Mopar1973Man

Yes. It could be sold together or separate as well. I just need to source out the supplier and get some ordered. Most auto part stores do not sell any rebuild kits that I've found. They want you to buy the full alternator.

I've got to say thank you @IBMobile for producing the article for the diode replacement.

Should have access now being I've just approved the article...

There are two bearings and a brush kit too. The problem is the bearings have to be pressed off and the new ones pressed on.

I've done the same thing... Brand new sensors make it 3 sets, ABS rebuilt by Module Masters in Moscow, ID. Then tested every wire 20 times. Reshimed the sensors at least 12 times. Changed the unit bearings and lights when off in 10 feet never came back on. Fixed. The tool that got my answer is the CCD Network tool I could see the right sensor dropping to zero at about 30 MPH. Changed the sensor and still doing it... Change the bearing.. fixed.

Tone ring is damaged in one of the front hubs. I had them problem and after replacing both of the unit bearings the lights are out.

Yes changing out the diodes pack repairs most AC noise problems. There are other issues like bad brushes and other things that could cause the issue. Denso alternators tend to look smaller than the Bosch as far as I know Denso also have the replaceable diodes.

No. It's easy just pull the back cover off and the diodes are held in place with Phillips screws. While your there you can change the brushes too.

Talk to @dripley he's done the dash top replacement.

Here you go...

Too much traffic on the bus. So... What I would do is start the truck with just the Edge Juice plugged in leave it idle for few minutes to settle down then plug in the ScanGauge II and it should hook up then.

Be aware EPA laws are changing. You have to install a 2007 or later engine in a 2007 body. Check with your local laws like I got this tid bit from a friend in Boise area. Too many people are cheating EPA laws by yanking out the smogged engines and retro fitting older engines so the laws might be changing nation wide soon. Be aware.

I'm kind of the same way I hate to spend large amount of money on parts I'm not certain of. I tend to come here and lean on the guys for assistance and helping me pick the right stuff. The neat part is we all learn for each other experiences and know what works and what doesn't work.

We've got the Timbo's APPS here...

I suggest you talk to @Dynamic he's our site transmission guru here. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/173-dynamic-transmissions/

Listen to these guys they know their stuff. Like myself I'm running a 60/60/12 (HX35/40 Hybrid) for the reason of keeping my exhaust brake. I would gladly jump up to a larger turbo if I had the funds for an inline PacBrake. Just for info value the stock HX35W is a 54/60/12... Just remember the bigger the HP/TQ goals are the lower the longevity and reliability is going to be.

You also have to remember that the larger the compressor side gets the more load you putting back on your lever.

I should have a horrid time steering? Nope. 235/85 R16... 235/85 R16 (235mm / 199.75mm) (9.25" / 7.86") - 31.72" tall 265/75 R16 (265mm / 198.75mm) (10.43" / 7.82") - 31.64" tall 295/70 R17 (295mm / 206.5mm) (11.61" / 8.12") - 33.24" tall Could have a lot to do with your tire pressure in the front axle. I run 60 PSI in the front and 40 PSI in the rear. I'm basing my tire pressure on axle weight. I've bolded the stock tire size and you can see the difference in metric and inches both. I'vee just scaled my truck 3 days ago... My 235's are rated for 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI. Front Axle (4,480 / 2) = 2,240 / 3,042 = 0.73 x 80 = 58.90 PSI Rear Axle (2,980 / 2) = 1,490 / 3042 = 0.48 x 80 = 39.18 PSI

295mm wide, 70% is height... So your 30mm wider then stock. 206.5 mm tall from the wheel. 265mm wide, 75% height or 198.75mm. so as you can see your a bit taller but much wider.

I could get you a Quadzilla through the site. I've just become a vendor for Quadzilla products. I'm going to try and get things setup soon for the store. But I can still sell you a Quadzilla.

Dumb idea... Unplug the APPS then run the rest again. I know it will throw an error code and trip the CEL but you'll know if the APPS is the cause. It should default to idle mode and then the high idle should engage. Crazy idea but it might work.

I've got to upload my Edge Comp look a like tune. I'm pleased with the performance and MPG is nearly the same as my old Edge Comp.

Well I'm in Ontario, OR on a regular basis so you could hook up with me. (208) 315-1470 cell You can catch me in Ontario every Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday.

He never even changed the MAP sensor. It's possible the data from the sensor is too low and not reporting real boost. It could be a boost fooler problem of the Edge Juice. This boost fooler failure does happen...

Well if you hook up with me I could program your Speedometer permanently without the Smarty locked VIN problem. I've got a CCD Network tool that allows for ABS speed adjustments. You might want to give me a call I'll be more than willing to do this for ya.