Mopar1973Man

What is the cranking pressure? Running pressures are fine.

I'll have to agree with the EGR system that is a very stupid system that never worked since the 70's. If you are feeding the engine CO2 mixed with the air you are decreasing the amount of oxygen that the fire can burn reducing power. Then turn around you are demanding more power to make up for the loss of power. Hence wasting fuel. I don't buy the acid rain thing that the EGR is supposed to prevent. That would be a good idea. Can you explain that...

The only thing about Ford's you have to remember is there is a need for a two post lift for lifting the body off. Even like the 7.3L I had a friend call me up to fix oil leaks on his 7.3L the only way to replace the rail plugs for the high pressure oil is you got to lift the cab off. There isn't enough room to remove the rear two plugs just to change the o-rings. The other problem is there is little room for the exhaust on the 7.3L Ford's so they crushed the pipe make it fit between the cab and the transmission. A lot of people have a shop beat a dent into the floor to install a true 4" downpipe. Remember there is no injection pump on a 7.3L Ford. There is the high pressure oil which is pumped into the injector on command which is used to pump the fuel up to pressure inside the injector. Oil change interval and high quality oil filters are a must. Then injectors on 7.3L are not like the Cummins they pretty expensive! They got their own problems.

Still I don't trust your calibrated torque hammer it doesn't say "Snap-On". Most likely a Harbor Freight and the Calibration is very good.

I suggest you stay with the stock HO pump.

Kind of like myself going from Edge Comp to a Quadzilla it day and night difference in tuning. Technology has come a long ways for our truck since the release of the Banks Tuner. You might step over to the Quadzilla forum and take a peek. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/174-quadzilla-power/

Even the Hotrod VP44 is only 21 HP over a stock SO pump. The only thing that makes a Hotrod pump what it is... When they are built they use a mixture of both HO and SO pumps. Gives it a slightly more advanced timing and more volume of fuel. Gain between HO and SO in stock form is only 10 HP. Not like we are talking about a whole bunch...

The best I can suggest is the ECM rebuilder article we've got here.

Hmmm... I had a long discussion with a friend about the 4th gen truck and their issues. Like I told him if people of our caliber were to dive in and figure the engine out we might be able to keep from deleting them completely. Kind of like the early years of catalytic converters on the 1980's cars that people chopped off. Now they are just part of the car. So eventually I'm hoping the same knowledge comes to the diesel realm for the 4th gens.

Flat bed trailer would be much easier to deal with than another truck. I'd say look into the gooseneck idea and just haul the hives on the trailer. This way you not into 6 tires for replacement. Now in the 3rd Gen's I would consider an single rear wheel 1 ton with a flatbed. Again that is a heck of a price tag for 3rd gen trucks.

I'm curious why you didn't get a Smarty?

Did someone delete their truck?

Yeah, @Me78569 is right the yellow turbo icon is the turbo timer. If there is a warning of boost then the bar at the bottom turns yellow.

Did you upgrade the main shaft too? IIRC the torque on the 5th gear nut is in the range of 500-600 foot pounds on the upgraded shaft. You might look it up and make sure it torqued properly. Way too many video out there of guys beating the nut back on with a hammer and chisel. For sure not the way to do this job.

Boost leaks as they add up they can wipe out a lot of good boost pressure to leaking boots, intake gasket, etc.

I'm going to run on the hunch that its a vacuum your fighting. So I would say the vent on the top of the sender is plugging up with mud or ice causing the problem. Typically a cracked head would produce a consistent failure in a short time not like your seeing where it comes and goes. Do you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge hooked up?

We've got a heck of a thread going attempting to resolve the whole alternator AC noise issue for good. The best I can tell you that the grid heater are the cause of the diodes failing as for solution for keeping the diodes from getting damaged is still not found yet. We are working for a long-term solution. I'm still of the opinion that the grid heaters as the age and the solenoids that control them tend to create more load than the alternator can handle so the diodes overheat and fail.

As I flip-flop between stock (level 0) and Level 3 of the Quadzilla I see roughly about 2-3 degree advancement over stock fully warmed up. This could be upside down if the fuel temperature and the IAT colder. Then I'm about 2-3 degrees retard from the colder temperatures on the fuel and IAT. Temperature plays a role in tuning yet and have to be aware of your conditions, weather, etc. In the extreme cold I've seen stock as high as 21* just cruising at 55 MPH. But the fuel was barely 45*F and the intake was 48*F. Being my overall engine load at 65 MPH is barely 18-20% it doesn't drop off like @Me78569 mentions. But you have to remember I'm a +75HP injector so it flowing more fuel for the stated engine load. I'm waiting for the summer fuel to kick back in.

@Dynamic This is a good one for you to answer. I've got a funny feeling though something is wrong with the torque converter.

@JAG1 Sometime in April we'll have to get together and handle the A/C... Unless @IBMobile wants to do it while your camping...

That is correct. The ECM is in direct control of the lift pump. If the WTS light is delaying then the ECM is NOT booted up and ready. So the lift pump will not fire. The ECM must boot up first for the lift pump or the VP44 to fire. If the WTS light doesn't come on the ECM will not start either the VP44 or the lift pump. That relay is the power relay to the VP44 again its controlled by the ECM on turning on the power to the VP44. As long as there is NOT a P0381 error code there is nothing wrong with that wire. So since you've never mentioned that error code I would assume the ECM is damaged most likely from excessive AC noise from the alternator.

Really don't like those setups. I installed a FASS 150 for local gent right here in New Meadows, ID on a 2000 Dodge Ram 2500. To this day that truck still has problems with gelling fuel and road debris hitting the FASS filters because its installed just like seen here. So after a few miles of snow cover highways the filter are buried in packed snow and ice.The other problem is that FASS are so big in physical size they are very difficult to hide on the truck away from a damage path or thrown snow and ice. Remember FASS and AirDog is a Son and Father setup. Where the son owns FASS and father owns AirDog. Same family different ideas.

Just remember the higher the volume of pump the better the pressure stability will be. In other words like most people figure to buy the smallest volume pump like 95 GPH pump but those people have more problems with wider swings of fuel pressure from cold fuel to hot fuel then with idle to WOT operation as well. Larger the plumbing and the larger the volume of pump will provide the best stability of pressure over all applications typically. I'm speaking of the Common Joe people not the racing and dyno queens those are way different setup.

Normally, I take a can of brake clean and washout the connector tube holes in the head to ensure there is no debris in the head to mess up the o-ring sealing. Then clean up my connector tubes with a wire brush to remove the crud that might have formed. Just remove the o-ring its easy...

Jacobs Brake is no longer produced.