Mopar1973Man

Not a problem...

I've watched this process done but never had to do it. @MoparMom was being nice for me years ago and paid for my front axle unit bearing replacement done by my tire shop guys. Needless to say, the bearings got done but when I check the truck over the front axle seal where leaking after the bearing change. The tire shop warranty there work and sent me to another shop to have the front axles seal replaced. The shop owner was nice enough to let me watch him work. Of course, this shop had all the nice seal tools to knock them out and install them without damage.

I'm so happy I've got the old "Check Ball and Spring" set up. Way too many issues with the adjustable regulator setups.

Here you go... Right from the article database.

Actually, if they went out and stayed out I would say its an electrical short because it would have blown the fuse because something indeed touched ground and shorted out. Now isn you case it when off during a hard braking event and the return tells me there is a OPEN circuit or loose connection without a complete power loss. So this would end up on the ground side most likely being a open circuit could break and connect without blowning a fuse. Being is cab related I would say driver side kick panel ground or center of the dash ground. But I'm betting on driverside kick panel ground being that is common for rust and corrosion issues.

You all might want to start using the Members Map function and placing pins at least your city and state then you can create get-togethers.

Not really, unless visible damage is seen at either mating end. I do suggest new o-rings for them though.

Like myself I'm upside down. Obdlink thinks I'm consuming more than actual.

My system is similar but key feature is that power transfer happens at about 10 to 20ms from City to inverter. Also can run all key features of the house but using only 120VAC power and step up transformer. I might add the auto start to my generator allowing the inverter to stop and start the generator as needed.

I'll never hang lights on the rear bumper. I've crush 3 sets off lights on the bumper. That's why mine hang on the rear diff. https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods&page=3

Not in Idaho... Last time I stopped at salvage yard people were buying entire trucks before they hit the dirt. I highly suggest calling first and checking.

Living room is above the garage. Wood stove just inside the man door of the basement. So your always getting wood for the stove out of garage leaving to door open and allow some heat out there.

My problem is I keep my truck in a unheated garage and typically in the 40 degree range. Plugging in isn't need nor is grid heaters. Now no matter where I go no like right now I'm at Weiser, ID get breakfast and it's barely 13F outside. No where to plugin if I wanted. I'll get to my buddy place in Parma, ID and park the truck for 4 hours. I'm not going to string out a cord and us my friends power. Not fair or right.

Actually I moved back to a linear step. Set you start and then step up plus amount. As for the exponential set you start point then percentage gain. Now step up one at a time it will calculate for each boost pressure position.

I'll take the blame. The whole idea of bridging the site store with another vendor was totally experimental and I was expecting weird issues. Like in your case the Quadzilla software was specified. I'm working with unknown territory so... I'm sorry it didn't work for you. Not to mention now that I tried to run VirtualBox on the laptop to fire up Windows 7 on it. It failed to start because the AMD-v is disabled by the BIOS and there is no way to enable it. So I wouldn't of been able to fix that problem with reflashing. Now if you already have a Windows computer you could of downloaded the flash here. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/14-quadzilla-adrenaline-v2-flash-files/ Then picked up a Mini USB cable for less than $5 bucks off Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-Controller-Players-Digital-Receiver/dp/B00P0GI68M/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1514304541&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=usb+mini+cable&psc=1 Then @Me78569 has the full write up on how to flash your Quadzilla. This is now my 3rd Winter on the Quadzilla and now that I'm finally getting it all figured out it way better than the Edge Comp was. Better fuel control and now understanding how to do timing I can get back to my high marks this coming summer. Another 250 mile round trip for @MoparMom dialysis in Ontario, OR. I should have fun today... Quadzilla still set for level 3.

Right out of the dodge FSM... To prevent engine from starting, remove fuel system relay (fuel injection pump relay). Relay is located in Power Distribution Center (PDC). Refer to label under PDC cover for relay location. Using key, crank engine over while observing gauge. Pressure should be 5–7 psi. Re-install fuel system relay to PDC. Start engine and record fuel pressure. Pressure should be a minimum of 69 kPa (10 psi) at idle speed. We all know that 10 PSI isn't enough at idle. I know the cranking pressure spec listed is actually a minimum of 7 PSI.

This is the only thing I could find for grid heater times.

After seeing that video I can for sure tell you that NAPA thermostats are NOT a fail-safe design that lock open.

During... Here is a video showing the pulse on / off.. You will see the needle pulse with the on/off. Then when I let off the key the needle snaps to full 15 PSI which is full power.

Exactly. 50/50 on and off. It's still 12 volt signal just turned off briefly.

Good ol' Chevy trucks... You still have to love that old design.

There isn't very much I would buy off of EBay... I've seen way too many people cheated there.

No, there is just a modulated 50% duty cycle during cranking to reduce the lift pump pressure to prevent over advancement. Minimum cranking pressure is 7 PSI. Maximum cranking pressure is maybe 14-15 PSI. I know 12 PSI is safe. Wasn't sure what cranking speed was... but thanks... Might be interesting...

I got a white Christmas... As for the power side of things, I'm still slowly converting over to LED lighting. I just changed over the guest house porch light to LED 120w (24w LED) flood lights. Turned up the gain on the motion sensor and aimed the lights out more and increased the time on from 1 minute to 10 minutes being the power is fractional compared to the two 120w bulbs previously.

Guessing? How fast would you say maybe 100-150 RPM cranking speed? Then you are attempting to compress cold air heated by the grid heaters. Then fire a shot of diesel fuel at 340-360 bar which will come later (how much later? unknown.) I know cold start wise the ECM wants to crank up timing but the modulated lift pump pressure keeps that from happening. Now that brings up a question? What is all your cranking fuel pressures? Might be pushing the timing up too much? Educated guess or trying to think outside the box.