Mopar1973Man

Been there done that many times...

More you lean towards retard the easier it is to build power again. My 1,500 to 2,000 range dives of in timing rather quick to allow the timing to retard enough to build boost pressure and power again. At 2,000 RPM (70 MPH) I'm at 19* of timing.

Better view for people.

More like a semi-soft plastic of some sort. But its still very stiff material.

Ive got a sintered stone in my snubber.

Snubbers from ISSPro work awesome. No issues here.

Should be squirting quite a bit. You need 4500 PSI to start the engine.

The easiest way to chase leaks is on a cold dry engine. Pump up the coolant system with 16-18 PSI of pressure and watch for the coolant to flow. Flow the coolant trail back ot the source of the leak.

The full Quadzilla only uses the high idle below your set coolant temperature or if you set level 0. Then the high idle becomes active.

Cummins only uses a rubber o-ring for sealing the thermostat. There is the little bypass hose on top there double check it. Check for cracks in the block and if you have a 53 block which are known to crack on the passenger side. There is the heater hose on the passenger side that might be leaking too.

No. Just a RPM governor. Security key fob could. There is an auto shutdown relay but I've never heard of anyone getting the conditions to cause it to shut down and prevent startup.

Yep. Tune is working properly. Smoke is a sign of way too much fuel not enough boost.

Personally... Anyone that tunes a truck just to "Roll Coal" or "Blow Smoke" in my mind is just out to abuse the truck. Basically, all your doing it flooding the cylinder with way too much fuel the engine can't burn it all. Your wasting fuel and adding a huge dose of carbon to the engine oil which does wonders for all the bearings and moving parts as it increases wear. EPA on the other hand, created all these goofy things like EGR, EGR coolers, DPF, Urea (DEF fluid), regen cycle, etc. Just to attempt to clean up the diesel trucks. Now you got people deleting the emissions equipment and taking risk with getting busted for a Federal crime. My truck on my Economy tune is pretty much smokeless. My performance tune has a bit a smoke just as a launch but clears up to just a grey haze as I'm heading for 80-90 MPH blowing the doors off the smoking Ford truck I just passed...

Injectors wore out? Pop pressures low or pissy?

Depends on the air leak. Suction side leaks never drip and continuously pull air into the system all the time your driving. As for my comment above. Like I said find two different test that could possibly pass or fail the device you think might be failing. This way you get a double fail then you know you not spending money needlessly on a guess.

Typically I work on a two smoking gun rule. I try to find two different test that could possibly fail the device. Basically, double checking your work.

Very very rare to see anyone replace engine mounts on these engines.

Samsung has issues with importing tunes. @Quadzilla Power he should know more on this...

I don't think it will matter on the 2WD or 4WD being the module that watch for that is the ABS module. I'm pretty sure the ECM doesn't care.

@GSP7 I've got to ask are you still in Idaho?

From back in the past archive...

P1693 code just means there is more error codes present on the other module. Use OBDII code reader to pull all the codes and report back with the error codes.

Two words that most here will not react too... "Smoke Tunes" Nope, you are not going to find any here. Everyone is economy minded and not building tune for blowing excessive amounts of smoke.

Ask Eric for a relay power supplied lead. If the pump motor for some reason short out or get high load amperage it will wipe out the ECM. Highly suggest you change that over to protect your ECM from damage.

@leety I've got to ask does that Raptor pump plug directly into the ECM or did it come with a power relay?