Mopar1973Man

Like on mt 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 the vacuum motor got struck by something and tweaked the shaft causing it to hang up and stick randomly. Full replacement of the vacuum motor isn't hard but it would sure take care of any vacuum issues.

I would say call a transmission shop and see about getting the right bearing for the job. Personally, I never had an issue with 5th gear nut or the input shaft. I went all out and broke the mainshaft right at the 3rd / 4th syncro.

Little trick to bypass all the sensors, ECM and everything. Basically you want to supply power to the VP44 pump alone. It will start and idle only. https://www.bluechipdiesel.com/troubleshooting.html

Still hard to tell, but are the injection line spray any fuel where you crack them open and crank?

As for starting these engines you'll need to reprime the fuel system which is most likely got air in the system. So bleed the fuel lines to the VP44 and crack open 1,3,4 injection lines and crank till fuel sprays good or just about starts. Tighten then fire it up. As long as the grid heaters are disconnected you could give it a "very very small spray" of starting fluid to help it along.

The best I can provide is that all sensors should be present and hooked up. Here is power distribution...

I moved you over to the Cummins Swaps forum... Hopefully, some of our Cummins swap nuts will come forward.

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12424-front-axle-cad-vacuum-actuator-to-manual-posi-lock/ Just for the helpful hand... I post a standard link. @Dieselfuture post does have a link but not what you expect. That whole insert box is the link.

I think your right...

Here you go a full article for this problem.

Funny part I got some cheap ball joints off of Rock Auto and still running on them. (Invoice 4/2011) RAYBESTOS 5051288B (Economy) Service Grade RAYBESTOS 5001108B (Economy) Service Grade

I normally use a pair of vise grip needle nose pliers to clamp off the fuel lines to prevent a mess and losing prime.

Just a reminder Moog is no longer US made.

You need to contact @Dynamic he's our site transmission guru. It could be a torque converter issues something damage inside of it. There could be a short to ground on the lockup signal wire causing the random lockup issues. Get rid of all the tin foil. Also, check for added ground wires or modified wiring and return all wiring back to stock. Before Testing - IMPORTANT PLEASE DO NOT SKIP! Before doing any testing of the alternator for AC noise, make sure to remove any and all wiring modifications. Return the electrical system back to stock. Make sure there is no extra grounds, relocation of ground wires or noise filters installed before testing the alternator. It has been brought to my attention that wiring mods can and will provide false passing grades for the alternator. The entire electrical system should be left stock and unmodified so you (the owner) are alerted sooner to impending alternator failure. Stock system will show AC noise issues much sooner than modified system which will mask the issue and then typically cause damage to ECM, PCM or VP44 sooner. Funny part, is I just last another alternator last night. Very easy to detect with stock wiring and give plenty of early warning of it going south only if the wiring is completely stock. Mine has a very surgy / jerky cruise control because the tach signal is muddy up with AC noise. I did stop by a local shop in Ontario, OR and talked with the gent there that has 31 years of experience. Basically in a nutshell excessive high current loads will cause the diodes to over heat and then fail. In other would starting the truck and leaving to sit and warm up and idle against the grid heaters is really hard on the alternator.

I'll have to look on my truck I don't think I've got the same set up being I'm fly by wire cruise control and the only thing vacuum runs is the HVAC. No vacuum cruise, No vacuum CAD unit (4WD). Might of changed up.

Might be helpful if you fill in your signature so others can tell what year and make of truck you got.

CAD Vacuum is disconnected or the vacuum motor is damaged.

There are no check valves in the system. There are only 3 vacuum motors which you will most likely end up pulling the entire HVAC case to even service them. Control panel typically never fails. Vacuum line issues under the hood are common though.

Well... Ummmm... Errr... Just zip tied to the handle holes of the batteries... That another job I've got to do yet.

Can even test it hot because the lash will be tighter hot than cold. Everything expands hence this why you set a lash to the valves so when things get hot the valves don't hang open.

Might have to pull the HVAC case and clean it out. I've seen some system where the foam peels off and binds up the doors and causes issues. Not to mention on my 1996 Dodge Ram had a BB in the vacuum motor and created a vaccum leak so the door randomly would flop open till the BB covered the hole again. PO spilled a box of BB across the dash and you guess it one found that vacuum motor. I've seen evaporators so packed with dirt and debris that the heat worked poorly. The only thing I can suggest is full removal of the HVAC box and split it open and clean and lube everything.

You are correct on the lash measurements. I'm up by 7am and I won't get home again now till 11pm tonight. 13 hours of driving every other day. (Tuesday, Thursday, Saturday). Closing in on a year of doing this.

I know the feeling too. Oh boy do I....

No. Absolutely not! Best if overnight cold is best. 140*F or less is OK.

Quadzilla I would... Edge Comp never had any issue. Might ask @Me78569 about that.