Mopar1973Man

Well, let's see what happens with time. If that occurred then the MAP sensor is working.

Just noticed there is a different head on the block. The first gen head has a fuel filter boss on the bottom of the intake manifold. I'm assuming this is a later series 94-98 head.

You might take a peek at my two posts...

Resetting will most likely not fix the problem. The APPS reset just programs the span from low volt to high volt of the sensor. What controls the canceling in the APPS IVS (Idle Validation Switches). On the stock APPS the IVS is controlled by a logic circuit which toggles the idle validation switches when voltage rises or falls below the stated voltage on the tag. So I'm going to bet most likely the sensor is getting tired.

The block is all set up wrong for our purpose. Lift pump hole is forward. No vacuum pump and power steering pump. Oil fill hole is in the #1 valve cover insted of the gear case like it should be. It is a VE pump for sure with no high pressure lines but it also appears to be a non-stand throttle maybe an agriculture version? Intake horn should be one set of hole forward if I'm not mistaken.

Did you adjust the APPS sensor for voltage before? I'm just checking some people do APPS sensor adjustments attempting to resolve other issues and end up creating a new issue because the voltage adjustment should never be made.

I always re-bleed a seal unit way too many time have I seen a sealed unit with air in the system.

Stock hydros or aftermarket? Did you bleed the hydro before installing?

Not releasing typically is a hydro problem unless the throw out bearing is worn or the pressure plate fingers are damaged.

Any security function on the truck? Wait to Start light coming on instantly with the key or not? Any error codes present?

Yeah but you missing half of the science. Now you've increased your rolling resistance and rotational mass. Rolling resistance increase with the larger contact patch of wider tires also the more the tread becomes aggressive the more this will increase as well. Rotational mass just the pure weight of the tire and wheel will add to this. So as you look at true racing the tires are always racing slicks being smooth tire face has the LEAST amount of rolling resistance also notice the front tire are typically super narrow to reduce more rolling resistance. Then all racing slicks typically are in the 20-30 pound range this is to keep rotational mass down and acceleration is much faster. This all turn into efficiency. I know we can't run racing slicks on the street and have a traction tire for road condtions and weather conditions. What I'm trying to get at is don't fall into the "Gotta Look Cool" group that mounts on oversized tires then whines about front suspension failures and MPG just fell in the toilet. Consider what your doing and do you really need the wider tires for floatation for crossing muddy fields and true offroad travel.

Fan shouldn't lock till the radiator temperature reaches about 220*F so you'll be fine.

There you go. You can use a 200*F thermostat and there are no issues. Thank you @pepsi71ocean http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=5937264&cc=1445029&jsn=432

Basically only sees TDC #1 that's all being it only a single tooth tone wheel..

That I've seen happen too... Where welding together and it turns into a warped mess. Might be... But who am I to judge I'm a bird crap welder anyways... Maybe that's why my stuff breaks easy...

Diesel engine needs compression and heat to fire cold diesel in cold air. So 180*F is not suggested at all because the efficiency falls off. 190*F is OEM and does fine. 200*F could increase efficiency if the IAT rises aiding in ignition quality in cold weather. Colder the air and block thee long it takes for the fuel to ignite.

No. Yes. 24V will change timing based on IAT temperature so if you can get it to rise slightly the timing wil retard a bit and MPG's will climb.

190*F is OEM you should be able to get 160*F air out of the vent on a -30*F day. 200*F will run about 198-200*F coolant temp and IAT temperature will be a bit higher.

I look at guy like @cajflynn that past the 1 million mile mark on Delo 15w-40 engine oil and fleetguard oil filters and changed oil every 20k miles. Still he made it past the 1.3 million mile mark before wrecking the truck in a traffic accident. Then there is @dorkweed that went over 84k miles on a single oil change with a MotorGuard bypass filter. The oil he was using was Walmart SuperTech 15w-40 and all he was doing is changing filters, taking a test sample at 7k miles and topping off the crankcase. I don't worry about oil either...

Batteries resist charge when cold. So the battery temperature sensor under the driver side battery detects the battery temperature and adjust the charging rate for the battery temperature. So on a cold morning, you could see as high as 14.8 volts DC and on a hot summers day you could see as low as 13.2 volts DC. This is all very normal. This is one of the reasons why the battery lifespan on our trucks is much higher like average of 10 years typically.

When there is so many hotshot driver's running 1 million miles without a bypass and petroleum oils. Not going to gain anything personally...

You can buy 200 degree thermostat for a 6.7L and it does fit. Talk to @pepsi71ocean he's running a 200 thermostat.

This might be true but the strength of the bump will not be as strong. Less cuts and welding is going to produce a stronger bumper. But what am I say the OEM bumper is so weak you can dent it just pushing firewood rounds out of the bed.

The injection pump is part of the block. You have to tear down the engine to repair the injection pump or time it. I've worked on a smaller 23 HP Kubota a few years ago and seen how they are built very strangely. The one I tore down failed because the owner didn't know what an air filter was. Piston rings were gone and cylinders needed to be sleeved. Maintenance is key ot longevity for these little engines. So this picture you can see the empty block and the injection pump case on the side which you get to build yourself and time.

It's a matter of not letting the truck idling for long periods with grid heater running. Either force high idle 6 cylinder or reduce the electrical loads as in disconnect the grid heaters. So if you have 6 cylinder high idle going your producing more air flow from the alternator fan also reducing strain of the idle loaded alternator. Your idea with the hose won't do nothing. Being after you reach 20 MPH grid heaters are disabled. Also there is plenty of cool air by then. This why I start and get rolling as quickly as possible. Reduce idle time or use high idle 6 cylinder.