Mopar1973Man

Absolutely... Jeans and a tee shirt and go for it. You'll never sweat and it like good cool air conditioning.

Are you sure the VP44 is good and functional?

Correct. The little thumb screw just depress the valve for flow. The main collar nut is what makes the seal.

I've seen some strange cluster issues on 3rd Gen trucks where the coolant gauge was slow. So the ECM could be reporting a overheat issue but the gauge still shows slightly elevated temperatures. Tachomoters that report idle speed at 400 RPM's and buries at redline at little over 2,200 RPM's. I would verify the info from the OBDII port see if the numbers are real.

Mine a variation on the same thing I just bent the tail in a 90* towards the inside preventing the ball from sucking in as well. You have to check on it over the years may every other year and you'll find the vibrations will bend your tail down some.

Try this site another family member posted this a while back. http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/?Click=2

Rather common for the injector line to seep for a day or two afterward. If it continues then I would look at the o-rings. So in a week I would clean the head off with some brake clean and compressed air. Then test drive again. look for the moist tubes then deal with those. Could be over / under torqued which is common too.

There is a point I do agree but there is another trick too. Like most of my travels I can leave my low beam on for most of my highway use. The HID are cut low and light the sides of the highway quite well but my eye adjust to the darker upper half where I'm focusing my attention at the breaking line of the HIDs. The driving LED lights give my the focused light in my lane alone so I can see road debris or potholes before I strike them. My old sport headlight was way too narrow and the road edge was really dark and had many close calls with deer jumping out of the ditch and little warning because they are outside the beam path till they hit the pavement. Even with four 100w spotlights, 2 on hi and 2 on lo beam and then 2 bulbs in each sport headlight the road edges were too dark. The bonus I love is the HID's are just a mere 35w a piece. 41% power saving on the alternator. Now just ditching the four 100w lights and going to LED 18w which is a 82% savings in lighting loads.

Might need to replace both batteries if they are that weak. Winter cold demands a lot to start. I would have the batteries tested if they are marginal or failing just replace them both as a pair.

Ummm... That why I've got $1,000 dollars worth of lighting between Morimoto HID's and the PIAA LEDs in the front of the truck now... I can see well ahead of myself now. I'm not worried about dead animals in the road...

Yes, I've done it to a LEO before. He just lowered his light and went around me. (Lucky... Maybe...)

Just got my overhead console backup switch rehooked up today and be nice to have those again on the switch. Next time there is a vehicle following with high beam on I can give him some 100w flood lights back.

We even have the solution for the AC noise here on the site...

Rantings of a madman... (Maniacal laughter...)

I agree with too much timing I would even consider dropping that to 14* being winterized fuel and high cetane playing a role too.

I typically attempt to bring the coolant temp up to about 60-100*F I'm gone. It's now no different than a summer morning start and take off. Way too many wait for heat or the coolant gauge to rise. Like yesterday morning. I timed it right. I fired up pulled the truck out of the garage. Set the 3 CYL high idle. Continued to pack MoparMom and any myself for the day. By the time I was locking the front door and ready to head out in the +10*F weather the truck was warmed up to 150*F still on 3 CYL. Cancelled and rolled on. I never attempt to completely warm up but in my case MoparMom being 81 she thin skinned and can't stand the bitter cold so having just a bit of heat in the cab isn't bad and kept my idle time to minimum.

Correction...

Way too long... 1-3 minutes tops. Typically I would fire up and be rolling fairly soon afterwards. My problem for me is that I'm stuck waiting for @MoparMom down in Ontario, OR in cold at +10*F last night I wasn't going to shut down. I left the engine run, heater on and the exhaust brake on just to keep the pyro up so the engine wouldn't cool. This is enough to absolutely kill my MPG's with 30 minutes of idle time. Idle time without speed is very non-productive.

The only thing STT where much heavier tires I ended up pulling them and selling used because of MPG loss was too great. Also not that good in the snow and ice.

If you lost too many diodes and the output is high ac noise low DC out the the voltage can be dropping below 12.00 volts which will cause the gauge to drop to 8 volts. Better off using a high quality DVM for diagnostics that relying on the crappy cluster.

Since chances of that are very low we can always hook up on the phone then I can explain in depth about the theory.

This is why I giggle when I hear people adding even more cetane booster to already high cetane winterized fuel then whine about how bad the MPGs are all winter long. One of the few reasons I like 2 cycle oil it a natural cetane reducer. It will help with MPGs just slightly.

Limitation of the CANBus. Nothing can be done about it. Cluster runs on the CCD network.

Those darn things are expensive. 299 CAD or about 239.00 USD...

I know those mornings...