Mopar1973Man

You guys gotta see this. https://www.theverge.com/2018/1/12/16880978/gm-autonomous-car-2019-detroit-auto-show-2018

I really don't like any of the DDRP solutions. Simply the pump is not designed to be on the block it needs to be moved back near the fuel tank and all the fuel lines including the pickup assembly needs to be upgraded to 1/2" plumbing. Where the stock lines are 6mm ID and are too small from the get-go. Comparing 1/2" fitting to 6mm stock fuel line...

I'm looking at it from another angle of attempting to find a solution to the issue instant of limiting parts or pushing towards expensive solutions. I can provide that the diode failure is caused by excessive high amp draw on the system at idle. Like the majority of diode failure is caused by people in the cold country firing up and leaving the truck idle to warm up. This places large load again the alternator and the diodes get overheated from attempting to hold the grid heater at an idle. I'm doing some testing right now to see about resolving this issue.

Can't be done. Once the APPS sensor is return to idle the Quadzilla drops out and ECM takes over.

Yes, there is a 120 amp fuse in the PDC for the alternator.

I know what you mean being the amount of money I dropped in lighting for the front of the Cummins. I've got a total of $1,000 dollar in lighting sounds expensive but well worth as well. So I really do understand what you are saying in money well spent.

Typically I would dip the copper ends in flux and heat them a little bit to get the flux to flow into the strains of copper. The brush some flux into the copper lug and heat. Then start adding the solder to the lug and dip the cable into the lug and heat for a few seconds longer on the lug this should get the solder to start wicking up the cable.

Pretty sure. I found a few valves on the tight side dead cold. I admit I did the lash beforehand but in a rush so I grab a torque wrench and just set my torque on the jamb nuts and threw the cover on which in turn made a few tight in the lash setting. Last time I double checked my gap after torquing. 330k miles and never leaked.

Wow! Expensive electrical upgrade. Little over $800 for all your upgrade.

Being with all the miles I'm doing I'm going to redo the valve lash my truck soon. Trying to scrape up every bit of efficiency I can get out of my truck. Even change the BHAF today in hopes of just a wee bit less restriction of airflow. Then finding the loose ground on my Quadzilla and the weird issues it created.

Wow! What a PITA! The salt has really taken a toll on the old truck. Now the adjustment nut is a 13mm nut and typically able to loosen with 13mm and vise grips holding the stud at the curl. Not this time nearly seized up tight with rust. Without damaging the stud I shot it with PB blaster and started working the nut back and forth slowly and reapply PB blaster. Then went and grabbed an 8mm x 1.25 die and ran the die right up against the nut to clean the threads of rust. Then tighten the nut just a wee-bit more and chased right up to again. Then back the die off and the nut came off with my fingers. Ok. So the two clips that are provided in the kit the one that looks like the factory clip is too small for the lead beads won't fit but the U shaped one works fine. Reset my pedal to the fully up position and reassembled the cable as typical. The fun part is with the threads clean it was easy to adjust the nut just by finger practically. I added another turn by the wrench to take up a bit more slack but I've got a working parking brake again. Now the new clip to replace the broken stock one.

I ordered a BHAF from DAP and it came on Thursday. Been busy running back and forth all week. I've always been basing the filter change on the filter minder that I typically always just drilled a hole and stuffed the grommet in and the filter minder. I'm going to walk away from that method and start moving over to yearly changes of the air filter. I can't say right now if there any impact in MPG numbers or not but you sure can hear the turbo whine now compared to with the old filter. I'll keep you all posted.

Today I pulled the entire loom out and checked all the connectors and added dielectric grease to some of the plugs that are getting hit with salt from the highway. Double checked my ground again and both power points the +12V BATT connection at the PDC stud and the +12V IGN in the fuse tap in the cab. After doing all this things changes for the better the gauges are much more stable and EGT are nearly matching with up to only +50*F offset between the ISSPro and the Quadzilla at its worst span. Double checked all connections and took it for a test drive into town seems smooth compared to last night with the up and down timing all over the map and boost reading bouncing 1 to 14 PSI.

Exactly... That's the ticket.

Ok. That short of time you might be fine. If it tested good then you should be fine.

I would remove the wire tap as well. If the Edge has an internal issue and shorting out the solenoid line it could present problems too. Just best to fully remove all connections then you can rule it out completely.

I'm going to bet the other battery is weaken too. Batteries should be swapped as pairs.

Nice. The only thing I would do is find a high amp fuse holder and install a 180 Amp fuse or whatever the Alternator is rated for. This way the alternator is protected if a diode happens to short out then the fuse will blow and not start an engine fire.

There are the two codes you provided. But this doesn't tell us if the pump is creating enough pressure to keep it running under load. You could have 1 PSI of pressure and make a mess but that wouldn't be enough to keep the VP44 happy under load. Still, need to verify that after you do get it running by rehooking up the Edge and seeing your fuel pressure. You might check fuses too might of cracked or blown a fuse somewhere preventing things from running. Check then with a test light or an ohm meter. Once the Edge Juice is disconnected I would attempt to prime and start the engine again by cracking 1,3,4 injector lines and see if it starts up.

At least with my Android LG G5 cellphone I've found that the iQuad App has to open before clicking on the tune you want to import from the Download App. Then it works just fine. If the iQuad App is not running I get the same results of error or nothing happens.

First off we need some back diagnostics. Is there any error codes present using a standard OBDII code reader? Lot of error codes will not trip the CEL. There are error codes that will possibly prevent the truck from starting so this why I'm asking about error codes. Second off I would remove the Edge completely to aid in diagnostics of the truck to ensure the Edge is not to blame in the starting problem. Need to get back to the stock truck just to be sure. Do you have good fuel pressure from the lift pump? I know the gauges on the Edge will be gone if its all unplugged. You going to need a mechanical gauge for testing purpose.

Personally, I say solder is the best method being the cable is in sense welded to the entire face of the lug. Where crimping is based on contact by pressure. If soldered properly the cable will be sealed to moisture and battery acid where crimping the cable can oxidize from battery acid contact or simply water. @JAG1 For a construction guy, it's like sweating together to copper fittings they never leak, do they? As long as it was done right.

Keep an eye on the oil level. See if it continues to grow and if the oil pressure drops on you.

Here is the fuel pressure article.

What happened? Are you ok? I'm curious of the project and what you've done.