Mopar1973Man

He asking if you can reach 27 at 3K and 30* MAX timing. Not knowing the engine setup I'm not sure it would be a safe setup.

Tell them you want to see the damaged parts. Tell them you want to see the pan after its removed or dropped. It's your privilege to make these demands if they are not will to comply find another dealer. I had a special understanding with the service manager and could get peeks at the work being done.

The only reason I turned my back on warranty work was because the fact Dodge wanted to install the intank lift pump on my truck I told them NO! At that point I became my own warranty station. It was also the start of Mopar1973Man.Com back in 2004.

Dealer let the suck it up on warranty...

If I remembered right the old heater system had a pre-filter with the heater I'm going to guess the thick fuel piled up in the pre-filter causing restriction till the heater could warm the thick fuel up causing the leak.

Most likely going create a loss. (Negative torque) with that high of timing. Not being able to see your signature and what you've got for truck makes it hard to tell. I'm going to suggestyou see what @Me78569 has to say being he's the Quadzilla guru.

All speeds above 55 MPH rely on aerodynamics for good economy. Now if you just ditch your leveling kit so the truck would cut there the air better. Give you point of reference, I'm still completely stock suspension at 65 MPH I'm still below 25% engine load on flat ground.

Been on sale the last half of December. Just went off sale 2 days ago. Any tuner will foul the overhead trip computer. It's no longer even accurate or even close.Quadzilla can make the the overhead computer go both directions just in the way you shape the fuel map. Too much fuel cutting will go down, excessive smoke in the tune can make it go up. The only true number is hand math. Then biggest thing is getting a fuel map that is not overly low on the start and not going all the way 150%. @Me78569 is right you can run up to mere 120% it will do fine for a daily tune. So my latest tune is 90% to 120% fuel map. Then timing I RETARDED 1.5 degrees to compensate for cetane levels of the local fuels. Truth is Quadzilla when it takes over there is no need for the MPG fooler so I'm trying to tune strictly without the fooler. The only time I'm at a loss is warm up time.

I've got two... 2002 is maroon and the truck was in my price range. Bought it new on my birthday on October. 26, 2002 paid rough 32,000 for. 1996 Is red in color. Very pretty looking truck and was my first truck I bought. I was a Gasser fan liked the old 360 CID design.

It's possible you've got one that is short.

No issues here. Plenty of wire to travel driver side to passenger running along the top of the radiator zip tied to the battery cable.

Remember as cetane RISES the BTU's FALL! This is an ASTM testing label scale for cetane and BTUs. The Dark green is typical summer fuel where the light green is winterized fuel. These are not always exactly these number but it shows the relationship. Point of Reference: Gasoline is just below the 120k BTU mark... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Colder the air the steeper the timing curve. This can be harmful to MPG because the fact the ECM can measure temperature of everything but can't measure the cetane of the fuel so it could be slightly over timed. Hence this where my MPG fooler was created for. Then there is wind resistance difference. Colder the air is denser so you got to travel roughly 5-10 MPH slower to equal the same drag as summer time. Lube oils in the axles are going create some drag till warmed up. Being super cold like minus weather it might never really warm up much.

Hua?!

That's the whole problem you should have all your ground plumbing below the expected frost/freeze depth. 18" is way too shallow.

My septic is so deep I really doubt it will every freeze. The tanks are roughly 5 feet below the surface and then the drain field is 13 feet below.

1st day of the year 2018 and it don't even look like winter here at all. 26*F when I took the picture...

Compared to Dorkweed I'm having a heatwave at 21*F this morning. No snow on the ground and clear skis.

Sad to say I spend most of my New Years weekend sick. (not alcohol sick) I'm back at duty today feeling pretty good now. Just need to add coffee.

I've dealt with it on another truck stuck in a field the 4WD would'net engage. Just like a said just follow the lines. Sure enough right where the CAD line tee's out the vacuum tube was missing.

Never wasted my time... That what I'm here for is try to help others out. As for having the line come apart like that I've been known to be working on y truck move the line out of my way and end up forgetting to hook it back up.

Glad it was an easy fix...

Basically, there is only one line from the vacuum pump up to the cowl then it tee's off for the CAD unit then continues across to the passenger side for the HVAC controls. You'll see the vacuum line running in with the A/C tubing. You've now confirmed the leak for sure with HVAC controls stuck in DEF mode is sign of a vacuum failure. So I would leave the truck idling start at the vacuum pump and keep working away from the source of vacuum replacing anything you find damaged or rotten. The rubber tubing end are known to split too.

So basically you have to back track now and figure out where the vacuum is going. Start at the vacuum pump and work your way forward looking at all the tubing. I've been known to pull the tubing and bend it arch and see if the tubing breaks or splits open. Funny how a plastic tube will look fine arch it and it will either split open more or break.

Transfer case in gear. Transmission in Park or Neutral brake set. Engine only need to be idling.

Yes, the engine must be running for the vacuum pump to operate.