Mopar1973Man

That what I was going to ask you why have I found 3 people with the seal hanging on the shaft and blown out of the pump with 30 PSI? Then diesel fuel just dumping in the gear case?

First off you running 37" tires. What is your gear ratio? Hopefully 4.10 or higher.

Might be differences in ECM programming from 1999 to 2002 like on my truck if I disconnect the grid heater line it does trip the CEL.

1989 to 2002 Dodge Cummins engines will do over 1 MILLION miles without a thought. Its the Common Rail 2003 and up that have a hard time getting past 100k to 300k without eating a piston from failed injectors.

So have I on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 I've got to replace the rear drum on the next brake service.

This is one of the reasons I tell people to just write down the number and come back the OBDII database here and look up the codes. OBDII 100-999 should be generic but some of the Cummins stuff doesn't fit exactly right. OBDII 1000 and up is supposed to make and model specific and most of the hand held OBDII readers report weird stuff on these 1000 and higher numbers.

Exactly. As long as the APPS is at idle position then the ECM is direct control of idle speed. APPS sensor is not the cause. We do need the error codes use OBDII code reader most 2001 will only report PCM codes and then stop on the key trick.

The only thing over there is the blower for the HVAC system. I would drop the blower and inspect the blower. Lot of times objects and debris fall in and roll around into the blower.

Sure is. Man, I love it when I just pull my cellphone out of my pocket and set my timing. On a VE pump you have to buy the special dial gauge that screws into the center of the pump. This measures the plunger lift and timing. Not a cheap tool. Way easier to just grab my cellphone and Quadzilla iQuad app and set the timing to what I want. If you take look over at 3rd Gen at the Smarty UDC tunning you see what Smarty touch can do for the VP44 trucks.

ECM is fried first off. I would test for AC noise from the alternator. Then clear this code and see if it comes back. If it does the other codes are most likely from the AC noise of the alternator killed the ECM.

You might try to track down @Cowboy he's a 12 valve guru of sort and last I remember he did a port job on his 12 valve head. So he would know about the head gasket job.

Ok. Then please explain how the front seal pops out of a VP44? I've seen 3 reported after having high fuel pressure.

Are you running the current flash on the Quadzilla? Is your iQuad app up to date?

Take the risk of blowing the front seal out of the VP44. Excessive pressure above 12 PSI during starting could create hard starting.

P0191 error code has to do with Rail Pressure sensor. I would verify all the wiring and connections. Then you might consider replacing the rail pressure sensor. You could test the rail pressure sensor by hooking up a live data tool and checking the rail pressure signal.

I gathered you replaced the gear? Which gear was it? Sound like someone didn't torque the bolts properly.

Yeah I know sick they price hike they put on those little valves WH6820 they use to be $8 bucks and cheap...

I would talk to @Dynamic he's the site transmission guru. From what I know the 1st, 2nd and 3rd gears are all hydraulicly controlled. The only thing I can think of is governor pressure sensor or governor pressure solenoid is goofy. But that is random guess with my limited knowledge. @Dynamic would know the answer.

So what issues remain?

Still very marginally understanding on the timing reduct setting. That's one of the settings I've not got my head wrapped around good.

Hmmm... I might try that on my performance tune I'm playing with. A matter of fact my Stealth Plate is on its way and be here on Thursday...

Between working with the 1,500 RPM timing band, max load timing offset, and low psi timing reduct these 3 setting can get rid of most of the bucking. Max load timing offset - 3* Low psi timing reduct - 2* 1500 RPM - 14.5* That's what I'm running. Very rare to see bucking. The thing is you need to get a fair amount of retarding at low RPM's to able to pull in a lugging state.

Like @Me78569 will say that most of the MPG is based on timing. Lower Engine Load = Better MPG Lower EGT's = Better MPG So don't get tunnel vision and listen to more timing is better. Make sure you measure your engine load in the same place on flat ground travel and change your timing in small amounts. If the engine load is rises then your going the wrong way. If the engine load is going down you going the right direction. Keep going till you find a light rise then back off.

I look at it this way there is no reason to go messing with $250 dollar unit bearings attempting to make them better. My bearings lasted 150k miles each time. So if you look at this way you can go around the earth 6 times before they fail. 24,901 miles around the earth (six times around is 149,406 miles). It's not like they failing to quickly. It's the people with oversize tires and strange offset wheels that create issues with bearing life because of how the weight and wheel offset torques on the bearings. Now, these people whine all the time on how the front suspension is junk and nothing lasts. I wonder why...

The only place I get those at is the local NAPA store. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/WH_6820 No hardware store even sells these. The problem is the 1/8" NPT on either side. The local hardware store sell swap cooler valves which are 1/4" compression fittings on either side.