Mopar1973Man

As requested...

Call your local tire shop and see what they can order.

Being you live in salt country, I don't suggest fender flare. Like most of the trucks around here with oversized tire and fender flare end up with fenders rotting out from the fender flares.

7.86 - 7.82 = 0.04 inches 1mm = 0.039 inches Yes, 235's are 1mm taller. For the 265/75 R16 vs 235/85 R16

I've got an article on it. Super simple and not long to do. Just need a impact gun and ball joint press slide the bearing cap right out quick!

Don't have a girlfriend or a wife so I'm safe...

Thanks Jacob for jumping in here...

Heck, if you got the +75HP SAC run them. Jump on a Quadzilla you'll be set. Talk to @dieselautopower I'm sure Jacob would be cool with doing some upgrade work for you later for a good price.

Little secret my Daily tune doesn't require the MPG mode. I built it into my tune on the quadzilla. Then the High idle switch I rarely use because the Quadzilla I can set the warm temp to 140*F so it ramps up to 1,200 for warm up but kicks out at 140*F saving more fuel. Where the high idle runs till 170*F. The only thing the Quadzilla can't do is 3 Cylinder high idle but that would be rare to need this winter. WARNING: Make sure you don't use both at the same time I've heard that it can vapor lock the pump and force you to crank injector lines if it happens. ECM and Quadzilla don't mix good together.

Yes Sir. So far my high mark was 21.04 MPG if I remember right. I'm waiting for low cetane fuel to return and high intake temperatures again. Cold fuel, cold air and high cetane really make it a battle for MPG's. 100-140 IAT Temp is optimal. Aids in the ignition of the fuel with warm air. 100-120*F Fuel temp is optimal. Ignites easier and early! 40-43 Cetane is optimal. More BTU's! As soon as IAT drops below 80*F the ECM will jump up another roughly 3* of timing advancement. Cold fuel takes more time to ignite hence why cold engine timing can be as high as 21-22* degrees rolling light load.

Correction 265/70 R17 that is a correct size. Exactly the same to the 265/75 R16

What a joke is Cooper STT's and Toyo M/T those are jokes. Extremely heavy, tire poor ice/snow traction. Then to top it off roughly a 2-3 MPG lost because of rotational mass is more and rolling resistance is high from the tread pattern. Top it really good is the price typically over $1,000 for tires nope not me... Never again...

Be glad you own a 24V 2nd Gen... Take a look at CR Engine Injectors. Your talking at least $3,000 for a new set of injectors typically.

Last set I broke over 60k miles on the Hankook ATm this batch in the photo above is nearly 30k miles now. I've got to get into town in the near future and have them rebalanced starting to see the edge feathering a bit. I'm guessing about 80k most likely if I continue to do this 3 day a week trips to Ontario, OR for 250 miles per trip. http://www.hankooktire.com/us/passenger-cars/hankook-dynapro-at-m-rf10.html

There you go. Stock 2nd Gen chrome steel wheels and 235's.

I'm just waiting on weather. Soon as I can use the 1996 Dodge for week I'll be pulling mine and sending to DAP for pop tuning.

I'll post new pictures of the new wheels and tires in the daylight still dark here...

Not common size. Like the shops I deal with will charge more because it special order tire and you eat the shipping on them.

Be careful custom sizes might increase prices fast. Another reason I hung to the 235's they are really common out here and really CHEAP compared to 17's yet. Like my set I'm running now of the Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 only cost me $580 bucks for all 4 tires. Like I said Economy, performance is excellent, I've got close 30k on these tires now and still going. Drag is very minimal. MPG I'm touching 21 MPG again. Another reason for the smaller tire... Walk out in the snow. You sink with every step. Now put on snow shoes and you can walk on top of the snow. So if you want good snow/ice traction you got to go narrower. Wide tires will float on top of the snow and ice and have less traction. Again I can out drive most fat tire Fords on the highway because of loss of traction on ice.

Depends on the wheels. Most people I've seen about 100 pounds per wheel depends on the wheels. Just go to a tire shop and pick up a racing slick and tell me how much is weighs? Racing slices even for wide rear tires are typically 20-30 pound max! It about cutting rotational mass and adding as much traction. Tire weight does matter. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html

265 / 75 R16 10.4331 Inches / 75% of 10.4331 = 7.82 inches R16 10.4" / 7.82" R16 (american measurement) 235 / 85 R16 9.25 / 85% of 9.25 = 7.86 inches R16 9.25" / 7.86" R16 So now you can see the first number is mm in width of tread face. The second number is the percent of the tread face in sidewall height. So now I broke it down to show metric tire sizes into American inches. Still in all the 265's weigh in at about 85 to 90 pounds where the 235's weigh in at 62 to 65 pounds. Way less rotational mass. Faster acceleration with lighter tires and wheels. More fun to beating fat tire Fords with my pizza cutters on Cummins. 1mm is equal to 0.039 inches. As you can see the 235's are 1mm taller.

Thanks. This knowledge came from the fact I lifted and put big tires on my old 1972 Dodge Powerwagon and end up destroying the front axle. I broke u-joints and tore up wheel bearing and busted 2 steering boxes. For what? Just to look cool. I end up running out of sources for parts to keep fixing the front axle and steering so I traded that train wreck for my 2002 Dodge and KNEW I would never make that mistake again. I didn't as you can see at nearly 333k miles and still got mostly OEM parts yet.

Unknown as of yet. I'm not sure what I'll get for the 315-320 bar range I'm wanting to try it. I'm just waiting for the weather to straighten out so I can down the Cummins for week or so and drive the old 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 back and forth for MoparMom's dialysis runs. I'm just not getting the consistent MPG number yet I bet the high pop will clear a bunch up for me including the light bit of smoke I'm getting yet.

No, absolutely not. Straight as an arrow and steering is still tight just like the day I bought the truck from the dealer Oct. 26, 2002. Ditched the stock 265's and lifted a whole 1mm with 235's. Yeah, 235's are 1mm taller than the 265's so they are 1 rev per mile different. They are only 1.1 inches narrower. Big bonus they are approximately 25 pounds per tire lighter way better on MPG's and less drag for the steering. Not to mention this is the stock one-ton size used. There is actually one size smaller the 225's used also on the one-ton trucks too. Your not the only one to say it... Don't worry about it. The truth is the bigger the tires the more wear and steering issues you will have. I'm proven without a doubt 235's will not create any wear or steering issues. I've only replaced 1 set of ball joints and 2 track bars now. Factory OEM tie rods, steering box and PS pump yet. Just can't kill it. Stock height and only 1mm of tire lift. If I want the truck leveled I just hitch up the trailer it sits dead leveled.