightning which we lost internet and phone for most of the night. As of this morning I've got signal again.

Sorry level one is Valet mode. Valet mode locks to the setting on the setting page and doesn't provide any additional fuel. I'm not sure you get any timing while on level 1. You should be on Level 2 which is stock fuel with timing. Level 2 caps out the fuel table to just 100% so no additional fuel above 100% will be given.

Yeah, Tomorrow I'm going to be getting back to web work and shop work again.

All the way in with the shaft and the bolt must line up with the rounded groove.

Hang in there you'll get there... I know the feeling I'm trying to get all the dig work done here with limited time on my rental of the mini-track hoe I've got and I've got 2 days left. Ugh!

Yeah I'm in Idaho again. When we were picked up from the Airport we went to pick up a track hoe and hauled it home. We already tore down my cinder block wall and rebuiltit with rock. That project is done. Now I'm building a RV spot out back with full hook ups. This is still in progress. I finally got my WiFi heads for both house and got them temporarily hooked up. Really nice to be on a call and not drop walking between buildings. I've got to hook up my two cameras for the property. Still have setup the software yet too. Funny part i dont have to be home and can check my network and Starlink from anywhere with my cellphone. I'm really happy with my 28 port managed switch. I can see everyone who is using the internet or network. Then I can control bandwidth to devices as needed. Then we are still in progress of new flooring throughout the upper level. The two bedrooms and bathroom are done. Still got to finish the living room. Just add more I've got to replace my cook stove being its a 2 burner with grill. I'm having issues with the large burner the ceramic plug broke and barely holding together. I'll be ordering a new stove here soon. Yeah I've even got software to upgrade here on the website both the forum and the store. Even got tunes to build for members yet. Then ive got locals asking for A/C work which I need to get done but my local supplier is out and should have more by tomorrow. Yeah I've been busy but I'm home.

No you can't. The PSG must be calibrated to the pump. Swap the entire unit. This is why the price is that high it takes 3 hour of the test stand to calibrate one VP44.

Yeah you should remove all lines which is fairly quick. Then the plate is a snap. Lines are in groups of 3 so you don't have to remove the isolator blocks.

I've heard of guys just upgrading to the late 2nd Gens to get the non electronic seats which is easier. It was only 98.5 and 99 that had issues with this module and lock solenoids on the seat belts.

That is awesome. I'm jealous.

NO THREAD SEALANT. Must have a clean ground for accurate temperature. Brass fittings and sensors are typically self sealing and don't require sealants or tape. I used mine for engine oil temperature.

I had to go back and look at the photos at the beginning of the post. At least you got a complete door for the passenger side. Paint can be done later. I was wondering about the roof damage and how bad it is. Being it right near the rear door upper latch. You might want to call a body shop and see if they can provide a measurement chart of the door opening so you can properly realign the body to fit the doors properly. If you can get the headliner out and the door trims removed can you post photos I'm curious about the damage?

Well I'm running out of time here. Tomorrow it's recharge day and packing up. Friday heading home. Being ive got so much to catch up on I'm going to work my weekend to play catch up.

I agree that I eould rather keep the electronic timing versus having a static timing of a p-pump. I don't see these trucks going away any time soon. I will admit that I've done some research on software deletes on CR truck 5.9 and 6.7L yeah you can buy tuners but delete tunes are going underground. As for us less headaches and no emissions junk.

If you grab the FSM from the download section it will list the ground locations. Also don't over board with grinding paint off everything. A rusty surface can be worse than a painted surface.

Yeah sad but true. Seems like nothing moves without me. Between all I'm doing at home building a network and then split on a vacations I noticed things slowed down. I have to say that I needed a break and now it getting time to get back on track. I've got plenty piling up. I just did two phone calls to the east coast helping members out with tech info and spent about 2 hours on the phone dealing with missed calls just today. Friday I will be heading back for home and have to hit the deck running WOT.

Exactly. @Great work! is right on the money. All the computers or electronics have limp modes to keep you rolling to get home. So sadly your going to need to replace that VP44 soon.