Mopar1973Man

Well for myself. My phone is multi-tool of my cab. I make and take phone calls all the time that I'm driving. I can send text by voice commands (Google App). Then I have limited radio signal out here so much easier to load the phone up with a 2-3 GB worth of music. Then I run both bluetooth channels with iQuad on one side on the OBDLink LX on the other channel. So when I get from home to Ontario my phone is a bit warm to the touch. It gets USED! So even if I got a dedicated device that would just piss me off. I just left that behind because I was using a tablet and phone both. Now I'm down to one device again and way less mess in the cab. So that is not a solution. I don't want to have to buy 3 phones just so I can have OBDLink LX on one phone, iQuad on a second phone and then my actual phone that handle the Mopar1973Man business from can you imagine 3 gooseneck and 3 phones in the cab. That's not a solution that another problem.

That pretty darn cool to see Stubby Bob back and how much carnage that poor truck has taken.

Some of you know I use my LG G5 cellphone for my iQuad app. Now if I got the iQuad app running and a phone call happens to come in while it running. The phone call continue like usual and the screen typically go blank because iQuad lost the foreground position. So after I finish the phone call and switch back to the iQuad app the screen in pure black. Nothing there. You have to shut down and restart several times to get iQuad fired back up. Rather annoying. Here is my cellphone info below.

Oversized tires tend to put higher stress loads on the steering box. I would call Ryan at BlueTop and ask him for a new end cap and a seal kit and just rebuild the box again. Kits are fairly cheap and easy to rebuild and make tight again. Even Ryan will warn that oversized tires do more damage to steering boxes than stock size do. To this day I'm at 329k miles I'm now got a very slow leak on my input shaft seal. Beyond that, the steering is still tight and steering box is doing fine. I'm also running stock 16x7 steel chrome wheels and 235/85 R16 tires.

After this bucket is gone I'm going to switch to Valvoline 50 SAE transmission fluid being cheaper in price and every NAPA store around me has it in stock. Valvoline is the same oil just their label.

It can flash a VIN only if the PCM is new... Been there done that when I lost the PCM on the 1996 Dodge. As for changing the VIN number no once its flashed it can't be change unless you replace the PCM which I thought he was doing... My Bad... Need more coffee.

Correction. My local dodge stealer claims they don't have the properly trained personnel so the cant do chit... Dodge DRBIII tool can do it but the person operating the tool has to be able to think outside the box. I've seen the same thing said about flashing high idle on these trucks. There is lot that can be programmed and reprogrammed but the operator has to be 5% smarter than the tool they are operating.

This was a very heated and debated topic which I'm will to bring back up and report. I'm at 68k miles on the fluid. I've ran for 2 or 3 winters now and have zero issues shifting. Fluid operated greatly in temperature to -35*F and zero issues. I just checked the fluid level and color and it still like it was poured in from the bucket. Clear amber color and discoloring yet. By early summer I'll have 100k miles on this fluid and will check again on the color I might push past the 100k mark if the color is still bright and clear. Now that I'm travelling 250 miles every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday hauling @MoparMom to Dialysis treatments in Ontario, OR I've had to drive in everything from subzero winter driving to scoring hot stuck in traffic. Eve3n toss in trailer hauling once in awhile when we decide to cheat and haul the RV down and camp out near the clinic so to cut down on the traveling. I can say without a doubt that Mobil 50 SAE transmission fluid is a SAFE fluid to use in an NV4500 transmission. It will not harm the syncros nor have any impact on the shift quality. I'll re-update this thread again when I cross the 100k mark. Currently I'm about to cross 329k miles on my next trip down. Figure 250 per day, 750 per week and 3,000 per month bare minimum mileage. This typically is higher because of other travels through out the days and weeks. Still I've not had a single issue with the transmission fluid or any poor shift qualities.

Yes, they both do. Just the Frantz no longer uses TP and have there own special filter media. Centrifuge oil filter are expensive from the get-go to purchase but actually do filter quite well. I've have the Frantz filter but no longer using it when I figured out the TP rolls are now too short and not sealing properly. So back in the day I use to buy a large 12 pack of Scott's toilet paper for $9 bucks now you can only buy 1 filter from Frantz for $9 bucks. With either filter system I'm not liking the fact of the oil being in a simple rubber hose and rupture of the hose could wipe out your entire engine. You would have to invest in some better hydraulic lines and fitting to ensure the protection the oil system and not use simple rubber hose which is risky. At one point I was looking for a spin on solution of a bypass filter but the micron rating just ain't good enough. Frant Filter are very messy to change, the filter must be hung up-side-down to keep the mess to a minimum. Then the TP rolls typically are too big so you have to pull off several revolutions of paper and size the roll up in the can to make a tight fit. The other problem is the can o-ring would start to fail after either the 2nd or 3rd filter change. Thes are not cheap either and only sold by Frantz. Like in the early year everyone used to scream about having a pre-lube pump to build oil pressure before start to prevent bearing wear. So now I look towards all the folks that have cleared the 1 million milestone. None of them had to use any added filtration and just good ol' Petroleum oils.

During the time your discharging the batteries and attempting to start the engine the chemical reaction inside the batteries that are producing power are also producing hydrogen gases. So if you happen to hook up to the negative post on the dead battery first and get an arc it possible for an explosion to occur.

No joke I've even tired. But the three resistors are near the logo on the circuit board. Very very small. But looking back... The first version... Very crude but the first functional high idle kit was actually 3 switches this shows the 4 switch for the MPG mode. Most people had issues with this style because you had to have a sense of logic to use the switch correctly. Then the Ed Grafton version. Had flaws with switch failures and wasn't repairable because of the method it was assembled. Ed soldered his resistors right to the switch itself which the weight of the cable caused the failure typically pulling the contacts out of the switch. Now the Version 2 series... Fixed many issues, switch failures, easily rebuildable and repairable. Harness is separate and makes it easier for installation. Added a lock out for 3 CYL mode so it couldn't be used on a warm engine. Simplest design yet plug N play and all the logic is taken care in the switch now.

Welcome to the family... I'm going to bet the injectors are worn out. Fairly typical sign you could pull the injectors and have them pop tested but most just replace the injectors if they have over 100k miles. What happens is the pop pressure gets to low and the injectors get pissy and the fuel will not ignite if the fuel is not atomized. So you get a miss. With a cold engine there is added throttle and timing as high as 20* BTDC but now a warm engine there is much less throttle and timing is a mere 12.86* BTDC so is more so up to the injectors to keep idle state but the spray is crappy so the miss happens.

Nice article... Good information! Moved to the article database!

Welcome to the family. We'll do what we can to help you resolve the issues. This is the important clue here. Check gages light means that either oil pressure, coolant temperature or battery voltage is a problem I'm going to bet alternator issues. ABS and Brake like and speedometer jumping that is going to be a speed sensor issue most likely the rear speed sensor is damaged.CEL light tells there is other issues involved but we are going to need you to scan for error codes using an OBDII scantool. ECM and VP44 require at least 8 volts to run. So I'm going to have to say your batteries are going to be damaged at this point being you ran till it died completely. Smoke I'm going to say was white smoke because typically white smoke has a nasty unburnt smell to vs black which is much milder. Still I would want error codes to verify there was other issues like P0216 code. I'm going to ask do you have gauges? (Boost, fuel pressure and Pyrometer?) The white smoke could of been the lift pump dropped out and the VP44 struggling to pull fuel on its own and the lack of power and smoke would be fitting to the behavior.

I'll suggest against the Optimas...

Typically I'm between 60-65 MPH. All the highways I travel is mostly 65 MPH there are a few stretches of 55 MPH. With the tune above my typically rolling flat ground engine load is about 20-22%. Not bad. Even at 65 I'm still barely below 25%. Like tonight I rolled my 130 miles home and a bit more than 1/16 of a tank. I'm very pleased. Heavy fog in a few valleys. Night time temperature floating around 25-30*F depending where I was at.

My tune is strictly level 3 tune or no wire tap. Your photos are what I'm running. Wiretap setting are just random junk being in not using wire tap. Beware....

Make sure you test the alternator for AC noise. Don't Forget....

Finally!!! Yeah! Broke 21.06 MPG. Finally got the tuning figured out. 297 miles and filled up with 14.096 gallons giving me 21.06 MPG. This is still with winterized #2 diesel and winter cold conditions ranging from zero to about 30*F. Current tune iQuad-Economy-2018-01-06-03.53.551250340273.json

You might try dropping the Light Throttle Limit to 25-30% so it drops out of cruise timing sooner. Then on the Low Boost timing I would go up to 3 or 4 degrees so it retards enough on heavier loads. If your hanging on high cruise timing to long transition to performance timing might be coming on too late. Just a crazy thought.

Some transmission codes don't trip the CEL light.

This should help... The APPS sensor wiring is there for ya...

Not that bad, at least you had good service in the middle of nowhere Idaho...

Ok, so you even tried timing as low as I'm running now. I would suggest looking into doing valve lash. It really can have a impact on performance of the engine. My current timing settings are 14, 17,20, 23, Max 25 Max Load Timing 1.5* Low PSI Reduct 4* Timing scaling 100% Light Throttle 2* Light throttle limit 25% Excessive advancement typically will get the bucking going in the low end of the RPM. But like I've learned even valve lash that is excessive tight or loose can do it too. It can get so bad that it will cause the engine to stall depending on the valve lash and Quadzilla settings.

That is on my to do list the breadcrumb list needs to be darken. It's outside the controls of the normal control panel but I can hard code in the values. Just takes time.