Mopar1973Man

Again why I'm listing here hopefully @Quadzilla Power or @Quadzilla_Stephen see it. Quadzilla now seen it...

If you take care of the end you can have old cables that are new. Like I'm still running factory battery cables and never had to clean them once. They never corroded only removed the cables maybe a handful of times. But i'll have 20 year old battery cables that are absolutely fine. I'll ask a question. What is the only two materials that can hold sulphuric acid? A: Glass and Plastic. Q: What is plastic made from? A: Oil. So if you keep your teminal damp with engine oil they will never corrode. As for grease or terminal sprays are OK but also messy and could stain clothing. Where engine oil typically leave a light coating and terminal can't oxidize.

Could someone post a picture of this pump I'm curious about what it looks like?

Again proper maintenance does wonders my hinges are still tight and no alignment issues. The only thing my driver side door got hyper extended on time when the wind snatched the door out of my hand and whipped it open. I've had to do some creative readjustments to get that door lined up again.

ECT has a effect on the oil pressure reading when colder. But comparing the actual oil pressure, CCD network message and the cluster the number are fairly correct till the engine is cold. Then the oil pressure reads high when the ECT is fooled even though the oil pressure is actually lower. Normal run though it good enough for indication of pressure.

I wonder if the contact is shot on the starter. That would produce the Bendix popping out for the flywheel but not power for the starter motor to turn the flywheel. Welcome to the site. Ask plenty of questions. We'll all try to help you out.

Correct... For your OBDII people that is 100% engine load. Engine load equal fueling message just converted from 0 - 4095 to a percentage.

Very bad idea. Tricking the MAP sensor is not good. This trick was possible back with the Edge Comp but unplugging the MAP sensor but leave the ECM hooked to the Edge Comp. The boost fooler would produce a signal that was MAX boost. This produce extremely poor performance. Very smokey and slow to accelerate. You'd be better off just getting a Quadzilla and controlling the fuel map the way you want instead of tricking the ECM and MAP sensor which give poor control of fuel to boost. I've found over the year that producing a clean tune you can produce way more power and torque than having a dirty tuner or attempting to trick the truck into doing something you shouldn't.

Won't work. There are TDC and speed signal by the engine required for different things. When the tach signal drops the ECM gives up on the idle functions and hands it off to the VP44 to attempt to limp mode home since the VP4 has its own tone ring and TDC sense. Other functions like high idle, cruise control and other PCM like transmission control need that tach signal to work right. So putting a external tach gauge on will let you see RPM but the rest of the truck will malfunction and behave weirdly without tach signal.

Yes and no. 3 CYL cannot be held. It will self-cancel after coolant reaches 170 or so. 6 CYL can be held if the selector is left in the 6 CYL position. If you start the mode and select MPG or OFF it will self-cancel as well. The 6CYL mode was set up as a locked mode for people that need high idle for other purposes like jump-starting a vehicle for example. There are a few bonuses to Quadzilla high idle as well. If it set up you can enable it by just selecting level 0 and the high idle will engage as soon the timer runs out. Where with M73M high idle the timer is much longer and always that possible chance of the selecting the mode might pick up 3 CYL because the ECM picked up -40*F or the small period of time where the switch broke contact. There are a few problems with Quadzila too. I've found it does not detect road speed so a manual transmission could place it in gear and idle along with high idle still engaged. This should disable the high idle on Quadzilla just like it does on the factory high idle. (BUG!). Throttle change is very sudden jump to 1,200 RPM it needs to be ramped up slower it creates a violent thump are it jumps to RPM's. (BUG!)

Untapped no matter what setting it's only CANBus fueled and limited to 65 HP.

There is an article in the database explaining the cam / crank sensor and about change over. Soon as I get home I can get the link. On the road right now.

In my mind the high pop pressure is affecting the starting point of injection. This can be corrected by adding maybe an extra degree of timing.

Once long time ago. Still to this day the CCD network tool, mechanical gauge, and dash cluster all appear to agree. Only time the pressure is questionable during the use of my high idle switch.

Rather tough for any video work till I get past winter time. Like today I'm expecting crappy numbers being running 4WD and slush covered highway from home to Weiser, ID. Then the multiple times passing scared people crawling at 25 to 35 MPH. Then set my cruise at 65 MPH. 235's sure do bite the highway good.

All good... Im being daring and trying different idea to improve MPG numbers being the amount of travel I do.

Crazy idea... I'm reaching here... How about alternator test for AC noise and possible ECM issues because of AC noise damage? Yes you can pull the alternator and have it tested but it might give a clue to if the ECM possible was damaged by excessive AC noise. I've now had one report that proves that AC noise is possible on newer trucks.

I've learned a lot so far. Light Throttle Load Limit (Percent) - Mopar1973Man Suggested Setting 25% This value should be built around the 65 MPH speed on flat ground. That is roughly 1,900 RPM for most stock configured trucks with normal tire sizes. If you have to reach above 30% you need to look into reducing some of your rolling resistance. Setting above 30% typically will reduce MPG and efficiency timing should not be up in cruise mode with that high if engine load. If you are capable of setting below 25% is even better. You do not want to be able to hold cruise solid above 65 MPH it should flip-flop in and out of cruise even at 80 MPH. Just for point of reference 65 MPH can hold roughly 20-22% solid on flat ground. Max Load Timing Offset This value is how much retarding you start from and lead up to your performance timing. At first, this seemed counterproductive but actually its need to build power are you transition from cruise to power mode. This really does shine when your rolling along flat ground and start to climb a hill. This value like in my case is 2* so there is a 2* ramp up from low load to set timing of the RPM band. For example my 2K band is 17* so I'm going to have roughly a 2* drop in timing just as I drop cruise timing which I see roughly 15* as the load increase from there that amount of retarding will taper off to ZERO. This really does help a bunch with building boost and power. Another example of this setting at 80 MPH cruise timing is ~21* and then it drops out of cruise to performance timing and drops to ~18* this is at 2,300 RPM and my 2,500 RPM setting is 20* on the Quadzilla.Quadzilla calls for a default setting of 3 but understanding the lower the number the higher you stay in timing. I'll continue to suggest that "If in doubt retard it out...". Better chances of hitting the mark leaning towards retard than advanced. Remember the more to add retard to the timing the more you bring the peak of the torque curve back down into the lower RPM range again. So the only thing I've changed since post the last tune file is I changed my Max Load Timing Offset from 1* to 2* which really helped the low-end response at 55 MPH and slower speeds. Engine Load Vs. Timing When your building of your daily or efficiency tune and your engine load is increasing and kicking you out of cruise more often then you have gone the wrong direction. Anytime an adjustment increases engine load you now made the tune that much more inefficient. Engine load and Quadzilla Fuel number are the same. Basically, it's just the Fuel number converted to 0 to 100% value. So if your cruising engine load number is higher than 25% you basically above 1,023 Quadzilla fuel value. The whole secret is to keep your engine load as low as possible for efficiency designed tunes. Suggestion by me is to only change one value at a time and test drive that value for few tanks of fuel. Being I fill every trip back and forth to Ontario, OR I can assess my change over a single week and determine if the change was good or bad. So if you change to many values are once or make to big of a change you can be fighting poor efficiency for a very long time. What I needed was a method of being able to see if the change I made where good or bad without having to drive a tank of fuel through. There is way to many variables that will impact MPG and skew your tuning data. Like for me extended idle times, warm up, weather, road conditions, etc. So This where I figure out the Engine Load vs tuning.

I've got to add to this... Yes, it is possible to use the Quadzilla Adrenaline high idle with factory high idle enabled. The point is only one must be used at a time. Right now my weather is super mild and I've got my Quadzilla setup to 30-second delay and 140*F warm up. This is so much better being the high idle time is greatly shorten and way less fuel used vs. 3 CYL or even 6CYL going to 170*F. So I've taken advantage of the Quadzilla high idle and my exhaust brake. My warm-up time is much shorter now and I'm off and rolling shortly after the 140*F mark typically. Again the key point here is do not use or enable the Quadzilla high idle if you expect temperatures cold enough to trip the factory high idle. I'm very capable of using the features of the Quadzilla Adrenaline in mild weather and its working just fine.

Comparing to pressure drop and media color its not. I've cut open filters at 15k miles, 30k miles and 60k miles. 15k is a waste both filters look brand new out of the box, 30k miles the filter are very very lightly discolored still a waste. 60k miles you now have a good color change of the media still no pressure drop. here is 15k miles. This is absolute waste changing this early... ZERO pressure change. Even my last filter change was at 60k miles and zero pressure drop. Like both water separator I checked at 60k miles and zero water found in my capture container.

Change both filters at 60k miles. Normally don't touch the water separator on the AirDog. I double check the contents of the stock filter at 60k but always water free.

I'm extremely pleased with this tune. Made my run from Ontario, OR to home then back to Boise, ID. This trip I stayed to speed limit most of the time. This includes interstate travel to 80 MPH. 298 miles and 15.009 gallons netted 19.85 MPG. At 80 MPH timing is at 21* for cruise and performance timing should be 18* @ 2300 RPM. My engine load floated back and forth 22 to 30% at 80 MPH. I'm loving this tune in the 2,000 bracket. I need to tweak the lower band just a bit.

Use a straight road and cover each light with a blanket or your jacket and recheck you'll see which light is tweaked. Once you figure that out you might have to shim or something to gain the right angle again.

Not all. As long as you never had any reflashes done the oil pressure is still a gauge. Mine still shows true pressure. I know that your right and if thee ECM been flash to the newest version then yes the gauge is switch.