Mopar1973Man

Hmmm... I'm out of ideas I gave it my best shot...

1. Test the alternator soon as anything like lock up issues or crazy cruise control is noticed. Don't do any wiring mods but replace the alternator or rebuild with new diode pack. 2. I double stack filters I've got a Donaldson 3um filter on the AirDog 150 and then Fleetguard 10um in the stock can. I can say the 3um passes debris that the Fleetguard 10um picks up. 3. Fuel pressure gauge and never let the fuel pressure drop below 14 PSI. I've got my ISSPro gauge programmed for 13 PSI to trip the low pressure light. 4. All ULSD sold today is 520 HFRR Bosch requires 420 HFRR to meet standards. So I add 128:1 ratio shot of 2 cycle oil to the fuel. This typically will bring the score down to 380 or less. If you have access to biodiesel in the summer that is down to 220 HFRR score which is good but the high cetane of the biodiesel typically is a bit lower in MPG's just depends on the ratio.

Could be the o-rings on the connector tubes. If they are damaged they will weep fuel out. Injector line will spray with force if it leaking. Personally, I try and stay away from Dodge dealer parts and some Cummins parts. An example I called Cummins for 6 connector tubes for my truck and the price was quoted $600 for all six connector tubes. Drop them like a bad habit and called Vulcan and got them for much much less. Dodge dealer isn't much better on stuff I was attempting to replace my exhaust brake vacuum valve and was quoted $1,100 for the valve. I told them to forget I can replace the entire exhaust brake for cheaper. I ended up making a part for the valve is still in service. Just like Cummins thermostats nearly $100 bucks where I've been running NAPA t-stats for years no issues. As for the A/C parts, I sell a lot of NAPA A/C stuff being I've been doing A/C work locally for 7 years now. Rare to see a switch even fail.

No washable filters. I would either only run stock air box or BHAF. I've seen way too many local trucks damaged from washable filter I do not trust any of them.

Kind of like why I got that FCA for sale in the classifieds. I thought the same thing on my particular case. Change the lift pump, FCA and still cold start it would run but after then warmed up the rail pressure would fade till it stalled. The #4 connector tube was just loose enough that cold it sealed good enough that rail pressure built up to start but as everything expanded and warmed up the rail would drop to below 4k and stumble and then die out. Won't start until cold again. once the tube was tight problem disappeared. So hoping, in this case, something simple allows the rail pressure to bleed out in the return rail. Just crazy thought being I did experience this one.

Cold air intake hurt MPG's. Optimal IAT temperatures are between 100-140*F. When the IAT drops below 80*F the timing amps up hard and ends up being over advanced. Then the Edge Juice doesn't give any control of the timing. 4.10 gears you could go up in tires size to bring your gear back down to the 3.73 with like a 33" to 35" tires but remember the front axles don't like the heavier tires.

Being the grid heater light isn't on then the ECM has not detected high return fuel flow. I did have one truck that had a loose connector tube and was pumping the rail pressure into the return rail. After I tighten the connector tube up the truck started and ran great.

Doesn't. I clear 243k miles on a VP44 between Edge Comp and the Quadzilla no harm came to the injection pump. There is 4 things that kill a VP44... 1. Excessive AC noise 2. Poor filtration of the fuel. 3. Low fuel pressure. 4. Low lubricity of the fuel.

I'm currently running the 60/60/12 HX35/40 hybrid and spools great with +75HP injectors and a Quadzila Adrenaline.

As for the pressure switch for the air conditioning I would suggest just going to a local NAPA and picking it up for chep at around $20 dollars. Most all auto parts stores will have the A/C switch. The lo pressure is on the accumulator can at the firewall this one is what turns on the system but be sure there is pressure in the system and you don't have a leak before changing this switch. I've seen that a few times in the past people blame the switch when there is no freon in the system to trigger the switch on. High pressure cut out is a safety switch to stop the compressure if the pressure gets too high. Both switches are wired in series so both switches have to have zero ohms for the compressor to start. As for the injector line I would call DAP and ask one of them if they can get the injector line for you. Another place would be look up a Cummins dealer but you know the prices might be a bit high.

Easiest way to track it down is to get a cooling system tester and pressurize the system cold. Leave the pressure on the engine for extended period of time then as it weeps it will leave a wet trail to the source of the leak. Like on my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 had the same problem you could smell the coolant under the hood. Never dripped on the floor but if you pressurized the system it started dripping on the floor and left a wet trail to the source which in my case was the passenger side intake gasket was shot from low pH coolant that worked a pin hole in the gasket. Did a manifold gasket kit and no longer an issue.

IAT temperature is key. If the IAT is <32*F it will trigger 6 CYL mode. If the IAT is <15*F then 3 CYL will start. Remember the IAT measure is while grid heaters are active so it needs to be much colder and the truck be parked outside to trigger 3CYL mode. High idle will self cancel at 170*F of coolant. It's capable of restarting if the coolant falls below 140*F again then high idle with restart in the last mode of operation. P0113 is not a short but a open on the signal or ground lead. If the ECM detecting high volt code that is a open lead problem or broken wire. Typically that would be detected when you measure ohms from ECM to IAT plug it would show up as a open lead or infinite ohms.

My thought's exactly. 281k on possible stock injectors is rather excessive. Typically replacements are suggested at 100-150k miles on average. Some people get away with more mileage but it's not safe. I've got to ask has the grid heater light been staying on after you start?

I've got a local guy with twin turbos and 24V truck on 37" tires running 4.11 gear and it's a screaming machine. Final ratio that is close to 3.55 to 3.73 ratio will net the best overall highway performance. The engine will spool much faster and the efficiency will be much better.

I'll experiment with things and see if I can find more clues.

Change you gearing in your axles and that truck will fly. I'm not joking. Your tires are way too big for 3.55 gearing and that putting you way up at like 3.05 final ratio. That is more damaging to the driveline that anything.

One Bluetooth is iQuad the second Bluetooth in my OBDLink LX. As for the iQuad it still possibly going but the screen for the iQuad is black. no display at all. Switch to another app its fine but come back to the iQuad it just black no gauges nothing just black. Closes normally and you have to restart several times to get the app to hook. Lot of the attempt it just says there no connection. Then it quits and never tries again so you close and restart. That problem never left and it weird. I'll keep an eye on that and see if there is some more clues.

Hmmm... I've never really paid attention to call length. I know my LG G5 is set for 1 minute to screen blackout.

7 x 0.010 might need just a bit less timing compared to 7 x 0.012 injector. Surely will take more timing than my 7 x 0.0085. This is the tough part of figuring this out. There is no exact math formula or spreadsheet like common rail guys use. I've found if you think that is good power start inching back and seeing if the power is gained or lost. If you have an app like Palmer Performance that does 0 to 60 MPH times to can verify your numbers because as you get closer to good timing your 0 to 60 MPH times will decrease.

Allow the screen to time out and blackout then end the call and open the iQuad using the Square to switch task.

Driving 250 miles per day (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) so to keep @MoparMom alive with dialysis treatments. I would still do the valve lash and then shot of 2 cycle oil in the tank and see what you get will noise levels I bet they drop off quick.

I think the timing curve is too steep. You might on the edge of negative torque and not getting the power on the upper end. I would start pulling down timing and retesting I bet the power comes on better. It's hard to explain in text what proper timing is like. Like my cruise timing has a very very light injector rattle. The performance side is nearly silent but there is a faint injector rattle. I really do think you are way too high on the timing curve.

I've heard strange tales where the VIN number mismatch will make a mess out of some trucks and others seem to allow crossed breeding.

I've tried the RV275's, +50 HP and now the +75 HP. Now that I've reached 21 MPG with winter conditions and winter fuel I'm fairly happy with my setup. I should be able to reach higher come summer time.