Mopar1973Man

Not a bad idea... I would measure out the PEX and stuff 14/4 trailer wire in the PEX first then run it through the frame with the bed off. Of course do this on the drivers side away from the hot exhaust.

I wouldn't make a run all the way to the front again for just battery power being there is a 10 AWG line already back there for the trailer power. It's got a 40 AMP fuse already too. So my reverse light are on a relay tucked in the left side tail light. Powered by the trailer power feed. Triggered by the reverse light lead. Now your wiring is much simpler and less voltage loss from making a long run.

You might look at my mod... Two 100 watt aircraft landing lights. Then I tapped in the reverse switch so that light are automatically on with reverse or manual on a switch.

Exactly... If there is any metallics in the grease your screwed...

If there is graphite in the grease it will mess with the front sensors. I had to clean mine out of grease to get it to quit. What happens is the speed sensors can sense the gap any longer and it will create a strange sine wave the computer can't use. Worse case is you get to replace the front bearings again. There is no way to wash that grease out without messing up the bearings. This is one of the reasons I don't like this suggestion.

Be aware we have a Classified Ad area here on the site now. https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/

Yeah I've seen the old style push down and twist locks. Hmmm... Just looking at the two small pictures the bolt pattern looks to be the same for the lid. Be careful the lids are 180* from each other.

You are Welcome. I'm glad you got it! Install is rather fast for the electrical being the only one wire to go into the dash. The rest is under the hood. EGT probe will take time to drill, tap, and install if you don't have a hole already.

I've been just unplugging mine and flashing just like Nick...

Never had to do anything fancy. Even after my system stand dry for days. Just a mayo jar and jump in the seat and pump the pedal slowly. Never needed the ABS bleeder software, never needed to mess with the combination valve. None of that stuff. Be aware the excess travel is most likely the ABS module running a dumping mode where it dumping pressure to prevent lock up. Even though the ABS light is not on the ABS unit is attempting to resolve a speed issue. This is why I said you need to be able to see all 3 speed sensor in real time. Like my truck was fine on all 3 sensors above 30 MPH drop below 30 MPH the right front axle sensor was dropping to ZERO so if I touched the brakes the truck jump to right and back pumped the pedal for a few second preventing you from stopping then ABS light pops then pedal was normal again. Being the ABS module only has 3 speed sensors you need to be able to watch them in real time then the problem will pop out. This is why I got a classified ad for used ABS sensors... https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/item/13-front-axle-abs-sensors/

You need a live ABS tool and be able to watch the 3 speed sensors in real time. Being able to see real time data from the ABS module is key to finding out whats going on. Like mine was the tone wheel problem. I see you've replaced them. You might contact @Chris O. and ask him about the ABS code he might shed some light on it. As for bleeding brake system, I've never had to do anything special I use a mayo jar with a piece of vinyl tubing routed into the jar. I do it solo with no partner...

That's why I suggesting looking to get a newer style lever. That a lot of cash for changing out a shift fork cover and the trouble of just removing the entire transmission just for a shift lever... Wow. Could you give me a picture of what you are working with? I would like to see what you trying to work with.

That's a problem I'm going to have to say most likely not. As for changing the shift fork lid it might be possible but is it worth it to pull the entire transmission just for a shift lever? Is there a newer version of what you want that you can buy that has the four bolt tower?

Ahhh... You want to know if the shift lever itself will screw on. As far as what I've seen the towers seem to be all the same thread.

So you just want the shift knob am I correct?

That's a good one. Ummm... Being you dealing with a NV5600 shift handle I'm not sure. Why the need for the NV5600 shift handle?

A friend of mine that owns a Chevy truck as well found out that warm intake air does help in increasing the MPG's. If I'm not mistaken he bought a second air filter box and modified so it was pulling warm air from under the hood for winter operation and working really good.

You can post them up on the site Classified Ads... https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/

Still even untapped you gain the control of better fueling curve custom fitted to your needs. Then you can set your own timing curve that fits your driving style. That is the problem with all the older boxed tuners like Edge. You basically took the tune they build and had to be happy with it. Quadzilla you can still adjust both the timing and fuel curves for just the CANBus. I'm still currently untapped on my VP44 and running +75HP 7x0.0085 injectors.

Like a long ago Big O Tires had a wonderful MT series tire. This tire is no longer made. In the beginning the tire compound was rather on the hard side and worked awesome for off road use. Then later on back in 1999 or 2000 if I remember right the tread pattern changed some and the compound got much softer and the tires were barely lasting 18k to 25 k miles and being wiped out. This is what that same tire changed into and wear quality is very poor. Even going back more back in motorcycle days we would try and get R compound tires for racing on the streets but the tires would wear away really quick but were very sticky tire and great for cornering. Then when I move on to cruiser motorcycles like the Goldwing I was attempting to get away from soft compound tires and something harder so the tires lasted longer.

Articles > 24V > Engine > Electrical

Easy way to test relays is take a known good relay like the horn which is a smaller relay and swap it with what is questionable if the problem goes away then the relay failed. Like two years ago I lost my A/C relay I swapped it with a known good relay and A/C started working. The next town I came across I stopped in just purchased a new relay.

You might get ahold of @pepsi71ocean and have that added to his article.

You DVM isn't sensitive enough. You need a DVM with a AC scale as low as 2V or 200mV to be able to see the ripple. Regulation of the alternator doesn't matter its the output that comes out of the diodes we are measuring.

Might want to post that stuff up in our Classified Ad area. https://mopar1973man.com/classifieds/ This isn't the old classified forum. It a whole new system.