Mopar1973Man

OEM bulbs.

If you have vehicle inspections or smogging make sure to leave that switch on and reset the codes. ECM can sense the trigger wire failures hence the P0380 and P0382 code.

Still running NAPA 190*F thermostats without any issue...

I'm also assuming you're using the rubber o-ring from the stock style thermostat on the new one right?

You can't alter the grid heater trigger (smaller) wires only the power supply wires.

Stant 13479 appears to be an older Dodge 195*F thermostat. http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=48793&jsn=12

The whole idea of plugging is overhyped... So everyone is plugging in there trucks while at home. Then drive to work and most don't get the privilege of plugging in at work. Then go to places like ski resorts where the parking lot is filled will vehicles sitting all day or longer without being plugged in. Like last year I was working with a local gent to move cows and hay for the winter. Several times my truck was left behind in a pasture in minus weather for hours while we ran other equipment or vehicles. Again no place to plug in. After realizing this I gave up plugging in all together. No matter my cord for my block heater is also damaged and no longer functional. I still love driving past the logging company lot and seeing guys firing up logging trucks with minus weather and never see a block heater.

Double check and verify. Set all the sublevels the same. This will rule out any Edge software bugs.

Means that you'll be able ot data log what the tool is doing and gain more function on your tool.

So there is a bit of truth to the product. Is it worth the money for such little gains?

I've seen this on 3rd Gens where the fan clutch doesn't lock and the condenser gets extremely hot and the hi side pressure are reaching 400-450 PSI and then purges excessive pressure out the back of the compressor. This can happen on a 2nd Gen truck if the condenser is plugged up and the air isn't flowing well through the radiator and condenser. I've seen this happen when people slide cardboard in between the condenser on the radiator attempting to build heat then run the defrosters and get the same blow off because the condenser can't waste the heat. Another one that will produce the same problem is excessive oil charge from using Quick Cans of freon with the little gauge and hose. Those happen to have a shot of oil in the can and if you use these to often the system will be over loaded with oil causing the same blow off. So everyone is right take the time and hook up a set of gauges. I would consider changing the orifice tube its cheap. It could be the filter is plugged up.

Interesting...

Now double check the sublevel for each main level. Edge has a bug that levels 4 and 5 tend to bleed the sublevel. So for example if you have 4x1 and 5x5 it will be a dog. If you set 4x5 and 5x1 it will be a smokey pig. Best way to do it is to set all subevels the same this bug will disappear.

If I could find my old Edge Comp manual which I think is long gone those where the setting listed in the manual. As for how they figured those setting and so forth I'm not sure but just reposting what my manual had. As for the new manual they don't even list the sublevels any longer. Do even explain how they work other than less responsive and most responsive.

Hmmm... If the weather permits tonight I can go down to dark canyon road and shoot a few pictures. I'll use my good camera for this. This is something I really do like about the Retro Shop light I got. After they build them they bench test them and aim for you so it bolt on type of thing. Where doing it yourself you have to go through the whole aiming process. @Dieselfuture I would say find an empty road like you did stop right in the road. Then cover one headlight with your jacket or blanket. Adjust the first light for left to right. Then switch and do the other light for left to right. Now start over and adjust for you up and down then switch again do the same for the other light. Do all adjustment on the lo beam setting.

You pay for the quality that is for sure. Once you've seen the performance of the Morimoto HID's compared to your Glass Sealed Beams on your 81 Chevy you think those are dim and very limited. I need to pack my good camera along for a ride home some night. It's very impressive to see the amount of light width wise as well as distance wise on HID's compared to stock OEM headlights. Matter of fact yesterday in Ontario, OR I had a guy follow me into the Albertson Parking lot because I was behind him and he noticed for an old Dodge those where bright headlights. So he stopped me and we talked for awhile and he wants to install a set in his car (Nissan? Ricer?) Needless to say he was very impressed with the quality of the light and the precise cutoff pattern. He's got stock halogen OEM vs mine side by side his pattern could be seen very well. Mine stood out like a sore thumb. Nice part is my pattern typically is below the glass level of most cars.

Like there is an ad I keep seeing which is "Steel Seal". It a head gasket repair in a bottle. They claim it will fix any coolant jacket leak into the combustion chamber. The funny part read around you'll find pictures of the mechanics replacing head gasket because it plugged up the coolant passages. There was a time of oil additives that claim that an engine can run without oil. etc. The videos look impressive one thing they never do is open back up the engine and measure all the parts like pistons, bearings, crank, etc for changes either improvement or change of wear. Now you'll have my attention. Since now of these products have any material proof from a 3rd party testing lab I'm not going to waste my time with a fix in a bottle. https://www.restoreusa.com/index.php

Remember gang Edge Juice has main and sublevel tuning. So if the main level is on 3 what was the sublevel? 1-3 sublevel will defuel to a set boost pressure to clean up smoke. SUBLEVEL 1 - 33% of stock fuel till 20 PSI boost 2 - 50% of stock fuel till 15 PSI of boost 3 - 67% of stock fuel till 10 PSI of boost 4 - Some extra fuel at low boost 5 - Full fuel at 0 PSI boost

I'm not a believer in oil additive products. Do some research on the products. There is a lot of fixes in a bottle and rarely do any of them do as advertised.

Nope mine both line up the step on the yellow line. It only at short distance the step separates.

At least you've done your homework. I would say give it a shot. Be careful.

Bilstein shocks are bit pricey but I believe they are worth the price. For what I know of the Chevy front suspension they are very involved with the CV axles up front. Spring compressors can be very dangerous if not used properly. A friend of mine use to tie wire the as well so they didn't explode if the compressor slipped. I would use a ratchet straps to insure your safety. That being said I'm not sure how leveling kits impact suspension geometry on these trucks so you might ask around before making a mistake that might increase suspension wear.

When you hook up with me I'll double check your setup.

No. Not exactly. The only code for a failed ECM is P0606. Now you have to be smart enough to diagnose the other failures like internal circuit failures. There is no tool capable of diagnosing those issues.

Timer based on both battery temperature and IAT temperature. So it possible to get grid heaters after starting even though the coolant is greater than 190F and IAT is greater than 60F. Battery temperature can and will impact grid heater usage.