Mopar1973Man

I would bench test the alternator first thing to see if it passes. Then Check the blue wire in reference to GROUND. Then check the green wire in reference to POSITIVE 12V. Ohms value will be meaningless being your measure a variable resistance.

Thre is only the blue and green wire on the back. The blue wire is a constant +12V source when the key is turned on. The PCM varies the ground on the green wire. So if the voltage is getting low the green wire gets more ground. If its getting over charged then the green wire gets less ground.

Here is a recent power usage capture by Idaho Power. We are burning firewood and also using the heat pump as well. I leave the heat pump set for 72*F on the upstair floors. The basement unit is turned off. @MoparMom is a bit thin skinned so she needs the heat kept up a bit more. As you'll see I can still keep nearly within my 4k limit of my inverter for the entire house. Not bad... Most of the appliances have been upgraded to energy efficient, nearly all lighting in the house is CFL or LED now. Water saver faucets and shower heads reduce the amount of time to reheat the water heater also reduces the amount of power needed to pump water.

I've got to ask how big of a generator are you using? Then consider I run my entire house on 4kw @ 120 VAC. I use a step up transformer to make 220V for the well pump. I've got a 6.5kw gasoline generator. I can run the entire house except for the big items like dryer, oven, stove, and heat pump. My inverter will run my modified water heater (1,100w @ 120 VAC). Being I've got mostly CFL or LED lighting there is little to no load on the inverter. Middle of the day in normal city mode but using my small amount of solar power generated. I've got a total load of 6-7 amp AC at 120 VAC which is roughly 840 Watts. For my daytime consumption. I'll wait till night time and post again with my total power usage again.

@AH64ID 3rd Gen suspension is way different than 2nd Gen. Kind of an apple to orange problem. Here is stock 2nd gen 1500. Yes it would squat... Spring leaves are a bit thinner. Same 3 thick but 2500 appear just a bit thicker. The bottom leaf on the 1/2 ton is for sure thinner.

Too cold for the RV. I would only have power. Not to mention I've got to monitor the house back home to keep it from freezing. So I've got no choice to do the round trips.Again I'm not complaining about the lack of snow. I'm glad it nothing like last year. Ugh!

Hidden in the back corner. It's in the photo. Just put on your glasses and zoom in you'll see it.

I'm counting my blessing being I'm still doing the 250-mile round trip every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday for @MoparMom dialysis treatments in Ontario, OR. I'm not complaining one bit that there is a lack of snow. Like last night coming home, its was hit miss with rain and snow showers at 10pm at night. Get up this morning to a yard full of half melted snow and froze back up early this morning so it super slick to even walk on. PS: I love the wide angle view of my cellphone...

Man, I'm glad I've got my 4k Inverter and batteries. The only thing I can't power is oven, dryer, stove, and the heat pump system. After being 21 days without power during the 96-97 flood I'm ready for any type of failure nature can throw.

Basically the same as my Hx35/40 hybrid. 60/60/12 my exhaust housing is larger.

Mostly likely won't work. 1/2 ton springs will most likely be too soft and have a constant squat. I would do a 3/4 ton spring without overloads. I'll grab picture of 1/2 ton springs.

He's got to run a full lead from the marker light lead back through the door. The only thing I can think of is tapping in at the steering column. This would give both parking light and turn signal function. If it just marker light then you want to tap in at the trailer relay which is easy.

Curious what the measurements of a HE351 wheel wise?

App just constantly runs and device never shuts down.

Thanks for the kind comments... I suggest you break down tasks into different topics and we'll all help you achieve your destination... Just like the tag line.

Article database... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/51_engine/electrical/

Basically in a nutshell, if you had all your OEM hardware you most likely wouldn't need airbags.

As far as I know, there is no lighted function for our trucks for mirrors.

Missing a lot of hardware from the stock spring pack. There is a top cover plate missing, overload springs are missing, bottom thick / flat spring is missing. Then even looking at this photo the spring is deformed past the left hand clamp of the airbag.

Might go to his forum and post your comments there. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/151-vulcan-performance/

Make sure to spray a clear coat of lacquer. This will prevent the lens from yellowing again.

Talk to Eric at Vulcan Performance. he would know. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/

On a previous job, I used the same weather stripping tape just wrapped around the tubes to fill the void. Something that is wide but not overly thick.

Try Home Depot... Weather stripping foam. Go to NAPA and get 1/8" air brake line. It meets the requirements for that. Just use a small piece of rubber vacuum hose to piece together.

I just push the release tool in twist the two lines and give a light pull. The o ring might be dry and sticky.